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Overall which is better?
Which has the best steel?
Which has the best steel?
Chris Reeves Vs Randall Hollow handle knives
- Thread starter backpacker
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not2sharp
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Tom,
It's two pieces. Don't forget the screw on butt cap.
Sooner or later you will probably want to buy both. I like the CRK, I think it has a better sheath, the smaller guard tends to stay out of the way, and A2 is a good hunk of steel. The Randall though is more than tough enough, it is available in stainless, and the blade is a little wider which may provide a very small edge on the edge (pun intended).
BTW, I wouldn't worry too much about handle separation. It doesn't appear to be a big issue with the Randalls; and it is not relevant to the CRK.
It's two pieces. Don't forget the screw on butt cap.
Sooner or later you will probably want to buy both. I like the CRK, I think it has a better sheath, the smaller guard tends to stay out of the way, and A2 is a good hunk of steel. The Randall though is more than tough enough, it is available in stainless, and the blade is a little wider which may provide a very small edge on the edge (pun intended).
BTW, I wouldn't worry too much about handle separation. It doesn't appear to be a big issue with the Randalls; and it is not relevant to the CRK.
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I really like Randall knives, but their hollow handle knife leaves me cold.
I've compared the Reeves and Randall hollow handle knives up close, the Reeves is the finer crafted knife.
I've compared the Reeves and Randall hollow handle knives up close, the Reeves is the finer crafted knife.
Originally posted by not2sharp:
Tom,
It's two pieces. Don't forget the screw on butt cap.
well, not2sharp, Tom did get it right..that "2nd" piece is made out of aluminum
forgot to cast my vote for the CRK one piece line....His Mark V (#47)from South Africa was my first custom back in 87
[This message has been edited by kawanin (edited 05-05-2001).]
I have yet to find a hollow handle knife that offers the CRK One Piece level of performance and quality at its pricepoint.
A-2 steel is a very good using knife steel. A-2 tends to get lost in all the talk of super steels. In the world of steels used in knife making, A-2 is one of better ones out there - especially when heat treated properly like CRK does it.
I have sold some One Piece knives that went to very hard users. I was not concerned when I shipped them that they would fail in any way to meet the owners expectations. These knives lived up to their name in their hands.
With all that praise for the virtues of the CRK One Piece, a couple things to keep in mind. If your hands are soft like mine from sitting at a desk too much, the grip of the One Piece line may be too abrasive to your hands after prolonged usuage - take a pair of gloves with you for the serious work. Left in the hot Arizona sun, that steel grip surface can get a tad warm
so, again heed the advice about a good pair of gloves.
Something else to consider besides the obvious features of the knife is the beuaty in its design. You can look at these knives like you would a fine sculpture - they are that beautiful, at least to my eye.
Surely I am not the only one looks at a knife as a piece of funtional art with a piece of the knifemakers soul in it
Stay Sharp,
Sid
A-2 steel is a very good using knife steel. A-2 tends to get lost in all the talk of super steels. In the world of steels used in knife making, A-2 is one of better ones out there - especially when heat treated properly like CRK does it.
I have sold some One Piece knives that went to very hard users. I was not concerned when I shipped them that they would fail in any way to meet the owners expectations. These knives lived up to their name in their hands.
With all that praise for the virtues of the CRK One Piece, a couple things to keep in mind. If your hands are soft like mine from sitting at a desk too much, the grip of the One Piece line may be too abrasive to your hands after prolonged usuage - take a pair of gloves with you for the serious work. Left in the hot Arizona sun, that steel grip surface can get a tad warm
Something else to consider besides the obvious features of the knife is the beuaty in its design. You can look at these knives like you would a fine sculpture - they are that beautiful, at least to my eye.
Surely I am not the only one looks at a knife as a piece of funtional art with a piece of the knifemakers soul in it
Stay Sharp,
Sid
Cliff Stamp
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Bill, what is that based on? The materials references I have read for O1 and A2 put O1 significantly higher than A2 in regards to impact toughness, both uniformly hardened.
