clay coating.

Joined
Jan 17, 2008
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I am wondering how you guys apply clay for quenching?

Generally when i do it, i just roll it in little balls and stick it to the blade along the knife from the spine down, then put a long layer over the whole spine , except the last 1'' or so of the tip. I usually put it on, then warm it over the stove for a minute, but for the most part only the out side is dry, and inside it's still kind of wet, and usually this works fine, and holds on pretty good.

Last eve, I coated one, and with a tooth pick, removed everything I didn't want, and let it dry over night, when I heated it to quench, it started to peel off , and the hammon came out kind of plain, not bad, just not as complex as what I layed it out as.

Is it better to heat the blade for quenching with the cley still wet, so it bonds better, or was it just a fluke thing.

Im using furnace cement, and the blades ive been quenching have been forged 1090.

One other question, how can I get a wilder looking hamon? even when the clay dosent fall off, it's never as complex as the way it is put on?

I hope I didnt jump arround with the questions to much.

thanks andrew
 
Last edited:
Yo, Danbo. Grab yourself some Satanite. I take the blades to 220. Apply the Satanite, and go to the forge immediately.
Thermal cycle three times and back in to bring the blade up for quench.
Satanite does NOT come off.
It'll surely eliminate those issues you are experiencing.
Good lookin' blades.
Glad to see you gettin' dirty!

Just saw this on another thread.
 
I personally have in the past mixed up the satanite so it's nice and thick and globbed it on and put it in the forge WET. It works great !
 
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