Circular saw for wood steel identification

Don Hanson III said:
Thanks man! These big blades are right at 3/16".
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Welcome, lots of nice blades there. I like that big clip pont with the false edge right behind it too... I measured our blades this evening..All but one were right at 3/16" just like yours, the other one was a little closer to 5/32" but it was a somewhat smaller blade..
growing up around here "sawblade steel" was the gold standard by which all knives were tested :D Even the corn knives and tobacco knives were all sought after in sawblade steel..In truth though most of them were probably not even heat treated :p
I still think its very good steel when you heat treat it right. We normally do a short soak at around 1475° and into parks..
 
Kentucky said:
Welcome, lots of nice blades there. I like that big clip pont with the false edge right behind it too... I measured our blades this evening..All but one were right at 3/16" just like yours, the other one was a little closer to 5/32" but it was a somewhat smaller blade..
growing up around here "sawblade steel" was the gold standard by which all knives were tested :D Even the corn knives and tobacco knives were all sought after in sawblade steel..In truth though most of them were probably not even heat treated :p
I still think its very good steel when you heat treat it right. We normally do a short soak at around 1475° and into parks..
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Yep, a lot of saw blade knives made without heat treating. My father & I started with saw steel back in 1981.
Great stuff when heat treated right!
 
This days I make one knife from this circular saw steel , and I like this steel very much .I do some cut and test and I really like what I see . Heated to no magnetic , quench in oil and temper for one hour on 180-190 celsius .It s about 0.3mm behind edge now and 18 degree per side and blade preform excellent . Knife is not yet final finished , but I had to test it . Thanks for help :thumbup:

Now I have one silly question . Suppose I have two same knives from this steel. First one quenched in water 68 Rockwell and second one quenched in oil 65 Hrc . What will happen if both blade I temper say on 200 Celsius ? Hardness will decrease proportionately or both will have the same hardness ? I ask because if it's worth , I would risk to quench in brine :)

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Nice lookin knife.

Temper the same & the water quenched blade should still be harder.

Try the brine quench, it should be fine.
 
Thank you very much , I'll try brine quench :thumbup: These days I'm going on several day fishing and I'll bring this knife with me to use . Carp fishing is boring and I will have plenty time to test on some wood :)
 
Don Hanson III said:
Nice lookin knife.

Temper the same & the water quenched blade should still be harder.

Try the brine quench, it should be fine.
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I did it , quench in little warm brine and they not snapped .......... :thumbup: Both blank are distal taper , long live disk sander :) Top one have a little bend in the middle of blade where will be cutting edge /but little grinding on disk sander and hand sanding and is almost gone / I think that I grind blade too thin on edge / 0.4mm / that s way was bend ... The second one is also a bit bend on one side at the tip , maybe 1 mm , but it is difficult to notice with eye . Only if I put knife on a flat surface I can see that . I tempered both blank on 180-190 Celsius 2 X one hour , but I think that they a still to hard ? Is it a problem if I put them again in oven at 200-220 C degrees for one hour ?

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Kentucky said:
Remember too guys, Mr Natlek up here is from Macedonia..What is normal for our saw blades might not be normal for his.His may well be made of something with much higher carbon than ours.The germans made a lot of steel like that.
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I found which steel it was .Saw is made in Turkey from German steel .It is 1.25 % carbon and 2 % Tungsten .
 
It looks like a very nice steel. Are you able to get also the name of this steel? The carbon family with that 2%W seems to be a very very nice knife steel, geared toward thin edges, with a great edge stability at high hardness.
When heat treating, try not to overheat the steel or you run the risk to increase the dimensions of W carbides, and if it would happen you won't be able to put back them in solution again so easily....That W will do better finely dispersed within the matrix.
I'd try to stay in the ballpark of 800-810 °C for austenitizing, and quench into hot vegetable oil with a good agitation (i am assuming you got a bit of Cr in the steel). Tempering temperature around 180 °C for fine slicers.
 
As we're discussing saw blade knives. I recently tried making a knife out of an old saw blade. I don't know the steel, but it was hard enough that drilling through was a real pain, but it still cannot hold an edge. I don't get what causes this distinction, that it is almost too hard to drill through, yet it doesn't hold an edge.
 
Rain_of_Arrows said:
As we're discussing saw blade knives. I recently tried making a knife out of an old saw blade. I don't know the steel, but it was hard enough that drilling through was a real pain, but it still cannot hold an edge. I don't get what causes this distinction, that it is almost too hard to drill through, yet it doesn't hold an edge.
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Drilling 45 RC steel is incredibly hard on HSS drills, but no one would like how a 45 RC knife performs. The distinction is that drilling is a poorly correlated test to sufficient hardness for a knife because it's a very intensive operation. Unlike a file check which is an attempt to make a simple cut, a drill is extruding metal at the center and cutting only where the flutes start. I'll bet that steel files easily with a good file.
 
kuraki said:
Drilling 45 RC steel is incredibly hard on HSS drills, but no one would like how a 45 RC knife performs. The distinction is that drilling is a poorly correlated test to sufficient hardness for a knife because it's a very intensive operation. Unlike a file check which is an attempt to make a simple cut, a drill is extruding metal at the center and cutting only where the flutes start. I'll bet that steel files easily with a good file.
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You are correct, it does file quite easily. Would a good tempering of the steel fix the issue, or should I just find a different steel?
 
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