Chopped Steel

J

JamesPEmmons

Joined
Sep 3, 2008
Messages
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Hello everyone,

I am looking for suggestion on what steel to make a chopper/camp knife from. The knife will have a 10" blade around 1-3/4" from edge to spine at the widest point. It will see a lot of chopping, but mainly soft wood saplings.

I know 5160 would work, but I would like a little more edge retention. So I have been thinking about 1084 with and edge quench. Maybe I could get a nice quench line/hamon.

Please let me know what you all think,

James
 
I use A2, very nice tool steel. Gets really sharp and will hold a great edge. Is air hardening so no edge quench or hamon
 
Thank you Pat!

I guess I should not rule out air-hardened steel, as I will have to make a new HT kiln for this knife anyways. My current temperature control gas forge is not long enough to do a knife this long.

Anyone else have a suggestion?
 
For forging, CruForgeV.

For stock removal, CPM3V.

For the application you describe, 1084 won't have better edge retention than 5160.
 
Matt,

Thank you, the CPM3V sound interesting. How difficult is it to heat treat, I would want to do this myself? It is a carbon steel, does it hold up better to rust then O1, A2, W2?

Don,

I would love to use some W2, but I am a stock removal guy for now. I have no way of reducing that giant stuff you have. A press is in the future, but there is a HT oven and mill on the list in front of it. In fact I have about 600 pounds of 52100 that I can't use right now becuase I don't have a way to reduce it.

Thanks,

James
 
Crucible Steel CPM3V data sheet

If you can't heat treat it in-house, and wish to try the steel anyway, I'll heat treat if for you, or we'll find someone else to do. it in your neck of the woods.

As far as rust resistance, it isn't. None of the tool steels are. No biggie, at least to me. So long as you wipe the darn things off when you're done, it should never be a problem.

Any steel with a higher concentration of carbides (particularly vanadium or tungsten) can offer lots of challenges to finishing after hardening - higher wear resistance, go figure! 3V is nasty stuff, in this regard. Something to consider.
 
CruForgeV was meant to be heat treated by bladesmiths, and is very easy to use and get great results with a minimum of controls. I'm just finishing the handle on an 11.5" bladed chopper with the stuff, and its a dream to work with. Tough, too. AND CHEAP!!!!! If this was one of my first chopper projects, it would be my choice.
 
this is probably heresy of the highest order,but.... i am new at this and i want to start out by buying a kit from texas knife-making supply. many of their blades are of 440,6a,8aus(?) any reccommendations? i kinda want to make a knife with a wood handle and make grips for my new model vaqueros to match for cowboy action shooting. haven't found scales wide enough for pistol grips,yet. all suggestions appreciated,and again i apologise for not knowing anything.
 
manassas dragon said:
this is probably heresy of the highest order,but.... i am new at this and i want to start out by buying a kit from texas knife-making supply. many of their blades are of 440,6a,8aus(?) any reccommendations? i kinda want to make a knife with a wood handle and make grips for my new model vaqueros to match for cowboy action shooting. haven't found scales wide enough for pistol grips,yet. all suggestions appreciated,and again i apologise for not knowing anything.
Click to expand...
Please try and find a carbon steel blade. A stainless blade has no business at a cowboy action shoot. None at all :)
 
Matt,

Again thank you for the information and the offer. 3V looks like a great chopped steel. I need to build my HT oven and some quench plates anyways. Now I just need to find a supplier of 3V in 1/4" x 2" wide. Do you have any suggestions?

James
 
Niagara Specialty Metals... they'll likely have the stuff in stock soon. Try Crucible in Texas, too.
 
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