Chrome tanned vs veg tanned

[ron55]

I found some chrome tanned water buffalo that I like at Weaver. Was going to make a couple knife sheaths and some field book binders.

But I've been reading that the chrome tanning process has corrosive tendencies. Seems like something corrosive shouldn't be touching knife blades.

I'd like opinions from the esteemed group of sheath makers here.

Thanks!

 

[Triton]

I found some chrome tanned water buffalo that I like at Weaver. Was going to make a couple knife sheaths and some field book binders.

But I've been reading that the chrome tanning process has corrosive tendencies. Seems like something corrosive shouldn't be touching knife blades.

I'd like opinions from the esteemed group of sheath makers here.

Thanks!

Not all Chrome tanned leather is corrosive, it depends on what chemicals were used. However since its impossible to tell up front which is which. Why take a chance? Just get some nice veg tan and move on with life.

 

[Horsewright]

Or do what we do. Overlay that water buff on regular veg tan. In fact I'll be working on two overlay sheaths today.

We also overlay on Belts:

Sheaths:

Holsters:

Stand alone leather for bags:

Holster linings on my Rangeflap Holsters:

Leggings/Chaps:

Our use of the leather on the smaller projects really arose out of having scrap left over from legging projects.

We also have used it for wallets, notebook covers and we use it on our Buckaroo Pouches. Pics of these guys are eluding me at this moment though. The Buckaroo pouch is a folding knife pouch that goes in a pocket tethered to a belt loop. Before I would sell these I made a prototype and put one of my pocket knives in it. I kept it on the bathroom counter for weeks (warm and humid from showers). There were no adverse affects to etiher the nickel bolsters (which usually corrodes faster than steel), or to the blades.

The chorme tan leather is not firm enough by itself to make sheaths or holsters, it is a soft leather ideal for the applications highlighted above. Weaver is where we get our water buff too btw. They also sell a veg tan water buff and while ideal for belts and straps etc and we use a lot of it, it didn't work for me for sheaths. Just didn't mold well and then didn't hold that mold well once formed.

 

[ron55]

^^^ Thanks - I never thought about overlay. And I've got one of your overlay belts - I can see how it would work on a sheath. I'll try an overlay.

 

[Horsewright]

^^^ Thanks - I never thought about overlay. And I've got one of your overlay belts - I can see how it would work on a sheath. I'll try an overlay.

Good deal! I'll use a lighter weight of veg tan when I do an overlay. For instance the two I'm working on today would normally be made out of 8/10 oz. Since I'm overlaying them I'll use 7/8 oz for the fronts where the overlay goes. I'll still use the 8/10 oz on the backs. How your belt was done too. Although we sometimes even use 6/7 on the belts, depends on the temper.

 

[ron55]

^^ Thanks for the info!

 

[Horsewright]

Ya bet!