check out these power hammer plans

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Dec 4, 2001
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found this website with an awsome home made power hammer. What do you guys think? It has the basic demensions, but is lacking in a couple of area's. The toggle arms for example, I'm thinking of 1 1/2" by 1/2", would that be thick enough? Also I'm thinking of a spare tire for the clutch at the rear and using a large pipe for the frame instead of plate. Also thinking of making the through ajustible like the little giants where as his just goes through the upper linkage. Also will probably add a brake and bolt on dies instead of dove tailing.

Alright all you engineering freaks, any help for a poor shade tree welder?

Oh, it's an 80 pounder.

http://www.geocities.com/rock65cc/plans1.html

Unfortunatly Ron, The builder passed away early last year. I have been unable to contact his son for more information.
 
Will, I saw these posted somewhere else also. They look to be simple enuff for someone like me:-)
I've got a half-dozen sets of different plans and they are all basically the same. Just a few lil differences here and there.
I brought a Fairbanks 50# home last week. Needs assembled. Still on track to build a homemade one, No sense in lettin all these parts go to waste.
The Fairbanks is very simple and shouldn't be hard to copy. bruce
 
Does anyone know if plans are available yet for Clay Spencers spare tire power hammer? Ive heard its simple in design and runs very well.
 
Will52100 said:
The toggle arms for example, I'm thinking of 1 1/2" by 1/2", would that be thick enough?

I'm no engineer, but if it were me I'd use box tubing or some old rear control arms or somethign "boxed". My reasoning for this is that the spring perches on the arms should be big enough to properly hold the spring. Also, I'd probably use cups to capture the ends of the spring, and build a guard over it. When the springs pop out (which does happen) it apparently not a GoodThing(tm).

Just my $.02,

-d
 
I'd buy a Little Giant, unless you just have the time and desire to build one of these. It wouldn't be too hard to build but my time is better spent making knives not equipment, IMHO :)
 
Considering I've searched for a little giant for about 5 years with no luck, I think I could build this faster.

On the spring perch I'm thinking of turning a holder round to prevent knife edging on the spring. Also will of course make a gaurd to cover the toggle action. Would do that with a little giant also.

Plans are still not out for Clay's tire hammer. Can't seen to get timmed to go to a work shop due to working offshore eigther. Also Clay's hammer is a 50 pounder, this one is an 80 pounder.

Don't have a big enough compressor to run an air hammer and like the old style mechanicle hammer better if it's ajusted rite.

So, any sugestions as to completeing this beast?:D
 
A quik question, how important is the ajustment on the pitman? I mean most of the shop built hammers I've seen don't have a way to move the toggle linkage up or down like the original little giants do. I was thinking of turning a stub arm and mounting it on the pitman verticly and ataching the toggle action to it.

Thanks
 
The only recomendation I'd make is make sure you put a bevel for the welds on the toggle arms. I've seen way to many flat welds bust , and some of those were on something simple like lawnmovers and shopping carts.

The LG spring parts are available . I just bought a new spring and cap for a 50 lber.

Combining the spare tire clutch from Clay's machine should be fairly easy with the dimensions on the toggle arms.

According tot he wild rose video the pitman adjustmant makes a big differenc in how hard the hammer hits. When the LG is adjusted for stock thickness it hits harder/better, more control

Oh yeah, on the spring-breaking-loose-and-bouncing-off-your-skull issue. Somwhere I've seen a aircraft safety cable through the spring and through a small hole in one of the arms. seems like a good idea.
 
Thanks Sweany, that's what I was thinking after doing a little more reading. What I'm thinking is a cage all the way around the arms and spring. The book I've got on little giants give the spring sizes, I think for the 80 pounder I'll try one that corisponds to a 100 pound little giant.

With the work situation I can't realy go start buying steel just yet, but I can get a better idea of what I need.
 
I'd re-design without the toggle linkage, it makes the hammer hit softer for the weight than a flat spring linkage would. and the flat spring linkage is safer.

pitman arm adjustment is pretty important too.
 
I was thinking something like this:

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Pretty similar to the ones over at Anvilfire.
 

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Thanks for the pic, but I think I'll come closer to getting the toggle link rite than trying to figure out the ideal number of leaf springs. I do like the idea though, it's simplicity itself, no upper arm bushing to wear out or machine in the first place.
 
if I'd seen it before it sold I would have too, it's only a few hours drive from here :(
 
I like the leaf spring idea. A spring shop should be able to build them pretty easy
 
I agree sweany, and a leaf spring hammer hits harder for the weight. I've also seen a toggle arm linkage come apart violently, and decided that I'd never have one in my shop.

I can measure my springs if you want Will, it's a 65# hammer, and it hits hard. lemme see if I've got a video...

Okay, found a video, save it and play it, this was right after I got my hammer running last fall, and I hadn't adjusted it properly yet....

champion hammer
 
Thanks for the offer, but I think I'm going to stick with the toggle link. In theroy there shouldn't be any real differance except that with the spring your eleminating two pivot points and maybe increasing spring reaction time slightly. If I was sure I could get it rite the first time I might would consider it, but I have seen plenty of leaf springs break too. Leaf spring or toggle link will get a cage around it for sure.

How would you go about ajusting a spring like that? Other than up and down on the cross feed that is?

I liked the vidio too, thanks
 
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