Recommendation? Cleaning up a blade after glue up

S

SLC_Blades

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Aug 20, 2018
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Hey everyone! I’m wondering if anyone has any tips for doing touch-up hand sanding on a blade after handles have already been glued up. I’m always very meticulous with protecting the blade prior to any handle work, but I always end up with a couple extremely aggravating micro scratches.

My only concern with doing touch-up handsanding (600 grit, draw-strokes only) is that I could possibly create j-hooks at the bottom of the ricasso where the handle starts. Additionally, many of these micro scratches are directly adjacent to the beginning of the handle, meaning I need to somehow get my sanding block against the top of the handle (which is rounded). I’m sure I’m not the only one that gets these obnoxious scratches so any tips/tricks that have worked for other people would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
 
So where exactly are you trying to remove the glue?
When I have little spots of epoxy from not quite being meticulous enough wiping off after fit up is to use a brand new exacto blade and cut the glue off, usually in the corner where the ricasso meets the handle.
 
weo said:
So where exactly are you trying to remove the glue?
When I have little spots of epoxy from not quite being meticulous enough wiping off after fit up is to use a brand new exacto blade and cut the glue off, usually in the corner where the ricasso meets the handle.
Click to expand...
I’m not removing glue, I’m trying to sand out small scratches
 
Use very light pressure and go slow on the draw and do not draw to the end of the paper just slow draw and stop.
 
I'm really careful to protect the blade during glue-up, and cleanup after gluing. My goal is to not have to touch the bevels once the handle/scales are in place. There tends to be lots of painters tape involved.

If I do have to sand the bevels post-handle I find that putting the sanding block up on edge for the beginning or end of the stroke (depending on which way you're sanding) will help prevent J-hooks.
 
I use the 3M polishing papers. They are color coded and go from 400 to 8000 grit.

Pick the grit that matches the last grit in sanding, and use it in straight pulls that go from the ricasso completely off the blade.
DON'T sand back and forth.
DON'T sand only one area.
 
I cut a piece of firm leather the shape of the end of the scale and apply psa sandpaper to the leather also cut to shape. Go back forth with a higher grit than you finished with to remove deep scratches then finish with straight pulls of your final grit.
 
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