Clay Falling Off in Forge

okzj

okzj

Joined
Aug 16, 2008
Messages
222
Guys,

I'm at my wit's end over this one...

I forged out a bowie this weekend, and I tried to HT it yesterday, but about half of my clay fell off in the forge (propane). So, my question is this; how do you guys get your clay to stick? I'm using potter's clay. I know satanite would be better, but I have 25lb of potter's clay and I'm damn determined to make it work since I spent money on it. I'm trying for a 1/8" thick coat. Finish before HT is 60 grit.

You can't just throw it in the forge. The clay literally explodes. Air drying takes days, and I just refuse to wait that long. I can put many, many thin coats and cook them between applications and it seems to stick ,but it's a 2 or 3 hour process for ONE BLADE and half the clay flakes off anyway. Now, I could apply the clay unthinned, but it cracks like the dickens and just falls right off. I know this is all pointing to me drying too fast. What I'm looking for is a way around it. Do any of you wire the clay on? I think I could do that and just bake it in the oven for an hour at 225 or so. Cracks be damned, the wire should hold it on. Right? Or am I crazy?
 
From what I remember... take that however you want, you can use iron wire like "tie wire" to help hold the clay on by using a wide wrap. I flash dry my clay using a heat gun. A warm blade helps.
 
I've tried potters clay and it doesn't work. I have a friend that makes bowls and that sort of thing and it was something I wanted to try. She had 3 different types clay and I had no luck with any of it. I even tried mixing it with satanite and it still didn't work. Best to bite the bullet and get the right thing. I even tried it with wire wrapped on the blade and still had the same results.

Drywall mud doesn't work either.
 
All i use is Harvey's furnace cement with the blade at 180 grit and have never had it fall off. Apply it and let it sit in the toaster oven on warm for a few hours then go ahead and heat treat.
Bob
 
first thing i would do would be spray it down with a mist of water , then paint it on.
then i would take a hair dryer let it run till it gets dry.
put it out side the forge and let it dry overnight. then see what you need to do for the wife for taking her dryer
vern
 
I guess I'll just have to let my wife make pottery from the clay. :( But I think it would be easier to sell her on a small kiln. ;)

The wire worked, but the blade cracked. :mad: On the bright side, the hamon was WICKED. I think it was my own stupid fault.

I am going to pick up some refractory cement next week, though. I'll give it a try before I give up on the 1095 and go back to O-1 or L-6.

Thanks guys.
Taylor
 
Well I use satanite and I usually have to wait a day. The last blade I made, I waited about 20 hours and it was still moist, but it didn't have any popping. Once I tried rushing the cycle so I clayed it using the satanite and tried warming it up but once I put it in the forge, it popped (or exploded) and I stopped.

So I have found that the more moist the clay, the more pop I get... so you can try thickining your clay (let it dry out alittle or use less water if your thinning it out) or use a blow dryer to dry it out after application, but I think your going to have to give it one night to dry either way. In fact, I normally apply, wait a day, apply alittle more to fill some cracks, and then HT.

Oh and I first started with a refactory cement and I wrapped wire to hold it in place. That also worked well.
 
Use Satanite.........

After normalizing....... you are normalizing aren't you?..... Anyway after normalizing, let the blade cool a bit, THEN sand off the carbon residue. Satanite doesn't stick well to carbon when you put it back into the forge. Get your blade all shined up, then paint your satanite on. I usually mix mine to the consistency of melted ice-cream. DON'T put it on too thick..... usually 1/8" to 3/16" is thick enough.

Once you have the pattern you want (as even from side to side as possible), you can go directly into the forge for heat-treat. After you quench, take a piece of wood and "tap" the blade. About 90% of the satanite will pop off. Use a red scotchbrite to remove the rest......... Then its off to temper.

Satanite is like Brylcream.... "A little dab will do ya". Sounds goods doesn't it? Try it, you will like it.

Robert
 
Slowing the clay drying process will give the best results.
Try an experiment;
Try putting some clay on a blade and heating it with a propane torch. You can watch the clay curl as it dries. Its the loss of water that does it.

Hardening is the most critical procedure that goes into making a good blade. If you don't get it rite, the blade is worthless.
Take your time; don't get in a hurry. A better blade will be the result.
Applying clay is best done in steps.
Put a wash coat on the blade first. Use a slurry mix.
Let that dry[ inside a small plastic tent] then apply the thicker coat on top of the slurry coat. Put that in the tent and let it dry.
It will stay in place when you quench.

And purchase the proper clay for the job.:thumbup:



Good luck, Fred
 
Finish your blade by draw-filing before you apply the clay. The rough surface gives the clay something to grab onto... I use natural clay from our land and it works just fine as long as I draw-file the blade before applying the clay. It sticks on well enough that it requires ~15 minutes to remove most of the clay after heat treatment. Also like others said take your time and let the clay dry slowly.

Good luck and have fun :thumbup:
 
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