Chisel/ hollow ground blade

The grinds sure do look good!
Thanks :thumbsup:
6400 SFPM , my trusty jig and old 40 grit ceramic belt .........gone in 30 seconds ;) Finish is from grinder , I have only 40 grit belts :D
I have no idea how much steel I done on this belt .........
W0X8vMM.jpg
 
Must look like the fourth of July under your grinder when you grind! I've been wanting to try a chisel grind but the other side look so plain and unfinished...
 
Must look like the fourth of July under your grinder when you grind! I've been wanting to try a chisel grind but the other side look so plain and unfinished...
Make one , look at it as a tool this time :thumbsup:
I can t take photo fast enough.................... if you not welding you are not grinding ;)
4E4YLgW.jpg
 
How you sharpen them , both sides ? I just sharpened one of this from both sides ................... it's two o'clock after midnight here :D And it cut like any normal knife ?

I only sharpen on the ground side and strop the flat side to remove the burr.

Some people feel that a chisel ground knife pulls to one side or the other when cutting certain materials, but I've never noticed that happening.
 
A chisel grind doesn't exactly "pull" to one side or the other, but it does "push" the cutoff section to the beveled side. In cutting thin slices, like sashimi or ginger, it would be more difficult using a blade with the bevel opposite your dominant hand.
 
I do a ton of hollow chisel grinds, have done several thousand. Go thin at the edge and big on the wheel for best performance.

Zero grind on dominant hand side with reverse microbevel - least steering, super easy to sharpen, relatively aggressive cutter

Zero grind on dominant side with same side microbevel - most aggressive cutter, maybe not quite as easy to sharpen depending on where the plunge is

Non dominant side grinds work the same way but you have to angle the knife into what you cut a bit... at least the way I cut stuff. I'm sure these may work better for some people.


When I say cut aggressively I mean how easily knives of the same sharpness cut into paper/etc with your normal cutting style... they may all be the same sharpness on paper but one will cut much deeper or easier. This is what really got me interested in chisel grinds, I did a near zero grind with same side microbevel... tried to sharpen a pencil and not being used to the knife cut the tip right off!
 
Well , I finished this two for right hand...........Both are 0.20mm behind edge ,one is sharpened from both side on 17 Degree other one only from bevel side on 34 degree .Both are sharpened with 800 grit DMT diamond and both are now hair popping sharp ......... When cutting bread second one steering ...definitely . In wood I can feel how second one want to go deeper in wood and need more power to get deep in wood , first one cut with much less effort .....
But I like them , compared to full flat blade in same thickness and geometry they cut better.............I will make more , on bigger wheel this time .
mvw1uZy.jpg

z4OennY.jpg

mYEYFZi.jpg

rWVX05z.jpg

Wd0w2H6.jpg
 
How you sharpen them , both sides ? I just sharpened one of this from both sides ................... it's two o'clock after midnight here :D And it cut like any normal knife ?
Natlek ... I am no expert on these, but ... look up videos on how to sharpen yanagiba, and also how to sharpen straight razors. They use basically the same procedure, which I was really interested to learn about. It also makes it clear why geometry (distance from edge to spine, and blade thickness) is really important in defining the primary edge angle.

(I’m looking forward to trying that technique when I finish the handle on my in-progress yanagiba, and also on the straight-razor like lame (which are just now going out for HT)
 
Back
Top