Recommendation? Choosing a Folder!

Loads to think about now! Thanks everyone
In the realm of carbon vs stainless I'm not fussed too much either way as I'm capable of maintaining the knife when I am using it regularly but I have been leaning more toward a stainless for stain and corrosion resistance as I am in a coastal area.

Going with your (OP) selections so far, I would go PM2 either s30v or 110v would be great, however if I were in your situation working on a ranch/farm and in that size range I would go Bradford Guardian 3 (or 3.5) in M390 or 3v. It's a fixed blade but very easy to carry, i'm a folder guy myself but if I had to use my knife all day in a ranch or farm environment for fairly heavy tasks I would just use a fixed blade.

Yes I have considered a fixed blade and fully intend to purchase one as well at some stage to use in rotation with a folder. Pretty much the same requirements for use as the folder, it'll get used fairly hard. I do however have a thing about large knives jabbing into me when I bend over or sit down so would be looking at something that has a small footprint or can be carried on a belt horizontally or diagonally or something. Kydex or similar sheath preferably for durability and easy to wash out and clean.
 
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Wow, what a can of worms to open. But here we go...

Looking at purchasing a new EDC, general purpose, fairly hardish use (uh oh another can of worms) folder. I'm one of those guys who spends more time than is probably necessary researching possible options and ends up going in circles. So, i need help deciding on and would like some additional input on knife choices. I know there is an endless amount of options but...

A basic rundown:
Work environment - Farm/ranch.
Usual knife tasks - Cutting rope/string, opening bags/sacks (made out of a plastic kind of canvas material), opening packages/boxes.
Will also need the knife to sometimes cut things like - zip/cable ties, hard plastic packaging.
Additional - although i don't treat my equipment badly, i don't want to be scared to use this knife fairly roughly and cut into tougher materials than just cardboard and paper.

Personal preferences:
Prefer clip/drop/spear points over tanto blades etc
plain edge
blade length under 4inch or under (dont like lugging a large knife around on my pants all day)
easy cleaning/maintenance
I prefer not to have to be constantly sharpening knives, so edge retention is a big positive but not at the cost of toughness as occasionally it will see some tougher use. Having said that i know that regular edge honing goes a long way. I just want a knife that will be sharp and durable!

I applaud you in getting this far if you have. My picks so far have been
Spyderco Para Military 2 (s30v, s110v)
Spyderco Para 3 (s30v, s110v)
Particularly like the simplistic design and ease of cleaning on these knives.

I was interested in and have been leaning toward s110v steel but i am unsure if it may be a little more brittle than s30v in some circumstances? Possibly s110v may be better with a rougher ground edge than s30v with a more polished edge?
Also i am not sure that i've gone too far down one line of thinking with steel and ruled out other good steels.
Thanks for reading if you had the patience, its greatly appreciated!
Traditional : the DLTtrading exclusive buck 110 in s30v rosewood with a drop point blade love mine! ($90) great deal imo

More of a modern folder ZT 0566 s35vn remove the assist and it flips perfect. Hinderer design so you'll know it'll preform your hard use tasks well and good ergos for those tasks. ($144)
 
Buck 110 & Victorinox Farmer.
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One of the new USA real leather sheaths! They're great
 
Loads to think about now! Thanks everyone
In the realm of carbon vs stainless I'm not fussed too much either way as I'm capable of maintaining the knife when I am using it regularly but I have been leaning more toward a stainless for stain and corrosion resistance as I am in a coastal area.



Yes I have considered a fixed blade and fully intend to purchase one as well at some stage to use in rotation with a folder. Pretty much the same requirements for use as the folder, it'll get used fairly hard. I do however have a thing about large knives jabbing into me when I bend over or sit down so would be looking at something that has a small footprint or can be carried on a belt horizontally or diagonally or something. Kydex or similar sheath preferably for durability and easy to wash out and clean.


Take a look at the Cold Steel Ultimate Hunter and the Benchmade Crooked river. These two are my favorite clip point and drop point folders. Both will stand up to your intended use. The CS Ultimate is the strongest and imo lowest maintenance lock in the planet. The BM Crooked River is an incredible knife. I have used both of them hard for anything from cutting carpet, to skinning a buck/hog. They will not let you down!!
 
The upcoming coated pm2 with M4 is what you want for realz!

Sticking to the script para 2 S30V
 
Is this a dig at carbon steel? Much better to carry it daily, so you can be aware of its condition and take the easy steps necessary to ward off rust. It is more likely to rust if it sits on a shelf, unattended.

Not having a dig at carbon steel. I own a lot of it. I just saw the OP's environment and thought stainless knives were a better choice.
 
