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Checkering Files?

Peter Atwood

Peter Atwood

Joined
Oct 26, 2000
Messages
2,468
What size checkering file would I need to get a fairly big pattern? I have a file now ( sorry, I don't know the size) but it yields a very fine pattern that isn't very deep. I'm making some huge folders and I need a decent sized set of grooves that would be more suitable for this size knife. The sizing in the catalogs just confuses me...any advice? Thanks!
 
The ones I've seena are listed 20 30 0r 40. The numbers meen lines per inch, so 20 would give you the most spacing.
Joe
 
Thanks Kit!

One more question.....on the technique of using a checkering file....do you all just use the checkering file marks as is or do you make them deeper with another smaller file after laying out the initial lines? I have had success with some knives just using the checkering file and on others the grooves get ground down a bit during final cleanup. Of course, then the blade is hardened and I end up not being able to reestablish those grooves. Any thoughts on this?
 
try to do the final grinding in those areas before HT. Yes there is a file called a 60 degree that will finish off the grooves one at a time after the initial very deep lay-out but after HT there aint no file that will cut. See Brownells checkering file section.
 
Peter,
It can be done either way. I just use the checkering file. You have to finish the area completely before heat treat. I use a Beartex wheel to deburr and take off the sharp edges then touch it up again. You can use 400 grit paper after heat treat to clean the grooves up.

Let me add a couple of options...

If you have a milling machine you can put the part to be serrated in a vise, horizontal to it, and use a 60° or 90° cutter and cut one, move down .xxx (.100) cut the next one, etc.

Or, if you can tilt the head, tilt it to 45° and use a 1/4" center (end) cutting endmill with the part in the vise and parallel to it and cut the first one, move forward .xxx (.100) and cut the second one, etc, etc

I ground a 1/2" checkering file down to 1/4" wide and use it for radius areas that I serrate (like the lock release area).

BTW, when I say serrate, I don't mean edge cutting serrations. I'm talking about V shaped cuts (traction grooves) :)
 
Invaluable advice gentlemen! Thank you. :)

I was wondering how I could do the inside areas of the thumb release. Your method makes tons of sense, Kit. I currently use a triangle file and file 45 degree grooves which look nice and work well but I'd like to have a more uniform look. Looks like I'll be calling Brownells on Monday! :D
 
Peter,
More food for thought...If you grind down a 1/2" wide checkering file that is 20 lpi to 1/4", you end up with 10 lines of teeth. I slightly round the 2 outside rows from tip to handle so it doesn't have sharp corners. As you move the file across, the center teeth recut the outside rows that were shallower. You may have to touch up the outside rows with a triangle file.
I've been using this narrower file for probably 8 years or more. The lock release area is all I use it for.

Titanium isn't hard on them, but blade steel will dull the teeth pretty quickly. I use an old checkering file to start the teeth and once I get the sharp edges of the blade cut, I use the newer file to finish.
 
Peter,
I use the 20 lines, and I bought it from Sheffields, Grobet Checkering Cat. # CF01 was $25.50 in last catolog.

Sheffields Knifemakers Supply
Ordering 1-800874-7007 8am - 5 pm E.S.T.

Oh yes, this is 1/2" wide
 
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