Chopper grip

No choppers in my world but plenty of axe work. If the axe handle has a small knob than one has to hold on tight which ends up providing less power to the swing and more vibration to the hand. With a knob that has sufficient flare one does not have to hold on with a death grip providing much better performance and less fatigue.
 
I just got in 2 pieces of 5"x10" ultrex SureTouch, great stuff. I've got several knives I'm going to use it on after the first one I did a few weeks ago, the grip is amazing on it. I did a random rock pattern on the coke bottle handle for a friend and he LOVES the grip it provides.

When I read this I thought that this product would be perfect for providing an extra grippy grip.
 
A.McPherson said:
S Seedy Lot , so you're saying that everyone needs a big knob to hold onto?
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I think it's more that, if you have a small knob there's bound to be more fatigue with vigorous movement. The bigger your knob, the less fatigue.
Which I guess is what I was saying a couple posts ago
 
Automobile tire works as well and is much easier to source. Grip shape is an interesting thing, a sledge hammer and an axe (in splitting) are used in an arguably similar fashion but traditionally have very different handle shapes. Grip strength and proper technique are responsible for tool retention in many swinging tools but it definitely helps to have a Birds head/fawn foot to fall back on when you get fatigued.
 
JoeBusic said:
Tops tested Suretouch for a year or two and abandoned it. Rubber is not good for the hand. And it deteriorates with years. Sometimes less than 3 years.
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Competition choppers are racers, like F1, not a pick up truck, I don't need it to last years, I just need it to last a few minutes, but those few minutes need to be extremely efficient. (that's not what she said)
 
I just know I saw a thread here last month or so, and everyone was talking about how great sure touch was for grip.

I haven't used it, so I can't vouch for it, but it sounds like a good choice for a knife like that.
 
Blankblank said:
I just know I saw a thread here last month or so, and everyone was talking about how great sure touch was for grip.

I haven't used it, so I can't vouch for it, but it sounds like a good choice for a knife like that.
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I have one knife with it, and held others.....

From what I read, it would be better for hunters and skinners. It's almost too grippy for a chopper?

Teroturf is an interesting "feel" too.
Almost like dense, grippy felt.

Idk what a comp chopper needs? I'm sure it's not the same as a woods Beater.

I am a person who knows the shape and size is more important than the texture.
For a handle.
 
PMQ said:
Competition choppers are racers, like F1, not a pick up truck, I don't need it to last years, I just need it to last a few minutes, but those few minutes need to be extremely efficient. (that's not what she said)
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So, no training and fanatical approach to the sport! OK, there is something for you. An electrical tape. Not the plastic one, the rubber one. It stretches and when wrapped around something it will want to shrink. When shrinking it will weld itself. It is grippy a lot and can endure a lot. To remove, it has to be cut and stripped. Cheap and easy.
 
JoeBusic said:
So, no training and fanatical approach to the sport! OK, there is something for you. An electrical tape. Not the plastic one, the rubber one. It stretches and when wrapped around something it will want to shrink. When shrinking it will weld itself. It is grippy a lot and can endure a lot. To remove, it has to be cut and stripped. Cheap and easy.
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I use silicone wrap.
I put it on quite a few SYKCO handles because they are too small, and the wrap fills my hand more.
Works good.
 
how about a leather strand twisted like a rope around the handle..
then overlap another thin piece of leather over that.. kind of like how some "Medieval Swords" were done..
that way you get both Texture & Grip.. just thinking out load before my coffee.....
 
Maybe i didn't read closely, but I have seen a guy on YT use a hockey tape for better grip. However I would agree with others that a good size and shape of the handle are more important then the material itself.
 
If you make a blade with a forward lanyard, make sure there are no holes in the ricasso. I believe any hole forward of the handle scales is a no-no. I also believe that there must be a visible pin/bolt to show proof of mechanical bond. A flare at the butt end of the handle and a proper indexing shape will keep it from twisting or sliding.... that forward lanyard is fantastic for security.
 
JoeBusic said:
no training and fanatical approach to the sport
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Actually, I did a lot of training, chopping tennis balls, table tennis balls, straws, beer cans,.... I know that bladesport is 20% the blade and 80% the skill, I didn't win not because my chopper was bad, I lost because my skill was bad. The bad grip on my chopper is only one element, not a big one I might add.

What I was trying to say was: Tops tried Suretouch then decided not to use it, I don't think it's because Suretouch is bad, just that for survival knives, Tops needed something that rugged and durable, might provide less grip but last longer. Or maybe it's a logistic or production problem, I don't know.
 
Usually I make the lanyard hole at the butt of the tang, but this time I tried forward lanyard, also adjusting the length of the lanyard, it helps securing so much.
 
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