Chiral's New UKE!

Been too dang busy to get a worthwhile post in here, but just wanted to say, keep it coming Mac, I'm reading with interest.
 
In case you missed it, there is a post above showing a picture of just threading the cord through the Tek-Lok rather than the belt-loop and using that for the dangler, if you decide to stick with the Tek-Lok.
 
chiral.grolim said:
In case you missed it, there is a post above showing a picture of just threading the cord through the Tek-Lok rather than the belt-loop and using that for the dangler, if you decide to stick with the Tek-Lok.
Click to expand...

I did see that chiral, and it makes for a very versatile setup that way. What I am drawn to with the Tek-Lok is the ease of changing configurations in the field. One thing that is always on my belt is a multi-tool. Changing configurations on the fly is pretty straight forward. Also, the Tek-Lok will mount/dismount to MOLLE much easier than the factory S!K sheath attachment. I will just have to make sure I clear some ground, or make sure I have extra Chicago screws in case of a drop. Moving from pack to belt in either drop or dangler is all pretty easily done with the Phillips attachment on the MT.
 
Ok, here is the knife porn you all were waiting for. First up is the 5.1 with the New UKE. I have it with the new clip attached. I must say that I like this clip a lot. Easy on and easy off. Might want the dangler option for driving, but we shall see. Note how dark the camo micarta scales are. I got in a bit of a rain storm a week or so ago, so I got the mineral oil after the knife. I oiled the handles as well.









Next up is the GSO 10. As stated, this is the older double layer design for LH, but it works better on the 10 when mounted to the spine side. Currently I have the stock belt loop on it as this is how it came, but I am seriously thinking about adding the Tek-Lok to this one for all the reasons stated in my previous post.









Enjoy!
 
Looks good Mac. I had a custom leather setup built for a two-knife dangler set a few years back. It took a couple of tries to get the drop loop portion of the dangler the right length, but when we got it to fit at the hinge-point of my hip it just made a great sheath. I can jump in the truck with it on and it doesn't hang up or gouge me or get caught in the seat. The UKE would be real easy to adjust that length, where I had to get a longer loop built.
 
Hard Knocks said:
Looks good Mac. I had a custom leather setup built for a two-knife dangler set a few years back. It took a couple of tries to get the drop loop portion of the dangler the right length, but when we got it to fit at the hinge-point of my hip it just made a great sheath. I can jump in the truck with it on and it doesn't hang up or gouge me or get caught in the seat. The UKE would be real easy to adjust that length, where I had to get a longer loop built.
Click to expand...

That is my hope here, that I will find the optimal carry option for the 10 that allows me to jump in and out of the truck, work in the woods, on and off the ATV, etc., without really thinking about it. I think that the 5.1 is small enough to work as it is with the direct fastened clip, but the dangler might work better for it as well.
 
I'm loving the dangler attachment for my 5. Great height and range of flexibility. I got to wear it all around the yard for a good while doing various things. I wasn't in a vehicle but I was standing and sitting and it worked well.

I noticed a little wear on the kydex where the screw head makes contact. For extended use it think I might find a washer for under the screw. This is the only spot where there is metal on kydex and a washer would solve it.


All in all the UKE dangler is my prefered method to wear my 5 :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
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I prefer the old style dangler with the leather.

My wife prefers the new style and uses cordage on the clip so it swings freely.





She also stole my necker II. :( bright side she OKed me to get a 2.7.

 
Just click 2 with the next Survive knife order. Problem solved (except paying for them).

I too have gravitated to the old style leather loop on my 5.1. I did not try to dangle the knife when using the clip.
 
McVeyMac said:
Just click 2 with the next Survive knife order. Problem solved (except paying for them).

I too have gravitated to the old style leather loop on my 5.1. I did not try to dangle the knife when using the clip.
Click to expand...

Haha yea, good thinking and when it shows up just be like :D S! Loves us so much they sent an extra for you!

I didn't even think about it, till I emailed chiral a progress report on how we liked them. He said just swap the screws for some cordage. I felt minuscule, I hadn't even thought of that. I swapped it around d gave it back and now she wears it all the time.
 