-Cliff
-Cliff
Bronco
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Cliff,
My statement was made based on data taken from Crucible's Web site. Here's the link:
http://www.crucibleservice.com/coldftol.htm
More specific information published by Crucible lists their O1 as possessing a Charpy C-Notch toughness of 30 ft-lbs at an HRC of 58 to 60, while their A2 has a Charpy C-Notch toughness of 41 ft-lbs at an HRC of 60.
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Semper Fi
-Bill
[This message has been edited by Bronco (edited 05-08-2001).]
My statement was made based on data taken from Crucible's Web site. Here's the link:
http://www.crucibleservice.com/coldftol.htm
More specific information published by Crucible lists their O1 as possessing a Charpy C-Notch toughness of 30 ft-lbs at an HRC of 58 to 60, while their A2 has a Charpy C-Notch toughness of 41 ft-lbs at an HRC of 60.
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Semper Fi
-Bill
[This message has been edited by Bronco (edited 05-08-2001).]
sevenedges
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With out a doubt Chris Reeve makes the finest hollow handle survival knives in the world. As far as I'm concerned there is no second place. Wait... yeah there is. We'll give that to Reeve as well. You just can't beat the one piece design.
Later, jeff
Later, jeff
backpacker,
There's a thread on the Reeves forum, the title is edge retention or something. It addresses only Reeves one piece line.
I haven't used the Randall survival knife but carried one for a few years (carbon steel) and now use a Project 1 on occasion.
I sold the Randall and replaced it with a Ruana (later more
) as I found the Ruana superior.
The ergonomics will vary to individual. The issue of corrosion on the Reeves A-2 is not as big a problem as some people make it out to be. I've carried used in Okinawa, Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia, Liberia, Sierra Leone, Cameroon, Central African Republic, the Congos, and both Central/South America. The edge does turn blue but no serious corrosion. The Ruanas will corrode far easier and I generally use the where the humidity is low and/or can put more maint. time into them.
The place where the Randall is superior is the sheath, see the thread for the Reeves comments. The Randall is up there with the Ruanas sheath wise. I would love a sheath for my Project I that was of similar quality, had pouches for a Spyderco two sided hone, a magnesium fire starter.
There's a thread on the Reeves forum, the title is edge retention or something. It addresses only Reeves one piece line.
I haven't used the Randall survival knife but carried one for a few years (carbon steel) and now use a Project 1 on occasion.
I sold the Randall and replaced it with a Ruana (later more
The ergonomics will vary to individual. The issue of corrosion on the Reeves A-2 is not as big a problem as some people make it out to be. I've carried used in Okinawa, Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia, Liberia, Sierra Leone, Cameroon, Central African Republic, the Congos, and both Central/South America. The edge does turn blue but no serious corrosion. The Ruanas will corrode far easier and I generally use the where the humidity is low and/or can put more maint. time into them.
The place where the Randall is superior is the sheath, see the thread for the Reeves comments. The Randall is up there with the Ruanas sheath wise. I would love a sheath for my Project I that was of similar quality, had pouches for a Spyderco two sided hone, a magnesium fire starter.
Cliff Stamp
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Bill :
I have the A2 charpy value on the CPM-3V spec sheet, where did you get the value for O1? For reference, Bill Bryson in "Heat Treatment, Selection and Application of Tool Steels", gives a much higher value for the impact toughness of O1 over A2.
Based on the alloy content it doesn't make much sense to me for A2 to have a higher toughness than O1 which is just a little off of 1095. As well I have heard from a few makers who I would judge not to be engaging in hype that O1 is a very tough steel. Anyone with experience (maker or user) with O1 and A2 care to comment?
-Cliff
[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 05-10-2001).]
I have the A2 charpy value on the CPM-3V spec sheet, where did you get the value for O1? For reference, Bill Bryson in "Heat Treatment, Selection and Application of Tool Steels", gives a much higher value for the impact toughness of O1 over A2.
Based on the alloy content it doesn't make much sense to me for A2 to have a higher toughness than O1 which is just a little off of 1095. As well I have heard from a few makers who I would judge not to be engaging in hype that O1 is a very tough steel. Anyone with experience (maker or user) with O1 and A2 care to comment?
-Cliff
[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 05-10-2001).]