If you don’t mind M4, (I understand that you’re coastal), the Gayle Bradley 1 fits your description perfectly. I call the GB my ranch folder.

My friend is a rancher/farmer and he didn’t fare too well with a Pm2 s35v. Chipped the blade pretty bad in a few places. He bought the GB and has had better luck so far. He can be hard on knives sometimes.

The GB2 would work fine also, and it’s cheaper
 
I've been looking for an EDC for the same uses. After much research and indecision, I finally decided and just recently purchased a Benchmade 940 Osborne. It was beyond my original budget, but it ticked all the right boxes. Here are some of the reasons I chose it:

Good luck to you. There are LOTS of good knives out there that provide a lot of value for the dollar.

P.S.: This is my very first post here on BF.

I have NEVER read a more-informed FIRST POST.
Stick around, sir. You have a lot to offer the folks here.
Welcome to the herd.
 
Para2 is my overall favorite folder, quite robust.
You may find a Manix 2 suits your harder use requirements, and although some find it to be a pocket hog I highly recommend a Manix 2 XL.

Check out a Benchmade 950 Rift, love mine, got a lot going for it as a general workhorse folder.
154CM has a great balance of edge holding/ease of sharpening. There's an S30V version available at the moment, though it's a bit expensive.
 
Going with your (OP) selections so far, I would go PM2 either s30v or 110v would be great, however if I were in your situation working on a ranch/farm and in that size range I would go Bradford Guardian 3 (or 3.5) in M390 or 3v. It's a fixed blade but very easy to carry, i'm a folder guy myself but if I had to use my knife all day in a ranch or farm environment for fairly heavy tasks I would just use a fixed blade.

Right up my alley. I have carried a Bradford Guardian 3 for over one year now...in the Bradford-included leather cross-draw sheath. I have continued to carry my usual high-dollar clipped folder in my rh pocket, but have seldom pulled it out to use it. The cross-draw fixed is so easy, so instantly available, so capable...that it has completely displaced my folder and made it seem superfluous. I've owned about eight or so G3's...and have gifted or resold a few. I have used them in M390, CPM-3V and...lately...Vanadis 4E tool steel. I have about three "setups" now that include my Bradfords, a Jarrett Fleming custom fixed...and a highly-customized SurviveKnife GSO 2.7...all in leather cross-draw belt-rigs.
I am including a pic or two of the cross-draw rigs. After several hundred folders, this is what I have come to...just my own opinion, of course. You will also see my Wilson/CRK Sebenza "Starbenza"...which I recently sold as it was just not being used any more.
Bradford Guardian 3.jpg EDC's2.jpg Survive2.7 and Horsewright.jpg Vanadis 4E Super Clean1.jpg
 
Check out the manix, I think it is a good competitor to the para 2 or 3 and I like the lock better. (but i use knives left handed) It also just feels like a tougher knife overall. As others have said the buck 10 and 12 are classic hard use knives and would be a good choice but maybe a pain to clean. The manix can also be a pain to take apart for the first couple times, but once you get the hang of it its not bad at all. They are easy to adjust for good action, blade centering, and lock up, which I have heard the PM2 can be finicky going back together. Don't own one though so take that with a grain of salt. Im disabled and just go to school and make knives, and my manix is my go to work knife. Even when it gets filled with metal the action is still good, and when it gets really bad I can just wash it out with soap and water. I wouldn't discount the lightweight version in s110v either. I think that knife would still be plenty strong.
Another couple knives I have found to be close to indestructible are the ontario rat 1 and my case trapper. The rat 1 comes in d2 now which is a good steel (if not great), some of the best if not best ergos I have ever felt on a knife, solid construction that is easy enough to clean but can be finicky to put back together if you are not careful how you put the washers back in.
The case trapper is a slipjoint but hear me out!!! I have used this thing for going on 8 years and never even came close to it closing on my fingers, and I have used it pretty hard. It is the best cutting knife I own and cases cv steel holds a surprisingly good working edge for a pretty dang good time. Oh and you get two blades so if one goes dull you have another!!!
The final knife I will recommend is the benchmade griptilian. I have not used mine hard yet but for just general edc tasks it out performs almost every other knife cutting wise. It has a thick blade but it cuts so dang good. Construction I think is still VERY adequate, despite the plastic handles. Not to mention the amazing action.
A side note on steels, I have used s30v, d2, cases cv (basically some sort of 1095) vg10, and 8cr for relatively hard use in cutting abrasive materials including sandpaper, wood, rope, leather, thick cardboard, thick rubbery foam, and scraping epoxy. I honestly can not tell a huge difference in edge retention between them, but I would say s30v and cases cv holds the best working edge, meaning going the longest before it wont grab my thumbnail. For my normal tasks benchmades 154cm holds an edge the best but as I said before I have not cut super abrasive materials with it.
The only knife I have with a super steel is a zt in cts204[, but its kind of a safe queen so I dont have experience with how it performs. I can just say it strops up really good.
Since I tend to make long rambling posts that may or may not be insightful, I will now spam you with pictures of my work knives and maybe it will make up for it.:rolleyes:
Just cut up some foam for my kydex press.. probably 5 feet of easy to cut stuff that just had some glue making it a little tough, then two feet of kydex foam, probably the hardest stuff I have ever tried to cut. Knife was pretty dull afterward but it sharpened up in a few minutes
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Here is my manix again covered in epoxy after working on some customs
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This is old faithful. Probably my most used knife, still has decent action and no blade play. Idk how it has survived this long.Only problem I have had with it is the shield fell out and I had to glue it back in. (note that the secondary blade has been cut off into a wharnie, this was a mod I did to use it to cut leather, case does not make a knife with these blades.
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this is how dirty my knives tend to get
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Not one of my heavy users but this is still a great knife.
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Ok, having actually owned and worked a small ranch/farm, I will tell you my experiences and you can take it for what it is worth. I found that liner and frame locks do not stand up to demanding chores as well as a good back lock. The back lock is the strongest knife lock as long as you clean the tang where the bar claw hooks into it.

