Checkering files for jimping, tutorial request

David Mary

pass the mustard - after you cut it
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I was excited when my 20 lpi checkering file came in the mail. But then I used it all wrong, I'm sure, because after eight or so knives, the teeth are noticeably duller.

I'd love to hear from someone with checkering file experience. What technique should I use? How long should it take to put a half inch to an inch of jimping on a hardened steel spine? How long should my file last? How should I maintain it? Help me to not destroy my next $80 file! Thanks.
 
Don't use your next $80 file on hardened steel. They aren't meant for it
 
So jimping on a hardened blank, how then? Can anyone suggest an efficient and clean method I can use?
 
Careful use of a separating disc in a Foredom tool.
Careful use of diamond files.
 
How fast does a foredom tool run usually?
Would the lowest setting on a dremel with care and taking your time not to do too much at once, just a bit here and there to avoid heating the blade and messing with heat treat?
 
It doesn't have anything to do with heat.
The Foredom handpiece is smaller diameter, allowing the cuts to be more vertical.
A Dremel will work, but the cuts will be more angled.
 
It doesn't have anything to do with heat.
The Foredom handpiece is smaller diameter, allowing the cuts to be more vertical.
A Dremel will work, but the cuts will be more angled.

Touching on that point...

Dremel does have an accessory handpiece for finer control; it's called a 'Flex-Shaft'. It makes a big difference in how the tool can be handled and controlled, and will allow the cutting disks or whatever bits are used to be oriented more precisely to the workpiece, such as vertically orienting the cutting disks for jimping. Searching the web for 'Dremel handpiece', there seem to be other aftermarket options to fit the Dremel as well.

Here's a pic of Dremel's current version of the Flex-Shaft attached to the tool:

3185pp28YPL.jpg



David
 
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Or, what about a Thread Repair File? They are used to correct damaged threads on bolts and due to that could likely be found in spacing larger than 15 tpi, as well as being comparatively inexpensive.
 
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ask this, why does a file skate on hardened steel? simple the steel is harder than the file. only diamond files or a disc in a dremel or foredom. files simply don't work on hardened steel.
 
Right. Do NOT use a steel file - any kind of steel file - on hardened steel unless you don't care about killing it PDQ. Bill has already given excellent and knowledgeable advice, follow it!

An aside regarding the "thread repair files" - even on soft steel they won't cut anywhere near as well as a checkering file. Those are designed so that the teeth only remove anything sticking up beyond the normal surface of an existing thread. The teeth are not angled in such a way as to allow them to remove much material.
 
I do have a Flex shaft, and a "Drill Press" style work station, a few other things too, I am sure I could find a way to control the angle precisely - but I was just wondering. Since you mentioned a foredom tool which is, well, similar to a Dremel in a lot of ways, and I happen to have a Dremel.

Felt it better to ask than just whip out some power tools to go slap happy with some jimping. I feel that is a good way to make amazing mistakes when your still new to knife modification and making experience.

Thanks for the answer though. I do ask a lot of questions but this place has people who always seem to give great answers to my questions as well as comments to my feedback that I give others.
 
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