Choose a high quality axe

I hope that grain doesn't fully cross the haft. Grain run out is the 2nd biggest cause of haft failure after over strikes.
 
It does run out but comes nearly the full length. A good deal of the grain doesn't run out so we'll see how it fares. I'm guessing it'll do just fine with just a two pound head. Not going to see daily use anyway as I plan to use it for camping which happens at most every other week. If worse comes to worse I'll have a new project on my hands.
My dad's axe, which has been around since I was a lil one, has much worse orientation and run offs than this and is still going strong. He heats with wood in the Adirondacks so it sees a lot of use. I believe he just avoids the knots as I plan on doing as well.
 
Square_peg said:
I hope that grain doesn't fully cross the haft. Grain run out is the 2nd biggest cause of haft failure after over strikes.
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Can't disagree here at all but most ordinary folks are unaware of such deficiencies and as long as the axe is not abused or over-used is not likely to surface as a defect either. And if it happens, by gosh, they then get to rehearse all of the 'ten commandants' of optimum haft selection and re-hanging of an axe so as to truly make it 'theirs'.
 
Thanks MrV, nice shots! If I knew I'd get one like that, might have to go for it.
 
MrVandercar said:
I am not a photographer, obviously.

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Ya done fine. The profile looks really good. I gotta hand it to Omaha Knife for a job well done. The most that could need is a touch up. Likely fine just as it is. And I'm being picky.
 
I still a little stuck. I am leaning towards getting a 16" and a 36", but I am afraid I will find the 36" too much at times and that I may be happier with a 28". Any insight?
 
I think a 28" boys axe is the most useful all around. But if you're getting a hatchet as well then you open up some options. A full size axe is best for felling and splitting. It's also good for clearing large trees from a trail or roadway. A 16"-ish hatchet is good for shaping pegs and poles and making kindling.

Going back to your original post you stated, "It will be mostly used a utility base camp knife. Small to med size trees, delimbing, kindling and some splitting". To me that says boys axe all the way. I would be content clearing a roadway of a 10" tree and limbs with just a boys axe. Much bigger than that I would prefer a full size - though a boys axe would still do - just slower.

The link below is a discussion that I think would help you.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...only-one-axe-(or-only-two-or-only-three-axes)
 
Square_peg said:
I think a 28" boys axe is the most useful all around. But if you're getting a hatchet as well then you open up some options. A full size axe is best for felling and splitting. It's also good for clearing large trees from a trail or roadway. A 16"-ish hatchet is good for shaping pegs and poles and making kindling.

Going back to your original post you stated, "It will be mostly used a utility base camp knife. Small to med size trees, delimbing, kindling and some splitting". To me that says boys axe all the way. I would be content clearing a roadway of a 10" tree and limbs with just a boys axe. Much bigger than that I would prefer a full size - though a boys axe would still do - just slower.

The link below is a discussion that I think would help you.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...only-one-axe-(or-only-two-or-only-three-axes)
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Wow thanks what a great source of information! I have read most of it and I currently working on the axe book by cook. The head is still good on my current axe. I think i will choose to find a few more heads and restore them. I enjoy sharpening and restoring old well built time travelers and I look forward to re hanging my first axe. I figure I can almost do my whole collection for under what a new premium axe would cost. Thanks for this thread and I hope to contribute my projects to a thread of their own in a future update!
 
Sharpski said:
I think i will choose to find a few more heads and restore them. I enjoy sharpening and restoring old well built time travelers and I look forward to re hanging my first axe. I figure I can almost do my whole collection for under what a new premium axe would cost.
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There's absolutely no better way to go!
 
Amen!! I have GB Scandi and I love it.

I also just finished a Plumb refurb on a vintage handle. Every time I walk in the basement I have to pick it up. Not only is it an excellent tool- I OWN it, I know what it was when I got it and what it is now. There is a special satisfaction that comes with that. The GB is an excellent tool and I will never part with it but this little Plumb just stole my heart.

I have over 40 axes and heads in need of reburbs or handles. This might take some time....

Bill
 
Sharpski said:
I have read most of it and I currently working on the axe book by cook.
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That's a very good book - loads of useful info. Great ideas I'd never thought of. But don't take it for gospel. He makes a few glaring errors.
 
Want to try a velvicut having 1 Gransfors Scandinavia axe which is superb but pricey. While camping I enjoy my Gransfors hatchets, a small hatchet and a hand hatchet. Great quality with Gransfors.
 
I own 4 Gransfors - the scandi, small forest, wildlife and mini. I guess I also own a 3.5 lb double bit and 2.5 lb cruiser, but those are vintages heads I've restored and re-hung and don't really count. What I can say based on my experience is that GB makes great tools with amazing fit and finish, nice sharp edge profiles out of the box, and that their heat treat is superb. Despite all this praise however, I have to say that they're really somewhat lackluster outside of the bushcraft role. The american felling axe might be different, but I'm referring strictly to the ones I own. The profiles are quite thin and the bit is completely flat with no hint of a high-centerline. This means that while the penetration can be fairly decent, it has a tendency to bind in the wood. For its intended usage with lower diameter pines and other light wood, it's fine. Larger diameter hardwoods the axes tend to struggle with. I tried using my GB scandi to fall a 8" limb off of our cherry tree that had rotted off at the top and it took quite a good deal of time and effort. Part of that was the awkward angle I had to use on the back cut (was very close to another limb) and another was the flimsy wine rack I used to get up to the limb. It was a blast but looking back on it, I know I could have done the work in about half to a third of the time with a different axe.

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That all said, if you know its limits and are working with predominantly pines and similarly soft wood, the scandi is a great choice especially when you go to do finer, bushcrafty tasks thereafter. If your primary concern isn't bushcraft but woodprocessing (hardwoods at that), you're better off going with a more traditonal american style axe with the thicker bit and high centerline for easier release.

For your intended use though, a boy's axe sounds great. A 2.5 lb on a 28" haft is amazing in its ability to do lighter tasks while still being able to process wood admirably. If you're willing to carry two axes though, you can maybe up that to a 3 to 3.5 lb head on a 30-32" handle with a good, sharp hatchet to take care of fine tasks. As it stands, my current favorite loadout is a GB wildlife hatchet for the belt and a 3 lb Jersey Keen Kutter on 31" handle for a general purpose axe.
 
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