Clay Quench and Curvature

Joined
Dec 23, 2006
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The tanto knife (as well as the katana, etc.) achieves it's curvature due to the fact that the edge matensite is slightly larger in volume than the pearlite/cementite/ferrite in the spine. Right?

I'd like to jump into the clay quech thing ASAP, 'cause I want to see cool hamons on my knives ASAP. But I'm wondering: How do you prevent serious curvature on a straight knife when using a clay quench? Is it mostly a matter of grinding it out later if it happens?

I'd like to build a fairbairn-sykes knife someday (my favorite childhood knife), with a hamon right up the middle...
 
Long clay coated baldes curve up quenched in water and down in oil. You will get little curve in short blades and no curve on a dager with clay down the middle. Now get to work ASAP :D
 
Sori on a long blade (katana, wakazashi) is formed by the interrupted quench making a martensitic edge and a fine pearlite spine.One expands and the other shrinks (very basic explanation) and this causes the blade to curve (or break, PING_PING_PING). In shorter blades there is little or no sori formed. It is usually forged or ground in if a curve is desired. The hamon is not actually a function of the sori. It is the border where the martensite meets the pearlite.

All that said, you first have to master a regular quench before yo move to advanced quenches. Would you want a surgeon who never bothered to learn how to suture?
Stacy
 
True enough, but I've always been a "learn the hard way" kind of guy. Some times I like to see just how hard an advanced teqnique will be through expirience (read: failure). It seems to have a humbling effect that allows me to clear my head and concentrate on the basics. Hindsight is 20/20 sort of thing... And once in awhile, it'll actually work out, which is always cool.
 
I refer to my standard example....Would you want a surgeon who learns the hard way???
There is a reason to learn things in a certain order.
At least you are not apprenticing for a smith who has you only sweep out the ashes for a year before starting on a first project.The old school masters would have a novice learn only one basic skill at a time, gradually building up to complex skills (Wax on...Wax off).
 
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