Chinook III vs Manix c95 - which is the strongest spyderco folder

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solvetek01

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Nov 3, 2007
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I am looking for a strong folder with a reliable lock up. The Spyderco web site says that the Chinook III has the thickest lock found on any spyderco.(see below) Many people on this forum say that the Manix is a strong folder.

1)Anyone know which is the stronger, more durable model?
2)Is there another spyderco folder that is even stronger then these two?

"Lock strength requirements are higher for an outdoor or martial arts folder so the Chinook III’s back-lock is the thickest found on any Spyderco folder."
 
As far as I can tell, they're nearly identical in terms of construction (and probably therefore strength as well). The Manix is basically a more "Spyderized" Chinook- it's got more traditional Spyderco ergos and blade shape. As far as I'm concerned it just comes down to personal preference- I like the shape of the Chinook's handle a little more, but plenty of people prefer the Manix.
 
Lock strength is toss up, both are very strong. It all depends on which one you like best. I get more use out of my mini-manix, get one while you still can.
 
Just a small side question:

I would hazard a guess that most of the stabbings / knife assaults commonly committed each year are most likely to be done with the most un-extraordinary knives.

I have heard really graphic descriptions of what even a non locking SAK is capable of doing to a person...

I would have therefore thought, that lock strength is less of a prerequisite in SD scenarios - and much, much more important in heavy duty cutting - like chopping down trees, piping etc - all of which must surely be much less cooperative than flesh?

So, is lock strength really such a big deal if SD is a pre-requisite?
 
Due to the ease of opening and almost fail-proof construction of the compression lock, if I had to pick an SD knife it'd be the Yojimbo or Para-Military. The lack of a backspring makes it ridiculously easy to open and the compression lock just laughs at lint and debris.
 
I would hazard a guess that most of the stabbings / knife assaults commonly committed each year are most likely to be done with the most un-extraordinary knives.

Most knife wounds are inflicted with extremely cheap, flea-market knives or kitchen knives.

I would have therefore thought, that lock strength is less of a prerequisite in SD scenarios - and much, much more important in heavy duty cutting - like chopping down trees, piping etc - all of which must surely be much less cooperative than flesh?

There are significant differences among the requirements for assault, fighting, and self-defense.

Assault needs only a sharp enough blade to blind-side the victim, slash or stab, grab and run. Fighting might require a knife with a strong enough lock not to give way if the blade struck heavy clothing or a hard object inside the clothing. Self-defense conceivably could require no more than a fast pair of feet.

However, for real work like cutting rope or cardboard or wood, you need no lock at all, only a knowledge of which part of the blade is sharp. :) In fact, in batoning, you might even be better off with a slipjoint, since a lock could be damaged by excessive force to the blade.

So, is lock strength really such a big deal if SD is a pre-requisite?

The lock is important if 1) your activity might result in torquing, for example, if drilling a hole with the blade tip or 2) if you are cold, tired, wet, and distracted.

In self-defense situations where you might be so backed into a corner that you feel impelled to use a knife, you will be poking your opponent at any angle and with any amount of force possible. Just like drilling, the blade will twist in the clothes or flesh.

You may not be cold, tired, or wet, but you will be distracted. A good lock will help keep the blade from folding on you at a bad moment.
 
Lock and handle strength should be virtually identical, since materials and thicknesses are identical. The Manix theoretically has a slight advantage in that its lockbar pivot point is about 1/64" closer to the pawl. What that means in the real world is debatable.

Blade material and thickness are identical as well, and the fact they are both full flat ground makes them even more evenly matched in that regard. But, I would say the Manix has a distinct advantage when it comes to tip strength due to the relative shapes of the two blades. Of course, for some uses, the greater belly provided by the Chinook III's trailing point design would more than compensate for that.

Bottom line, both are extremely strong, well built folders.

Paul
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Chinook 3 has a stronger tip, Paul.

While both are flat ground, the Manix is ground considerably thinner. I have both here, the Chinook's tip is almost twice as thick.

Keno
 
as i recall, the chinook I defeated spyderco's lock testing machine. Also, since it doesn't have skeletonized liners, i would hazard to guess that it is the strongest folder spyderco has made. Between the manix and the current chinook, it has to be right near identical, however the blade of the chinook, as was already mentioned, is thicker, and thus theoretically heavier. so that extra weight would add to the load being applied and defeat the lock sooner. Since we are talking about fractions of ounces compared to hundreds of pounds, its safe to say they are just about the same strength ;-).
 
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