Bronco
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Hi Cliff,
I have a copy of a publication Crucible puts out which they refer to as their "Tool Steel and Specialty Alloy Selector". Here they address each steel they produce individually and provide information on typical applications, heat treating instructions, hardening data, appropriate surface treatments and other physical properties.
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Semper Fi
-Bill
I have a copy of a publication Crucible puts out which they refer to as their "Tool Steel and Specialty Alloy Selector". Here they address each steel they produce individually and provide information on typical applications, heat treating instructions, hardening data, appropriate surface treatments and other physical properties.
------------------
Semper Fi
-Bill
SALTY
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Steel composition, impact resistance, hardness, toughness, blah, blah, blah.
I'm no metalurgist or chemist or scientist or engineer, but I've spent a good bit of time outdoors with things that shoot or cut. I know what works, albeit for me, and what doesn't.
If you are looking for a hollow handle field knife for hard use and dependable service, look no further than Chris Reeve. I know that A2 is a carbon steel and take care of it accordingly.
All the techno-babble referenced in my first paragragh is probably important but I don't profess to be be expert in those areas. I do know if a knife feels good in my hands, if the balance is tiring or comfortable, if I have to sharpen it all the time, how it slices, whittles, pounds stakes, chops branches, guts, skins, quarters, cuts rope, digs dirt, chops roots, slices tomatoes shaves firesticks and carves turkey (from a dutch oven, of course). The hollow handle is the icing on the cake. It's good for fishhooks and line, medicine, matches, small necessities or even a small cigar.
[This message has been edited by Nimrod (edited 05-10-2001).]
I'm no metalurgist or chemist or scientist or engineer, but I've spent a good bit of time outdoors with things that shoot or cut. I know what works, albeit for me, and what doesn't.
If you are looking for a hollow handle field knife for hard use and dependable service, look no further than Chris Reeve. I know that A2 is a carbon steel and take care of it accordingly.
All the techno-babble referenced in my first paragragh is probably important but I don't profess to be be expert in those areas. I do know if a knife feels good in my hands, if the balance is tiring or comfortable, if I have to sharpen it all the time, how it slices, whittles, pounds stakes, chops branches, guts, skins, quarters, cuts rope, digs dirt, chops roots, slices tomatoes shaves firesticks and carves turkey (from a dutch oven, of course). The hollow handle is the icing on the cake. It's good for fishhooks and line, medicine, matches, small necessities or even a small cigar.
[This message has been edited by Nimrod (edited 05-10-2001).]
Bronco
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Nimrod,
I don't think there are too many of us here who would recommend that a person make a knife buying decision based solely on steel composition alone. But it certainly is a legitimate factor to take into consideration (along with, hopefully, many of the other blade characteristics you've already mentioned). And, inasmuch as backpacker specifically asked about blade steels, I felt it was appropriate to offer what little information I had available to me.
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Semper Fi
-Bill
I don't think there are too many of us here who would recommend that a person make a knife buying decision based solely on steel composition alone. But it certainly is a legitimate factor to take into consideration (along with, hopefully, many of the other blade characteristics you've already mentioned). And, inasmuch as backpacker specifically asked about blade steels, I felt it was appropriate to offer what little information I had available to me.
------------------
Semper Fi
-Bill
BackPacker,
You didn't define your criteria. The "better steel" will depend on your requirements. The execution is extremely important.
My take is like comparing a Rolex to an Omega watch, both good. I know which one I have found to be more accurate and dependable, though w/o quite the snob appeal or cachet with John Q Public. Both will work for normal everyday requirements. Do you need (want/?) to have timing accuracy to a few seconds or minutes over a period of a week or more, do you need it to take more abuse than an average hunting situation, etc.
I know what I choose on both acounts.
You didn't define your criteria. The "better steel" will depend on your requirements. The execution is extremely important.
My take is like comparing a Rolex to an Omega watch, both good. I know which one I have found to be more accurate and dependable, though w/o quite the snob appeal or cachet with John Q Public. Both will work for normal everyday requirements. Do you need (want/?) to have timing accuracy to a few seconds or minutes over a period of a week or more, do you need it to take more abuse than an average hunting situation, etc.
I know what I choose on both acounts.