Checkering Knife Handles

Joined
Jan 22, 1999
Messages
2,414
The topic of checkering handles to improve grip has come up several times in the past. Since not everyone visits all of the individual forums, I thought this would be a good central place to share some info.

I first became interested in the idea when I came across the topic on the Spyderco forum. Sal had indicated that any of the stainless models should be able to handle checkering up to l mm deep if you avoid the pins and lanyard holes. Since I occasionally carry my Native II w/o clip & found that the slim metal handle made secure opening very difficult, I decided to give checkering a try. (The "Spydie drop" opening is not appropriate for all settings.
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) Here's the result with a 16 lines per inch (lpi) flat topped diamond pattern:

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While the shallow 16 lpi flat topped diamond pattern provides good protection against perpendicular slippage (i.e., across the handle) and did the job that I wanted it to on the Native, I found that it doesn't prevent back-to-front movement along the handle as much. Because of the Native's handle design, this is not a problem. However, anyone thinking about checkering to aid in stopping hand slippage toward the blade might be better off considering a more aggressive pattern. Your choices of pattern include how many lines per inch as well as how pointy or flat you want the pattern to be. It doesn't have to be entirely one way or the other. IMO, you want to strike a balance between retention characteristics and comfort in the hand -- i.e., fewer lines-per-inch and a flat top pattern will be more comfortable but offer somewhat less of a grip.

Here are a couple of others that I just had done recently. The one on the left is 16 lpi semi-flat top diamond checkering on the G10 handle of my RJ Martin Handiman. On the right is a 18 lpi slightly more pointy pattern on the black ivory (wood) scales of an Arno Bernard.

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I wanted to improve the grip on my Dozier Arkansas Toothpick but I wasn't sure if full checkering was what I wanted. Since a couple of my Nealys have had perpendicular grooves and one of my Bauchops has diagonal ones, I decided to try them on the Dozier. Here's how a 20 lpi semi-flat top pattern came out:

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While I wouldn't want checkering, at least not a very aggressive pattern, on a heavy chopper like a khukuri, IMO it can improve both the appearance and functionality of smaller blades. Anyone interested in having similar work done can contact Julie at CheckerMarx (360-380-1903 or CheckerMarx@compuserve.com), tell her you heard about her here, and ask her to send you a sample with different patterns. Thanks again, Nakano, for getting me started and thank you, Julie, for some excellent work.
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Cheers,
Brian

He who finishes with the most toys wins.
 
Sure thing Brian. Thanks for sharing and putting up the pics.

Those pieces are very nicely done. Now how much were you selling that Bernard for?
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For those who really put their blades to work (or simply like to admire them for that matter) a checkering job is an absolute plus in my experience. I' ve had quite a few blade scales done by Checkermarx and they would make smooth/ polished finish scales look silly. There grip retention, most notably for "business" blades is improved by a quantum leap. (To quote Massad Ayoob
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)

Additionally, depending on a particular piece, its value may be enhanced if for collecting purposes.

L8r,
Nakano
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Nakano 2:
...Now how much were you selling that Bernard for?
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...
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Wrong Bernard piece, Nakano. I just sold a smaller one with giraffe bone scales but I'll be holding on to this one... for a while, at least.
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FYI, here it is in a Nealy-esque inverted carry Kydex sheath that I cobbled for it.
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Cheers,
Brian

He who finishes with the most toys wins.
 
A partial coverage job like on that Native can enhance the looks of a knife, too....

Beware! Checkering is notoriously addictive -- once you learn to do it you're doomed to checker all your guns and knives, all your friends' guns and knives, and then you start on your bedposts, chairs, dining room table....

I don't have the time to learn to do checkering ... I'm too busy cordwrapping everything in sight. Cordwrapping isn't an addiction like checkering, though; I can quit any time I want to! In fact I'm planning to quit soon ... as soon as I run out of handles to cordwrap. I'm doing most of them in duck decoy cord with continuous half hitches in a spiral pattern ... I still have some dumbbells I haven't cordwrapped yet, and the 7 foot Olympic bar, and then I'll be done ... then I can start tying turksheads on everything.