I found that the older Buck 110's worked well as long as you were careful of the clip point. The blade grind was thicker on the earlier models. Today, I would choose a Manix 2, and I prefer the back lock, but the Caged Ball Lock is also very strong. It is also far lighter than the 110. The S30V is nice and it is a LOT easier to sharpen than S110V or S90V. To me, the small amount of edge holding advantage is not enough to offset this. There is a 52100 carbon steel version exclusive at knifeworks.com with a DLC blade coating so rust will not be an issue. This carbon steel is very tough and this might me my number one choice as it would be very rugged, hold a decent edge, and be tough. Still, I like the Manix 2 Back Lock and it is a bit more hand filling.

I find the P2 to be a bit small for my large hands. It is a great knife, the Manix 2 fits my hand better.

here are my picks:

https://www.knifeworks.com/spyderco...l-black-plain-blade-knifeworks-exclusive.html

https://www.knifeworks.com/spyderco-c101mbgp2-manix-2-backlock-3-37-cpm-s30v-g-10-handle.html

I have the back lock version and it is stellar, but the 52100 is sorely tempting me.

On the farm, I would pair these with a stockman pocket knife or a Victorinox Pioneer or even a Recruit or something. Nothing big.
 
The back lock is the strongest knife lock as long as you clean the tang where the bar claw hooks into it.

How difficult do you usually find taking apart or just cleaning that area?

2 Questions
Would the axis lock etc be much of an issue with gloves? Part of my leaning to the PM2 was gloved use.
Has anyone had any experience with M390/20CV or even elmax?
 
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Elmax is a good hard use steel very tough not prone to chipping and such takes a small hit to edge retention but just as good as s30v in retention imo. Love it on my ZT 0561. But m390 and 20cv not yet
 
I can see this quickly turning into a steel thread which, whilst i love it and it satisfies the research nerd in me, is not the exact intent of my post haha. But by all means keep the information coming, its proving most helpful and if nothing else, it is making my inner research nerd very happy.
 
Two Spyderco Delicas and a Sharpmaker for the same money. Just my opinion. Don't own a Para, but I love the size, weight, function of the Delica, fits great in the pocket clipped. I'm sure the Para is great, just don't overlook the Spyderco "little brothers". I don't think the VG10 is a lightweight in performance. Use the Sharpmaker to touch it up once a week and you should be good to go.
 
How difficult do you usually find taking apart or just cleaning that area?

2 Questions
Would the axis lock etc be much of an issue with gloves? Part of my leaning to the PM2 was gloved use.
Has anyone had any experience with M390/20CV or even elmax?

Cleaning is a matter of a toothpick or twig.
The PM2 is not the most glove friendly knife because of the lock. That tiny tab is hard to use with gloves. The back lock or CBBL Manix are easy to use with gloves. The axis lock is fairly easy to use with gloves, but not as easy as the other two. There is actually a video demonstrating that on Youtube, somewhere.

Let me add that the Manix 2 BL has a thicker blade spine than the standard Manix but it tapers down to a fine cutting edge. It is very robust. The standard blade is no weak sister, however. Both are incredible slicers.
 
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