Circular VS. Back and Forth?

It would have to be pretty coarse stone for the circular pattern to be causing the chipping out OP is seeing.

Normally I only use a circular motion with a puck when doing convex axe/hatchets, finishing with a more perpendicular movement on a fine stone.
In the past I have experimented with circular and it works fine for bevel setting and Ok for final edge work. I still prefer perpendicular or at a rake angle up to 45° when finishing but I don't see it as a big issue. The biggest reason I don't use it is the confused scratch pattern makes it tough for me to tell when the edge is properly deburred.

I guess what I'm trying to convey is the overlapping circular grind lines create a stess line at the very edge that when going to the crocksticks snaps a microchip out.The only thing I can liken it to is those snap off utility knives.I don't really know just wondering.I haven't noticed this since going to back and forth grinding.I was just revisiting old techniques.
 
Robert Ptacek said:
It would have to be pretty coarse stone for the circular pattern to be causing the chipping out OP is seeing.

Normally I only use a circular motion with a puck when doing convex axe/hatchets, finishing with a more perpendicular movement on a fine stone.
In the past I have experimented with circular and it works fine for bevel setting and Ok for final edge work. I still prefer perpendicular or at a rake angle up to 45° when finishing but I don't see it as a big issue. The biggest reason I don't use it is the confused scratch pattern makes it tough for me to tell when the edge is properly deburred.

I guess what I'm trying to convey is the overlapping circular grind lines create a stess line at the very edge that when going to the crocksticks snaps a microchip out.The only thing I can liken it to is those snap off utility knives.I don't really know just wondering.I haven't noticed this since going to back and forth grinding.I was just revisiting old techniques.
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I guess its possible. My experience w/ circular grinding is such that there just isn't enough of the grind lines running parallel to the edge to create those kinds of stress points.
But...if that's what you're seeing and have controlled for other variables then it certainly is a strong contender when combined with a crock stick.
 
A last thought on this I've noticed over the years. It makes for a much better convex off of a flat stone if the rough lay-in is done with a circular pattern. Having gone from belt ground and fore and aft on flat stone, a circular pattern seems to do a better job of eliminating inconsistencies prior to the finishing touches.
 
A last thought on this I've noticed over the years. It makes for a much better convex off of a flat stone if the rough lay-in is done with a circular pattern. Having gone from belt ground and fore and aft on flat stone, a circular pattern seems to do a better job of eliminating inconsistencies prior to the finishing touches.

Could you elaborate on what you mean by inconsistencies please.
 
Robert Ptacek said:
A last thought on this I've noticed over the years. It makes for a much better convex off of a flat stone if the rough lay-in is done with a circular pattern. Having gone from belt ground and fore and aft on flat stone, a circular pattern seems to do a better job of eliminating inconsistencies prior to the finishing touches.

Could you elaborate on what you mean by inconsistencies please.
Click to expand...

There seems to be flat spots or areas where the curvature is not uniform. Moving to a finer stone you can see them appear and it takes a bit of added time with each step - this likely from human error trying to replicate a convex using a wrist roll. Most noticeable on axe/hatchet - tools with a very broad convex.

If I lay in the initial regrind with a circular pattern, it is a lot easier to get a cosmetically smooth finish when switching to a finer stone using a fore and aft pattern.
 
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