Cleaning

[moosey]

Hi there, I’ve inherited a 1973-1976 victorinox Swiss Army knife in great overall condition with original leather case. I’d like to clean the interior and lightly oil. What should I use in the way of cleaning products? Which is the best way to go about this. There is no wear or corrosion.

 

[Mk-211]

To get pocket lint out, try a can of compressed air. You can also use Q-tips, you might have to pull a little bit of the cotton off, for it to fit inside. A drop of oil, will help it move around easier, pick up dirt/lint...

Any oil will work to clean/lube the pivot, clean and protect the blade(s). What you need to decide on, is how the blade will be used.

If you're just using it for EDC type of stuff, any oil will do. If you plan on using it on food also, look for an oil that's non hazardous.

 

[brownshoe]

Hi there, I’ve inherited a 1973-1976 victorinox Swiss Army knife in great overall condition with original leather case. I’d like to clean the interior and lightly oil. What should I use in the way of cleaning products? Which is the best way to go about this. There is no wear or corrosion.

I scrub an old blade using a tooth brush with hot soapy water, rinse with hot water, dry with a piece of paper towel, put a small drop of oil on the pivot of each blade/tool, open/close the blade several times, wipe off excess oil with a piece of paper towel.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Very simple and straightforward. Knives like this can easily be cleaned in water with liquid dish soap, just like you'd clean your kitchen knives. Exercise the pivots while immersing the knife in the soapy water - be careful, as the knife and blades will be slippery in doing this. Then rinse the knife under relatively hot water (tolerable to your hands). The hot water will warm the internals of the knife, which helps evaporate off residual moisture while drying.

Whatever you do, DON'T use isopropyl alcohol, acetone or other similar solvents to clean Victorinox's 'cellidor' handled knives. That's the standard plastic they've used for a long time, and it will be softened and warped with exposure to the alcohol or acetone. I learned that the hard way, in wiping down one of mine with isopropyl alcohol.

And lubricating can also be very simple. I've just used a light, thin mineral oil to lube mine.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

I suggest washing with detergent/toothbrush/hot water as above.
However, after drying I flush the entire knife with WD 40. It displaces any water left (there will be some) and leaves a light lubricant film in places that a drop of oil won't get to.
Dry the WD 40 off with paper towels, or blow out with compressed air. Then, apply those drops of oil if necessary.

 

[moosey]

Thank you all I’ll give it a go.

 

[Wowbagger]

Gee I thought M moosey was talking about cleaning the sheath . Seemed blisteringly obvious that a survival knife made of all stainless and plastic could be washed out in the sink . Designed for eight day treks above tree line in the spring snow . . . I'm just saying. My friend's Samoyed kept freezing to the vestibule of the tent every night she as so wet . She loved it though . Gave us the "Dog Look" when ever we would put on and take off the snow shoes . She couldn't figure out why we didn't just WALK on the snow like she did .

PS : good one Obsessed with Edges about the alcohol ! ((((the halfast scientist in me makes me want to try it just to be sure))) Acetone no question there .
I will tell you (all) that it is a huge mistake to use alcohol on Dyed Bone handles , at least on Case's , I tried that during Covid, I've got an American Flag Etched and Dyed Trapper that can attest to that . Good thing I was paying attention .

Probably makes it more valuable being is was carried during the Great Plague . I should put that in the provenance : Note the smudging of the dye due to being wiped "incessantly" with disinfectant !