Chinese pid

That's the way my oven is too.
The PID IS advertised to read both F and C, but changing the value that is supposed to switch it does nothing.

Glad that did the trick. PIDs in and of themselves are generally pretty straight forward, there's just not always consistency in the types of parameters and what each manufacturer decides to name them or abbreviate them as. Then there's the whole matter of getting into the menu and changing/saving set points.

So for your Fahrenheit/Celsius conversion, is it a parameter that changes from 0 to 1 and vice versa? If so, you may have to hit the "set" button, or something similar to save the parameter change.
 
In one instruction manual, I see the C/F parameter named SL2. It's default appears to be 0000. If you go to that parameter, change it to "0001" and then hit the set button, does that change anything for you?
 
Glad that did the trick. PIDs in and of themselves are generally pretty straight forward, there's just not always consistency in the types of parameters and what each manufacturer decides to name them or abbreviate them as. Then there's the whole matter of getting into the menu and changing/saving set points.

So for your Fahrenheit/Celsius conversion, is it a parameter that changes from 0 to 1 and vice versa? If so, you may have to hit the "set" button, or something similar to save the parameter change.

Yes, but I haven't figured out a magic combination to make it change anything.

In one instruction manual, I see the C/F parameter named SL2. It's default appears to be 0000. If you go to that parameter, change it to "0001" and then hit the set button, does that change anything for you?

That's it exactly, when I change it nothing happens. SL2 default is 0, changing it to 1 does nothing, when I go back it will still be set to 1, but still reads in Celsius.
 
Yes, but I haven't figured out a magic combination to make it change anything.



That's it exactly, when I change it nothing happens. SL2 default is 0, changing it to 1 does nothing, when I go back it will still be set to 1, but still reads in Celsius.


Hmmm.... interesting. And you do have the parameter set for the proper k type TC? I'll assume yes, since you're reading 0C in ice water, and I'm not quite sure why that would affect F vs C, but I'm just thinking out loud.
 
I have another question.

Has anyone ever tried to calibrate a set pro controller?

There has to be a way. I can live with it the way it is but would be super cool to dial it in.
 
The easiest way would be to get a calibrator on it: connect the calibrator in place of the thermocouple and feed the SetPro a series of simulated temperatures throughout its range.

TBH though, every reasonably reputable controller I've come across in the last 20 years or so has had an error that falls well within the tolerance band for the thermocouple it is intended to be used with, even when the thermocouple is made with "special limits of accuracy" wire. I'd expect the SetPro to be no different.

With type K thermocouples, the biggest source of measurement uncertainty is almost always the thermocouple itself and that is where I'd concentrate my efforts.

If you really need that degree of accuracy, the best thing to do would probably be to buy several "same melt" thermocouples at the same time, thoroughly test your HT to find the optimum temperatures for the HT oven/thermocouple/controller combination you have, and change out the thermocouple regularly for one from the same batch to minimize the effect of "drift". For type K thermocouples, "drift" starts to become a consideration above about 1000 degC (1832 degF) and is a time-at-temperature thing: longer times at higher temperatures cause more drift. For Hobby use, annual changes would probably be fine. In daily use on Stainless steels, perhaps three-monthly and in daily use treating HSS for maximum hardness, perhaps monthly.

I tend to use type N thermocouples on the ovens I've built. Type N was developed largely to overcome the drift problem of type K. As far as I am aware though, the SetPro will not accept a type N input. The industrial controller I use will accept type N, but programming the ramp/soak profiles is a real pain compared to something designed to be user-friendly like the SetPro.

For checking (as distinct from calibrating), Tempilsticks or Orton cones can be used.
 
Thanks great info to have.

I'm going to try and get back in shop today for a little more testing.
 
Before I figured out the PID I sent the eBay stellar a message ask how to switch to Fahrenheit, he said sorry it only does Celsius and sent me a 2 dollar refund .

So the PID cost 7 bucks total.
 
I had wondered if that was the case - The first Chinese PID I purchased a few year back also did only ºC with a max of 400ºF and no way to change it. Took me a while to figure that one out also. Works just fine for tempering, but not heat treat. Sounds like you've got a MUCH better understanding now - and for $7, you've had a cheap learning experience..... and time learning is never "time wasted".

Ken H>
 
I had wondered if that was the case - The first Chinese PID I purchased a few year back also did only ºC with a max of 400ºF and no way to change it. Took me a while to figure that one out also. Works just fine for tempering, but not heat treat. Sounds like you've got a MUCH better understanding now - and for $7, you've had a cheap learning experience..... and time learning is never "time wasted".

Ken H>

Yep,and I really appreciate all the help!
 
I'm still trying to really figure out the oven.

I checked the TC on the evenheat in icewater, it shows 46 degrees. That's only 14 degrees off, but the error grows with temperature.
I took a piece of 11 guage, bent it into an L shape so there is no heat sink effect and started checking with a magnet.

I know it's non magnetic at around 1455, but I may have over shot a bit so I'm coming back down and checking.
 
I set the oven to ramp at "full" to 1400, soak for 5 minutes, then 1000 degrees an hour up to 1445, after a 10 min soak non magnetic.

I set the last bit slow so it wouldn't over shoot as much, and it didn't.

I think I'm safe to say my oven reads 30 degrees hotter than actual temp but does anyone see any flaws in my test.

I may never make knives as beautiful as some members here but I want to know that whatever I make it's as functional as it can be.
 
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