cleaning G10,what is the best way!

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Feb 11, 2015
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i have some folders that are in need of cleaning on there G10 scales,i have tried using eraser and alcohol 91% and these things did not work for me,the scales are a light grey color,what else should i be trying,thanks guys.
 
I have used scouring powder and a scrubby but I don't baby my g10 scales. Just make sure you rinse it off the blade.

Russ
 
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I take the scales off usually to clean them, I use dish soap and and nylon scrub brush.
 
G10 is tough stuff and very resistive to chemicals.

Start with Magic Eraser and work you way up thru soap and nylon brushes to blue scotchbrite pads.
 
A few years back I had a couple of used Spyderco folders that I was attempting to rejuvenate. And truly just by a stroke of divine intervention or mere lady luck I was using some BALLISTOL that I've used on firearms for years and I discovered that it truly makes G-10 look practically brand new. I still use it to this day and I've never yet found anything that beats it IMO.

It really seems to bring back the original color, because sometimes G-10 will tend to fade on you over time. It also seems like it literally repairs any cracking, weathering or abrasions. I now routinely use BALLISTOL on all my G-10 Spyders and other G-10 handled knives.

I've also found that BALLISTOL has some really nice effects on Micarta and other synthetic surfaces. It's truly a great combination cleaner, lubricant and preservative. I buy it by the big refill type cans ( 16 oz and quart size) because it's much cheaper to get it that way rather than to use their aerosol cans. Now I'm open minded and if I ever find anything that is better I will start using it instead but so far I haven't found anything that works better on G-10 handles than BALLISTOL.
 
Ballistol doesn't repair anything. It (and any other light oil) simply darkens the surface, camouflaging any imperfections.
 
Check out this YouTube video by jdavis882.

[video=youtube;u68LPvS2OmQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u68LPvS2OmQ[/video].
 
I combine most of the answers already posted, depending on level of dirt.

Dawn and toothbrush (barkeepers friend works too), then magic eraser any remaining visible smudges/scuffs.

G10 tends to look dried out after a good cleaning. Ballistol rejuvinates G10 and peel ply CF very well. Looks better than new and it isnt too greasy after a good wipe. I use it to clean my guns, use it to oil and get residue off my blades also. Mineral oil also works in a pinch but I like the all purpose solution.
 
I use Magic Eraser after cleaning it with a mix of warm water & a drop or two of Dawn dish soap...usually does the trick for me. Cleans it without ruining any of the color/finish. Mineral oil is good too, as mentioned by post above me, to preserve the look if it gets dull at all after repeated cleansing.
 
I combine most of the answers already posted, depending on level of dirt.

Dawn and toothbrush (barkeepers friend works too), then magic eraser any remaining visible smudges/scuffs.

G10 tends to look dried out after a good cleaning. Ballistol rejuvinates G10 and peel ply CF very well. Looks better than new and it isnt too greasy after a good wipe. I use it to clean my guns, use it to oil and get residue off my blades also. Mineral oil also works in a pinch but I like the all purpose solution.

What is Ballistol? I have never seen/used that before. I've been looking for a multipurpose cleaner like that so I can do my blades and guns with one or two consolidated products.
 
I just used a magic eraser on my
Manix Cruwear Grey g10 and they came out
better than Ajax and a brush.


As for Balistol.

It is primarily used for cleaning black powder. and corrosive ammunition residues.
 
Well all I can say is that I've had excellent results using "Ballistol" for cleaning and rejuvenating G-10 folder handles in particular. I have found that it cleans G-10 very safely and seems to give it a protective coating which I've found to be very advantageous in many respects. I've also found Ballistol to be a good parts cleaner when working on some of my older fishing reels as well.

Now I do have a second recommendation for hard to clean knife handle jobs>> I'm speaking of "Bar Keeper's Friend" cleanser/polish. Now I do recommend using a chemical resistant or rubber glove when using BKF. I've also found Bar Keeper's Friend to be great on eliminating surface rust and other corrosion problems.

The only negative aspect of Ballistol that I don't like is it's chemical-like odor that tends to linger for a day or so. But overall I've found Ballistol to be great on G-10 and other handle/scales made of polymers and synthetic materials. It also has lubrication properties and using it with a soft bristle toothbrush I've been able to safely clean many different synthetic materials without any problems. Hey if any of you all have anything better to suggest than those two great products I'm all ears :) I'm always wanting to find better stuff to use.
 
For a change I searched the forum for an answer rather than start another thread.
I have some questions though :

How does BALLISTOL compare to WD-40 ? They sound kind of similar.

Second question requires some back ground and why I am pestering you this way in the first place . . .
I have found myself EDCing my Spyderco Blurple Para2 . . . and have for about a month now . . . geeeee with out trying I finally completed a one month challenge with a single knife . . . simply unheard of for me.
anyway
due to this thing getting most of it's use at work the G10 is getting unsanitary and I keep pulling it out to use in the kitchen and then wishing it was cleaner to handle. Of course I wash the blade very thoroughly with solvent and or dish soap but have hesitated to start in on the handle.
I know : oooooooh yuuuuuuuuuuck . . . etc.

It's not so bad to look at; only slightly dingy.
What I am attempting to eliminate from the handle is your normal dirt and grime = dust and dirt from the mountains, some light residue from working on machinery and unfortunately micro-biological contaminants from cutting up a little trash at the dumpster.

Mr. DeShivs,
I would be particularly interested in your take since you commented but did not make a recommendation.

I'm thinking some kind of solvent like denatured alc to get the light but dirty machine oil smudges off, followed by dish soap and a surgical scrub brush and then maybe some rubbing alc to dry out the handle between the liners and the scales.

And for that final show room sparkle (translation to get the G10 to look less dry and more factory fresh) just the lightest mist of ___________ (I haven't a clue though I'm not drawn to anything for the final G10 coating like the gun cleaner with solvent and oil in my pocket; maybe it is just fine but for instance I wouldn't use WD-40 and put it in my pocket).

Maybe if I actually used Ballistol I would change my mind.

And finally whaaaasup with getting the dish soap off ? ? ??
Since the stainless steel liners on the Para are . . . well . . . stainless, I'm thinking just rinse the knife handle under luke running water and whomp it on a towel to get the water out.
buuuuuuuut
then we have Nick Shabazz carefully coating the liners before reassembling with some lube or other.

This is a work knife and it tends to be dry here in Colorado so I think I will be fine washing under the tap, avoiding getting the pivot wet and then . . . I guess we are back to the final magic elixir for that show room ambiance.
 
As previously mentioned, a melamine foam pad will get the job done. A silica sand eraser also works well on the scales of my CRU-WEAR PM2.
 
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