Cleaning up a rusty old slipjoint

Did a bit of work last night for the first time in a while. Cut some nickel silver pieces for bolsters and soldered them to the outer liners. I also left some epoxy curing the stabilized buckeye burl slabs I happened to have to the liners as well. Later on this week it will be belt sander time to begin to shape all of that.
 
Did a bit of work today - but nowhere near done with the scales.

Here they are after solder and epoxy


Here they are after some time on the belt sander. I am pleased so far but more to do later!
 
I don't see any flow in the pin or pivot hole, as long as you're sure though.
 
I don't see any flow in the pin or pivot hole, as long as you're sure though.

Its entirely possible that I dont have full coverage of solder. I actually redid one side and saw I had 60-70% coverage. Its sturdy enough that it did not loosen through heating and cooling during all that belt sanding. This is totally going to be an amateur job guys, avert your eyes if necessary - lol.
 
OK. Are you going to pin the handles?

Yes I plan to get them near finished, drill the holes, pin the scales, and assemble the knife. Then I was going to do any final finishing and polishing. I got the wrong size pin stock the first time, so I ordered some more. I needed 2mm stock for the springs and blades.
 
The outside looks good, but those guys are right concerning the solder.
Solder should look like it's flowed and melted into/on, not standing up and beaded. The latter is a definite cold joint.
Otherwise, good job so far.
 
Well today I had a good block of time to do a lot more work. I got my 2mm nickel silver pin stock in - so I set to it!

Here is a photo with all of the holes drilled, and a few of the liner only pins already in place.


Admittedly, after that I was more or less heads down until it was done! It has its flaws - most notable of which is that I swapped blade positions, putting the pen blade behind the main blade. I did not notice this until I was practically ready to take photos. I did not have the heart to undo all I had done, so I ground a nail nick on the other side of the pen blade. The other most obvious flaw is one side of one of my bolsters didnt get great flow of solder, so there is a visible gap. Other than that my complaints are mostly around nit picking the finish or a very small gap here or there.

On the good side though, I have a sturdy and smooth working knife with some family history behind it back in good working order. Another big thing - I can appreciate all that much more the craftsmanship that goes into any hand made knife. Hats off to the guys who put up some of the stuff in the knifemakers area!

I left the finish of the knife looking more worn than glossy. Part of that was me working with the skill I had though. I buffed the stablized buckeye as much as I could with the tools that I have, but I do wish it was a shinier finish. I had trouble getting a smooth polish on the metal with the tools available to me, so I opted for more of brushed metal satin. I gave the blades a light sanding on the belt sander too to give the same satin look there. However, I intentionally did not remove all of the aging and character from the original steel. The blades open smoothly and easily, and they sharpened up extremely well with that old carbon steel.

Some pics









 
As I mentioned in traditionals, great job for your first one, not an easy first one to choose to work on.

A quick tip, if you plan to do any more of these. Preshape you bolster after it is on the liner. You can also rough finish the bolster where it will meet your cover material. That way you don't need to work it over that hard where the two meet. Chances are your bolster is going to be tougher to finish than say, wood or bone, and you risk working away too much of that material when trying to get a good finish on your bolster.

Can't wait to see the next one!
 
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