Cherry, right? Done, its cherry!

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Apr 14, 2012
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The wood is slightly more vivid and color-full than thy appear on the screen. I think I have narrowed this down to cherry. Am I wrong or right?

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peppen,
It isn't always simple when the wood is in front of you, and a small photo on a computer is virtually no good. All these woods you post are merely guessed at by the chaps here. It would be far better to take the wood to a cabinet maker or wood craftsman and let him tell you directly.
 
The ray fleck figure makes me think of sycamore, and that sometimes has a reddish tinge to it. A couple books you might want to look at: Hoadley's "Understanding Wood" , and A Guide to Useful Woods of the World
 
It's not sycamore, it would have a light bark if it did. Is the wood fairly soft and light? If you wet it is the heartwood almost a salmon color? If so, it's probably cherry. Judging from the pictures I'm pretty certain that it's cherry. Makes a great BBQ wood :D
 
It would be even better to get wood from a reputable source who knows what it is in the first place. What you have there is remarkably unremarkable as far as knife handles go anyway, in terms of pretty grain or figure.

I feel the same way about unknown wood as I do about unknown steel - it's seldom worth the effort.
 
No doubt in my mind it's cherry. The bark and color fit and the figure on the vertical-grained face is common in cherry cut like that. It's most prevalent in quartersawn oak and sycamore but many woods show that figure including maple.
 
Thanks guys!

This one took me some extra time because they use an other name for cherry in my wood identification book. Butt ones i figured out that fågelbär was cherry then it all came together.

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Four "tell tell signs" of cherry.
 
James your post can be perceived as quite arrogant and energy draining, no mater how I read it.

I've put a lot of time and effort to get a hold of wild grown Scandinavian hardwood with more than 20 years of drying time. I know this is going to be spectacular.
 
for what it's worth, drying time for green wood can be figured at about one inch per year--i.e. a 4in thick board will be workably dry at about 4 years drying time. make sure you let wood sit in your shop for a few days to adjust to the humidity before working with it.
 
James your post can be perceived as quite arrogant and energy draining, no mater how I read it.

I've put a lot of time and effort to get a hold of wild grown Scandinavian hardwood with more than 20 years of drying time. I know this is going to be spectacular.

Peppen perhaps you have some Masur / Karelian Birch that could be found near you. Beautiful figure, and great for knife handles... Larry
 
James your post can be perceived as quite arrogant and energy draining, no mater how I read it.

I've put a lot of time and effort to get a hold of wild grown Scandinavian hardwood with more than 20 years of drying time. I know this is going to be spectacular.

peppen108: With the authority gathered from 31 years of building Queen Anne and Shaker furniture, cabinetmaking, and gunstock making, I will tell you that you have a rift cut piece of cherry (common grade) with very little color contrast and no figure to speak of. Common grade lumber is used as a secondary wood for drawer sides and slides in the interior of high grade cabinetry.

Secondly, I agree with Mr. Terrio whole heartedly - this wood will yield nothing less than an unspectacular display. I'm not interested in starting a war here, but I sure hate to see a fella waste his time on a knife only to be disappointed or not be able to sell it. If you'd like some help picking out a great piece of wood, I'd be glad to help. Here's a stock I built about five years ago: flat cut, exhibition grade claro walnut, high color contrast, crotch flame figure, with a gabon ebony inlay in the grip area. I picked out the wood by the way......the blank was $350 and the reason I got it so cheaply was the seller didn't think anyone could squeeze two stocks out of it - I did.

Speaking from many years of experience may be perceived as arrogance by some or perceived as competence by others......it's all a matter of one's perspective I guess. :)

Best regards,

TK

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I greatly appreciate your experiences and willingness to help. I find James input help-full as well.

The piece is really straight grained and I have chosen it because it gave me a chance to hi-light areas important when identifying wood.

The wood is not bought from a store or a saw. Its from a closed down furniture workshop shop. The wood has been gathered locally and sawed up at the shop. Not industrial, ore graded wood, more ods and sods.

I paid 120$ for the batch.

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There are some exiting pieces in there. But I find the humble straight grained hard cherry wood fit both the Japanese and Scandinavian sens of style weary well. But this is a recreational hobby for me so i probably operate by a different set of laws than real makers.
 
peppen: The whole idea is to have fun and derive satisfaction - if that wood does it for you, GREAT!! If I can be of assistance, don't hesitate to give me a yell.:)

Best regards,

TK
 
TK Steingass, thanks, and that stock locks spectacular.

James, I'm of the "snus" so nerves are a bit on the out side. :)
 
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