The topic of checkering handles to improve grip has come up several times in the past. Since not everyone visits all of the individual forums, I thought this would be a good central place to share some info.
I first became interested in the idea when I came across the topic on the Spyderco forum. Sal had indicated that any of the stainless models should be able to handle checkering up to l mm deep if you avoid the pins and lanyard holes. Since I occasionally carry my Native II w/o clip & found that the slim metal handle made secure opening very difficult, I decided to give checkering a try. (The "Spydie drop" opening is not appropriate for all settings.
) Here's the result with a 16 lines per inch (lpi) flat topped diamond pattern:
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=185132&a=10260871&p=36398243&Sequence=0&res=high" TARGET=_blank>
</A>
While the shallow 16 lpi flat topped diamond pattern provides good protection against perpendicular slippage (i.e., across the handle) and did the job that I wanted it to on the Native, I found that it doesn't prevent back-to-front movement along the handle as much. Because of the Native's handle design, this is not a problem. However, anyone thinking about checkering to aid in stopping hand slippage toward the blade might be better off considering a more aggressive pattern. Your choices of pattern include how many lines per inch as well as how pointy or flat you want the pattern to be. It doesn't have to be entirely one way or the other. IMO, you want to strike a balance between retention characteristics and comfort in the hand -- i.e., fewer lines-per-inch and a flat top pattern will be more comfortable but offer somewhat less of a grip.
Here are a couple of others that I just had done recently. The one on the left is 16 lpi semi-flat top diamond checkering on the G10 handle of my RJ Martin Handiman. On the right is a 18 lpi slightly more pointy pattern on the black ivory (wood) scales of an Arno Bernard.
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=185132&a=10260871&p=35801775&Sequence=0&res=high" TARGET=_blank>
</A> <A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=185132&a=10260871&p=35801779&Sequence=0&res=high" TARGET=_blank>
</A>
I wanted to improve the grip on my Dozier Arkansas Toothpick but I wasn't sure if full checkering was what I wanted. Since a couple of my Nealys have had perpendicular grooves and one of my Bauchops has diagonal ones, I decided to try them on the Dozier. Here's how a 20 lpi semi-flat top pattern came out:
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=185132&a=10260871&p=35801777&Sequence=0&res=high" TARGET=_blank>
</A>
While I wouldn't want checkering, at least not a very aggressive pattern, on a heavy chopper like a khukuri, IMO it can improve both the appearance and functionality of smaller blades. Anyone interested in having similar work done can contact Julie at CheckerMarx (360-380-1903 or CheckerMarx@compuserve.com), tell her you heard about her here, and ask her to send you a sample with different patterns. Thanks again, Nakano, for getting me started and thank you, Julie, for some excellent work.
------------------
Cheers,
Brian
He who finishes with the most toys wins.
I first became interested in the idea when I came across the topic on the Spyderco forum. Sal had indicated that any of the stainless models should be able to handle checkering up to l mm deep if you avoid the pins and lanyard holes. Since I occasionally carry my Native II w/o clip & found that the slim metal handle made secure opening very difficult, I decided to give checkering a try. (The "Spydie drop" opening is not appropriate for all settings.
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=185132&a=10260871&p=36398243&Sequence=0&res=high" TARGET=_blank>
While the shallow 16 lpi flat topped diamond pattern provides good protection against perpendicular slippage (i.e., across the handle) and did the job that I wanted it to on the Native, I found that it doesn't prevent back-to-front movement along the handle as much. Because of the Native's handle design, this is not a problem. However, anyone thinking about checkering to aid in stopping hand slippage toward the blade might be better off considering a more aggressive pattern. Your choices of pattern include how many lines per inch as well as how pointy or flat you want the pattern to be. It doesn't have to be entirely one way or the other. IMO, you want to strike a balance between retention characteristics and comfort in the hand -- i.e., fewer lines-per-inch and a flat top pattern will be more comfortable but offer somewhat less of a grip.
Here are a couple of others that I just had done recently. The one on the left is 16 lpi semi-flat top diamond checkering on the G10 handle of my RJ Martin Handiman. On the right is a 18 lpi slightly more pointy pattern on the black ivory (wood) scales of an Arno Bernard.
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=185132&a=10260871&p=35801775&Sequence=0&res=high" TARGET=_blank>
I wanted to improve the grip on my Dozier Arkansas Toothpick but I wasn't sure if full checkering was what I wanted. Since a couple of my Nealys have had perpendicular grooves and one of my Bauchops has diagonal ones, I decided to try them on the Dozier. Here's how a 20 lpi semi-flat top pattern came out:
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=185132&a=10260871&p=35801777&Sequence=0&res=high" TARGET=_blank>
While I wouldn't want checkering, at least not a very aggressive pattern, on a heavy chopper like a khukuri, IMO it can improve both the appearance and functionality of smaller blades. Anyone interested in having similar work done can contact Julie at CheckerMarx (360-380-1903 or CheckerMarx@compuserve.com), tell her you heard about her here, and ask her to send you a sample with different patterns. Thanks again, Nakano, for getting me started and thank you, Julie, for some excellent work.
------------------
Cheers,
Brian
He who finishes with the most toys wins.
