Choosing Needles and Thread for Hand Stitching.

TheWeatherman said:
Is there any reason that sewing machine thread like the #207 or even the #277 shouldn't be used for hand stitching?

I hand stitch my lining with #69 machine thread. I like the outcome.

I have been contemplating the same question as the OP. I think I might try the #277 for hand stitching.
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On the rare occasion that I hand stitch, (I have two sewing machines, a flat bed and a heavy stitcher) I always use the same thread that I use through the machines 346, 277 138 or 69 depending on the job at hand. It works well for me. it is the same thread that goes through the machine so logic would say it would work just fine regardless of the sewing method. (Once the thread is sewn in, I don't really think it knows how it got there.;))

Paul
 
TheWeatherman said:
Is there any reason that sewing machine thread like the #207 or even the #277 shouldn't be used for hand stitching?

I hand stitch my lining with #69 machine thread. I like the outcome.

I have been contemplating the same question as the OP. I think I might try the #277 for hand stitching.
Click to expand...
Its not that is shouldn't be used, its that its more difficult to deal with when hand stitching. The bonded thread that is popular with the heavier machines is very slick (for a reason that it is smoother through the mechanism) that slickness makes it want to slip as your stitching. It does not want to stay tight. This alone makes it maddening to use without a little beeswax to give it some bite.

This past year I've been using it a lot in re-stitching what the machine wants to leave skipped stitches on, that means everything in that time period. The overwhelming complaint I have in using machine thread is the slick nature. One of the nice things about bonded thread is it doesn't fray as easily, it does fray though, but not nearly as easy as unbonded thread. I do much prefer the unbonded thread for hand stitching though. A little beeswax and your good to go. Much preferable over the constant worry and keeping the thread taught so it wont loosen up.
 
I just use the machine thread since it comes in a bazillion colors, You gotta wax it but that only takes a few minutes to do a 1lb spool. Find a local bee keeper and he will sell you a gigantic pile of wax for cheap. I just set the spool on a dowel, tie the other end to the burnisher motor, put the wax in the middle and turn it on, turbo waxer.
 
Sky - that sounds like a finger looser in my hands. I am not to be trusted with moving parts. Paul always mentions machines - truth is - I would stitch myself to every sheath I got my hands on with a machine. ;)

TF
 
Paul - thats what I was thinking.

Dwayne - that is a good point. I have noticed that the stitches like to come loose but I never thought that it wasn't because there wasn't wax on the thread. I will have to try the wax thing.

Skystorm - great idea.
 
Yea, the smallest harness needle Tandy carries is the 0. I mostly use the 000 and 0 for hand stitching as any smaller looks funny on my work. If its supposed to be "bulletproof" I use the 000 with the nice thick Tejas thread and am careful with the wax. Smaller inlays and such get the smaller gauge thread and needles just because it looks smoother and is still plenty hefty.

This is simply because I make working leather, not safe queens. I want that sheath to stand up to abuse, the thread also has to stand up to hard use, cut stitches, and rubbing abuse. I like over built.

An easy remedy to the over waxed spools, just take a nice rough cloth (canvas, or the likes) and run the thread through it fast a few times and viola! Easier than going through the spools at the store.
 
The 002 in England is the same as the Tandy 0 - I know that.


Dwayne - I run my thread through my needle at a tangent and let it strip off some of the wax - and then stitch. ;)

TF
 
That works! :D

Some kind of shy away from the Tejas thread, but its some of the strongest thread I have ever used. The way my hands have hardened up through hand sewing since 1996 I can pull this thread so tight that it pulls through ten ounce leather. Done it a few more times than I'd ever admit. :p

I just wish it came in more colors. I need red especially, that stuff you found is looking rather promising!
 
I would have contributed sooner to this thread but faced a "blue screen of death" computer issue at the end of November.


Although a lot of the questions have been answered, here are a few other links that might prove useful.



At 3:40 in his video, Nigel Armitage recommends using 002 harness needles (1.02mm in diameter and 55 mm in length).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGuiha5S2oE


This site gives needle size information.
http://www.ponyneedles.com/english/sewing_specs.htm

I couldn't find any harness needles locally so using the information above, I purchased #3 cotton darners, clipped and rounded the ends, and they seem to work fine.

***

The braided thread is supposed to be "flattish" and not perfectly round. I was lucky enough to get a spool from a friend who happened to have some.
But had I not stumbled onto that source, I was about to try this cord from Lee Valley:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/garden/page.aspx?p=32009&cat=2,51553,32009

I had called them and they told me it was "flattish"...BUT I HAVE NOT SEEN IT IN PERSON TO CONFIRM IF IT IS GOOD FOR OUR PURPOSES...will order a spool next time I place a order though.
 
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