-Cougar :{)
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Cougar Allen:
A partial coverage job like on that Native can enhance the looks of a knife, too....

Cordwrapping ... in duck decoy cord with continuous half hitches in a spiral pattern ...
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Thanks, Cougar. Cordwrapping a series of half hitches in a spiral pattern, eh? Well I do have this skeleton handled large spearpoint...
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You're welcome, Alex. I'm glad you found the stuff interesting.



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Cheers,
Brian

He who finishes with the most toys wins.
 
I got to handle several of these at the NY show, and they are great. Nakano sold me on checkering, what a collection!!!

Win
 
No, I don't yet have the ability to post pictures Brian. I had a Dozier Agent checkered by CheckerMarx with 16 LPI flat top diamonds. I learned that I prefer a sharper pattern. Julie was so gracious that she recheckered the handle for free. I still preferred it sharper.

Specifically due to the sharp checkering problem I had Mr. Dozier build me a NY Special with various modifications. One of the modifications was a G-10 handle. Julie had told me that G-10 performed substantially better than micarta where checkering was involved. I sent Mr. Dozier some G-10.

Julie designed a checker pattern for me she calls "V". It is sharp. I'll lay the NY Special on a cloth place mat and when I pick up the knife the place mat sticks to the handle like velcro.

I had noticed that the other checkering didn't prevent "front to back" movement like you mentioned Brian. Julie's "V" pattern in G-10 is SHARP. If I grip the handle tightly the handle picks into my skin slightly in just the way I wanted. Julie and Mr. Dozer have made me a happy man.

Take care,
bug

 
Thanks for the info, Bug. I may have to try a full pointy pattern in the future although I will say that I've gotten the retention characteristics that I wanted with the semi-flat top ones.

A side effect of checkering micarta seems to be the appearance of an almost white residue in the checkered areas. I'm not sure of the cause but I suspect it's because the checkering cuts are at a fairly coarse grit and may be exposing the unpolished ends of fibers within the micarta. I know it's not very scientific but I noticed the same effect on a buffalo horn handle that I was modifying. On the horn, the whiteness eventually disappeared after buffing. I've tried an application of Hooflex, a penetrating hoof treatment, on checkered micarta and it restores the original dark color. It may not be a permanent solution but, so far, it has proven to be long lasting.

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Cheers,
Brian

He who finishes with the most toys wins.
 
"I've tried an application of Hooflex, a penetrating hoof treatment, on checkered micarta and it restores the original dark
color. It may not be a permanent solution but, so far, it has proven to be long lasting."

I oil my micarta as well. I've used 3-in-1 and wd-40. I found with handling that you lose the dense black color and have to re-apply every now and again. I recently switched to saddle oil I got at a tack shop and so far no re-applications.

Hugh

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King of all that rhymes with Orange!!!
 
Great thread here.

G10, which has greater psi yield strength, is much denser than any type of micarta. The "points" formed by checkering remains as such. Micarta is a bit "softer" in that regard. Perhaps a higher lpi pattern is indeed needed for micarta in order to obtain an equally aggressive grip capability that is on that of the G10.

Additionally, IME G10 will have very little or none of that slight "powdery" hue that returns from untreated micarta. The scales on my Polkowskis and RJ Martins are still "powder" free.

Bug: the texture on your palms must be that of sandpaper!
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Keep in mind that for utility pieces such as my Doziers, their pattern may not necessarily need be as aggressive as those for PPP (Personal Protection Purposes). Extended work with my Doziers with 16- 18 lpi flat top diamond pattern is quite adequate and still comfortable. As for PPP blades such as the Arkansas Toothpick/ NY Special an absolute non slip grip is required needless to say.

A word on petroleum based lubes/ solvents. It is debated whether or not there would be harm done to the structure of G10 and micarta when the edges are exposed from cuts into the layers. It is said that these exposed fresh fibers will have the ability to absorb the oils/ solvents and may lead to possible gradual breakdown. Don' t know. I don' t oil down my pieces much. I guess their appearances/ surface finish is not an issue for me. Julie Marx had finished a few with a polished job in an attempt at blending but the powder hue still returns.

Julies work is top notch. She will work with and listen to you for complete satisfaction.

L8r,
Nakano
 
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