Checkering File Help

C

corinkayaker

Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
47
Hi folks,

I have never used a checkering file but always wanted one. The coarsest one I can find is 20LPSI. I want it for jimping and I would fancy something a little coarser. Some friends and I are looking at getting a few made. Whats your thoughts? Would 15 LPSI be any good?

I am happy to get them made but I want to be sure the concept is not flawed... is there any reason a 15 LPSI file would not work and look OK?
 
Go to your tool cabinet and look at your selection of taps.


That should give you an idea of what the tooth pattern looks like at various pitches.
 
Yes I am.

If you're doing a folder blade, you can put it upsidedown in a milling vise.
Fixed blades, the handles get in the way (maybe not a hidden tang)


Pick a HSS tap and grind off all but one set of teeth.

Now you've got a form cutter for all the jimping all in one setup.
 
saw that trick have not tried it out yet tho
was really thinking about making or having made a multi flute endmill for checkering
 
That's brilliant.........................

Good job Count
 
I would buy a 15lpi file if you had them made. There are thread cutting tools for cnc applications that would work even better than a tap for checkering but none of those will work well on a fixed blade of any size. I really like the simplicity, flexibility, and effectiveness of a file.

Bob
 
Actually I'd buy one also although I think a 10 tpi would be a better version.

Surely with all the creative, metallurgical talent (Nathan the machinist for example) that lurks here someone could do this. Maybe even economically.

Corey "synthesist" Gimbel
 
was thinking a 10tpi half inch wide disk that fit on a shell mill holder maybe 2-3 inch dia (to help clear the work piece ) side cut checkering all \day long
 
Good idea butch

Larger diameter tools give you clearance from the handle.

As long as the diameter of the cutter is larger than the spindle diameter + cut depth



You could create a stack of slitting saws and spacers to make your own gang cutter.




Sharpen some slitting saws to give yourself the pointy points, whatever angle you want45, 90, 30 degrees, whatever maybe a radius on the bottoms


Then put some spacers between those

In order to get a nice visual balance, you would want the saw thickness to balance with the spacer width

but you could vary the spacer thickness and give you different pitches within a range that it looks proper.
 
I do a lot of jimping for my skinning knives. Grobet makes a 20 lpi pilar file which works (slowly) but a 10 lpi would be better. I'll buy several if you have them made.
Tim
 
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