Thanks for the updates, guys&gals :thumbup:

Looking for criticism and suggestions as well.
The marking of the kydex is unfortunate... those truss-head screws were chosen specifically to limit the damage. I love the slots, and the design of the extension coupled with those slots allows you to mount the extension at just about any height on the sheath - from tip to mouth. If Guy keeps the sheaths spec'd with 7/32" slots, damage should remain minimal and the screws won't ever be able to tear through. But yeah, it'll mark the slot. You can remove the mark by gently heating the divot created, but this also risks deforming the slot. If you can't stand what the truss does to the kydex, there is always the option of tying the extension hole into place through the slot - it is amazing how often one can substitute paracord for a screw/bolt ;) Not as rigid, but it can work, though I'd advise against using cord with the angled hole of the extension, instead use the corner hole for the cord and use a screw/bolt with the included rubber spacer to hold your angle secure...


Texas_ good job on tying the clip into place :thumbup: As tight or as loose as she needs it, the options are endless :cool:
 
OK, following theJman's requests for an adaptor to allow the UKE to mount a plastic sheath with holes spaced 1.5" o.c. (i think this would include all ESEE sheaths?), I followed Kiah's recommendation and made a few slips of kydex to bridge the gap from 3/4" to 1.5"

P1040165.JPG

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That solved one concern and increases the UKE's versatility... But Silver Needle's comment about wear on the slots of the S!K sheaths and using a washer made me think, "Wait, i could cut the end off that bridge-piece and use IT as a washer!"

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Or you could use the "bridge" piece as a washer for both attachment points:

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So i guess I'll include both the shorter bridge (for 1.5" attachment) and the washer with future purchases. So if you know anyone who was holding back because of the connection concern, please show them my way! And thank you to all who have given feedback.

By the way, for anyone who already has a UKE and needs something like this, drop me a line and I'll see about sending a paper envelope your way with a piece in it.
 
I'll take a few but I won't need it till I order my next one for the 7/7. :) no since in wasting trees and all. Gotta leave some for when the 12 hits the woods.
 
Chiral! Very nice innovations. Now those babies are even more universal. The kydex washer is a great idea :thumbup:
 
Yup, screws will gouge the crap outta slots without a washer of some sort. I've actually thought about having some flanged steel inserts made at some point.

Chiral, I wonder if you could find a small enough hole saw to make short work of those washers. If not, I used to do something similar as a webbing backer, and found a cheap handheld sheet metal punch saved a lot of headaches in putting holes in tiny pieces of Kydex.
 
Kiah said:
Yup, screws will gouge the crap outta slots without a washer of some sort. I've actually thought about having some flanged steel inserts made at some point.

Chiral, I wonder if you could find a small enough hole saw to make short work of those washers. If not, I used to do something similar as a webbing backer, and found a cheap handheld sheet metal punch saved a lot of headaches in putting holes in tiny pieces of Kydex.
Click to expand...

I send the "truss-head" screws to reduce the gouging as much as possible, works just fine for shorter slots of 7/32 - 1/4" width, and the rubber spacer takes much of the pressure off the kydex but... well, the pics speak for themselves. I think the kydex washer is all that's needed, no need for you to build-out steel inserts?

Anyway, I do have one of those punches, it is indeed what I used to make the holes in most of my second batch of bi-layer extensions and what i used here. The hole-saw bit is an interesting thought... I'll see what I can find. But for now the strips and washers are the pieces left from between the kydex extensions as I cut them out of the sheet-material. I'd been trying to think of things to do with so many little <3" x <0.75" bits of plastic :p
 
Actually got the thought for the inserts while putting my niece in her car seat one day. It has 'em for the belts to slide through and they'd be perfect but for the size. Learned that and also that Thomas the Tank is the greatest thing ever. Ever!

The cutoffs do start to pile up. I've been saving 'em up for single screw FS holders and such. Then there's the slivers. If kydex wedding rings ever become a thing though, I'm set for life.
 
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