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Clay, Etching + obsevations..12/28 NEW PIC's
- Thread starter David Loukides
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2008
- Messages
- 7,187
I hope this doesn't make me look much more ignorant than I am,
But....... I really like the look that you guys are calling "Alloy Banding".
To me it looks like really subtle damascus. I think it gives the blade a little more character. Just my opinion for what it's worth.
But....... I really like the look that you guys are calling "Alloy Banding".
To me it looks like really subtle damascus. I think it gives the blade a little more character. Just my opinion for what it's worth.
Here is a pic of the Alloy Banding.
Also I have some 1042 with .789MN is this considered low MN?
Dave,
I wish I could make a "mistake" like that. Darn it that's nice looking!
Dean
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2006
- Messages
- 1,363
It is not what I expected, but "mistake" would be not quite accurate either
I see it as a learning experience or part of the learning curve.
It is interesting to try to figure out ways of improving ones work and info and feed back is a great tool.
I see it as a learning experience or part of the learning curve.
It is interesting to try to figure out ways of improving ones work and info and feed back is a great tool.
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2006
- Messages
- 1,363
This is my second attempt With some of your suggestions.
Steel was 1084 with Clay
1K Grit Post heat treat.
15% ferric chloride to water.
2min in the solution then rub out with 1K grit 4x
The 5th time I used steel wool.
As was suggested I fooled around with it.
I have 6 more blades to go before I run out.
Then I will try some W-2
The Guard has a long way to go before it is done.
Steel was 1084 with Clay
1K Grit Post heat treat.
15% ferric chloride to water.
2min in the solution then rub out with 1K grit 4x
The 5th time I used steel wool.
As was suggested I fooled around with it.
I have 6 more blades to go before I run out.
Then I will try some W-2
The Guard has a long way to go before it is done.
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2008
- Messages
- 760
Dave - I am back from my trip and home working on my own blades every day.
call me, I will give you some w2.
Also, once you have rubbed the etch out once or twice, you should switch to a very fine powdered abrasive (pummice or rotten stone - I have both and will give you some of each). You should use the powdered abrasive with a cotton gauze or cotton ball, or just what I use - a soft toothbrush.
Focus on using this around the line of transition and in the hardened area. This will give a more frosty look to things because the powder, in combination with a soft back, will selectively cut the soft steel and not the hard steel and it will leave what is a roughened surface at the microscopic level. There will be "proud" bits of hardened steel and "valleys" where the soft steel was eroded. Do all of the scrubbing down the whole length of the blade, of course.
the end result is that the area around the line of transition will reflect light differently than the soft portion of the blade because of the rougher surface contours.
You will be surprised how much difference 3 or 4 runs with pummice or rotten stone will make, or at least I was the first time I saw it.
hope you had a good Christmas.
kc
call me, I will give you some w2.
Also, once you have rubbed the etch out once or twice, you should switch to a very fine powdered abrasive (pummice or rotten stone - I have both and will give you some of each). You should use the powdered abrasive with a cotton gauze or cotton ball, or just what I use - a soft toothbrush.
Focus on using this around the line of transition and in the hardened area. This will give a more frosty look to things because the powder, in combination with a soft back, will selectively cut the soft steel and not the hard steel and it will leave what is a roughened surface at the microscopic level. There will be "proud" bits of hardened steel and "valleys" where the soft steel was eroded. Do all of the scrubbing down the whole length of the blade, of course.
the end result is that the area around the line of transition will reflect light differently than the soft portion of the blade because of the rougher surface contours.
You will be surprised how much difference 3 or 4 runs with pummice or rotten stone will make, or at least I was the first time I saw it.
hope you had a good Christmas.
kc
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2008
- Messages
- 5,547
Nice looking blade. Hamons are fun, huh? I'm using a fair bit of W1 right now, it's great for hamons.
The first was taken to 1500 grit, etched about 1 min. in 1/4 ferric chloride/water, sanded again with 1500, etched again, sanded, etched, lightly sanded, and gone over with white rubbing compound.
The second got a similar treatment, but was only taken to 600 before etch, then 1500 lightly between etches and no rubbing compound.
The first was taken to 1500 grit, etched about 1 min. in 1/4 ferric chloride/water, sanded again with 1500, etched again, sanded, etched, lightly sanded, and gone over with white rubbing compound.
The second got a similar treatment, but was only taken to 600 before etch, then 1500 lightly between etches and no rubbing compound.
