Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
The F1 is a very nice medium use utility knife, it is promoted as a military survival knife which often means something you want to avoid, but this is a pretty solid cutting tool all around with no real weak points. It is a clean design with features like the extended tang which add to its performance unless the various "speed hole" additions often found on such blades. Peter is a solid guy who doesn't over hype his blades and is straightforward to talk to, it is worthwhile to spend some time on their forum on Knifeforums.com.
The only concern I would have with the F1 is regarding raw strength, they are not very difficult to break, I snapped both a VG-10 and an ATS-34 model with just wrist flexing in woods. This isn't a sign of poor quality, it just reflects the limitations of the thickness and the fairly tapered point. Is this important to you, if so then you may want to consider one of the heavier designs such as the S1 or A1, or even H1.
However if that tends to be along your viewpoint I would suggest moving away from stainless steels in general, in fact unless you are really fixed on having a stainless blade I would recommend looking at tool steel blades first. The only real reason to go with stainless is if you live in a really humid enviroment and you simply can't keep the tool steel blades sharp. You can try this out with a fairly cheap one like a puukko and judge from there.
Keeping the blade small and relatively inexpensive, the Howling Rat is one of the most versatile cutting blades I have seen which is also very strong and extremely durable in regards to taking shocks both on the edge and on the spine. The only real weak point for use in general is that it is fairly small and thus has little to no chopping ability and batoning in general is difficult due to lack of length. It also doesn't have a real prominent guard.
Unless you are packing a machete, saw or axe, or expect no significant wood work, then I would look into a slighly larger blade. The RD6 from Ranger Knives would give enough blade length to easily cut down saplings and as well be able to baton through thicker wood, if you do order one, specify the flat ground one with a profile for general wood craft not tactical because tactical to Justin means use like this :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/RangerJD/77rk.jpg
and :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/RangerJD/concrete.jpg
-Cliff
The only concern I would have with the F1 is regarding raw strength, they are not very difficult to break, I snapped both a VG-10 and an ATS-34 model with just wrist flexing in woods. This isn't a sign of poor quality, it just reflects the limitations of the thickness and the fairly tapered point. Is this important to you, if so then you may want to consider one of the heavier designs such as the S1 or A1, or even H1.
However if that tends to be along your viewpoint I would suggest moving away from stainless steels in general, in fact unless you are really fixed on having a stainless blade I would recommend looking at tool steel blades first. The only real reason to go with stainless is if you live in a really humid enviroment and you simply can't keep the tool steel blades sharp. You can try this out with a fairly cheap one like a puukko and judge from there.
Keeping the blade small and relatively inexpensive, the Howling Rat is one of the most versatile cutting blades I have seen which is also very strong and extremely durable in regards to taking shocks both on the edge and on the spine. The only real weak point for use in general is that it is fairly small and thus has little to no chopping ability and batoning in general is difficult due to lack of length. It also doesn't have a real prominent guard.
Unless you are packing a machete, saw or axe, or expect no significant wood work, then I would look into a slighly larger blade. The RD6 from Ranger Knives would give enough blade length to easily cut down saplings and as well be able to baton through thicker wood, if you do order one, specify the flat ground one with a profile for general wood craft not tactical because tactical to Justin means use like this :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/RangerJD/77rk.jpg
and :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/RangerJD/concrete.jpg
-Cliff