Chisel Edge Sharpening

Garage Boy:

Yeah, that one will be a lot of work! But it might be worth the effort for the learning. And with a sharp chisel, you can make wooden scabbards for knives from basswood!

To fix the v grind, you can hold the knife vertically, perpendicular to a stone. Scrub the edge until you have ground away the V'd section. Then you'll have a flat back, a main bevel, and a flat "ledge" or front part, which you want to be an edge. Then you'd sharpen the bevel (skew it to the side, push down on the bevel with a couple fingers while using the other hand to stabilize the knife, and sharpen away. This WILL take a bit of time to re-grind that bevel so that it is thin and at the edge again! Then go ahead and lap the back, then put a microbevel on the chisel. If you have access to any power equipment, I can recommend how you can speed up some steps.

Navy Knifer: Is the Edge Pro best for chisel grinds? Well, overall I think it is the best non-powered sharpening system there is. Especially for something like a CQC-7, it will be a piece of cake. I sharpened my Buck/Strider tanto on the EP easily, since the edge is dead straight. Double ground though :) As I said, since you have the sharpmaker, and assuming you want to sharpen that chisel ground knife as I recommend, all you really need is the sharpmaker, a lapping plate, wet/dry paper, and I recommend a 4000 grit waterstone (though you ould stop with 1500 or 2000 grit wet/dry paper, but the stone will produce a much nicer polished back.) From there you could eventually get an Edge Pro. Or, get the whole works at one time! You eventually will anyways, so why wait??? :)


By the way, I started making knives for 2 main reasons: to learn more about knives, and to sell a few so I could afford the knives I wanted to collect. I'll admit 2 things. Knifemaking is difficult, hard on your hands at times, frustrating on occasion, and can be quite discouraging. Then you finish a knife and go Ahhhhh.... that's what its about.... and you go buy more steel! And you improve a bit, and find new ways to get frustrated, and more people look at your knives, and you learn more, then you spend hours trying to figure out what the heck a slip plain is...

So the moral of the story is, go get some steel, the largest, coarsest quality file you can find, a file card, a fien file, lots of wet/dry sandpaper, a drill (or drill press!!!!), copper/brass/steel/whatever rod, and go to town!
 
Nope, chisel is screwed. I'll get a new one. The V was ground very shallow, so the V extends 1 inch back
 
GB:

wow... I'd get a new one too! Once chisel from Sears shouldn't be too much cash. If I knew of any "inexpensive" chisel ground knvies, I'd love to recommend one of them instead of a chisel, 'cause then you'd have a knife! About the only things I can think of are some chisel ground Japanese kitchen knvies that can be had for around $30 from www.japanwoodworker.com Might be worth a look anyways. Oh, they do have some chisel ground woodworking blades, and a folder too, that might be interesting to pick up. I forgot that I have a chisel ground folder for them, used for marking wood, trimming light wood, etc. Lapping on that one is easy too, since they grind hollows on the flat back side. I did chip the edge though (figured I would from what I was doing with it), so I need to touch that up :)
 
I'll correct myself in regards to what I said earlier about the Belgian Navy knife (just took it out of the glovebox, haven't looked at it in awhile). It appears to be flat ground on both sides. However, it has the sharpening bevel on one side only. Maybe this isn't what would be called a true chisel grind but I believe Crayola's instructions would apply to this blade geometry as well as to the chisel grind, the only difference being when you true up the unbeveled side, the blade will not be parallel to the surface of the stone/sandpaper etc.

Here's a pic: http://www.ragweedforge.com/sailor.jpg

Mike
 
That's like Emerson's V grinds, which is sharpened on one side. I still want a chisel tanto, though
 
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