clipper or 2000

Oh, I do agree that the Mora Clipper is a good cutting implement (sharp, ergonomic handle) - and cheap.

My point about it, which I didn't elaborate enough on in this thread, has generally been that it's design doesn't really offer the strength advantages normally associated with a fixed bladed knife and has none of the advantages of a lockblade folder.

A good folder, like a Buck 110 or a Kabar Mule is just as strong, if not stronger, can take an edge just as sharp, and offers several advantages, such as compact stowage, you don't need a sheath (can store it in a shirt, pants, or jacket pocket if need be) and it attracts a lot less attention for every day carry.

The only advantage that the Clipper has is that it's cheap (but you always have to also pay shipping) and light. However, the Clipper is seldom very easy to find over the counter, and I can buy a Buck 110 anywhere, such as in any Walmart.

All in all, a Buck 110 is actually a better overall knife, and IMHO it's also a better entry level knife for those starting out. Getting a Buck 110 (3.75" blade) or the slightly smaller Buck 112 (3" blade) was practically a right of passage for young boys in rural America when I was a kid. They've made over 16 million Buck 110's and it has probably gutted and skinned more deer in N. America and any other single model and style of knife.
 
The clipper is great :thumbup: just got mine yesterday :D

I took it on a dogwalk in the park today. I cut up a bunch of green branches from a scrap pile, and did some tactical weed deanimation. Then when I got home I deanimated a stick of celery to eat :) . It seems sturdy enough to me, but it deserves a full tang since its such a great design.

and my answer to the original question: they're cheap. Buy em all.
 
your point is well taken (the buck 110 is a great knife) I think a body'd have to work to break a clipper...maybe it wouldn't be hard but within it's scope of practice its relatively tough...one of the major advantages of a fixed blade is low maintenance... I gut a fish or cut up some sausage AI rinse it off wipe it on my pants and I'm done with a folder (at least with me gunk always gets caught up int the mechanism) as a side not I just saw a great full tang blank at ragweed for 32 bucks sandvik 12c27 2&3/4 blade and the tang is wide enough that you could add some micarta or even just wrap some paracord around it and your good to go. Think I might get one to monkey around with.
 
All in all, a Buck 110 is actually a better overall knife, and IMHO it's also a better entry level knife for those starting out. Getting a Buck...was practically a right of passage for young boys in rural America when I was a kid. They've made over 16 million Buck 110's and it has probably gutted and skinned more deer in N. America and any other single model and style of knife.

You're comparing folders to fixed blades... so... *shrug* You have a very strong point about entry-level/EDC. It's worth noting that the 110 is a brick in-pocket. It will wear out your jeans faster than a pickpocket on meth. Due mainly to its heavy construction, which makes it as reliable as... well... a brick.

Having said that, let me say I was one of those small town boys you mentioned; I still have that same 110 and still love it. In fact, I consider it high praise to say I love my Clipper just as much. They're both icons of efficiency, quality, and durability.

I can't say which is stronger, because I don't hammer on either of them. They both cut like the dickens, are low-maintenance, and have never let me down.

RescueRiley... if we're not careful, us W&SS guys are going to put Ragnar's kids through college :D
 
I have several frosts and erikkson knives and love them all! teamed with a bowie for chopping and hammering, any of them will do everything else! The best wooden handled knives are the laminated frosts while i lean a little toward the thicker spined kj erikssons in the plastic handles. The clipper is one of my favorites though. and one point worth mentioning is all my outdoor knives are carbon or laminated steel... including my collection of bowies... Stainless steel is not a good choice in a knife that will see hard use as it is just too brittle especially in cold weather! choose a tough carbon or carbon alloy in a blade that will see hard use and never attempt to chop frozen limbs with large stainless blades.
 
I am looking at these blades because most blades in this size range seem to be way thicker than I think they need to be for efficient cutting and slicing. I was just curious if some were better made than others. It seem the more expensive Eriksson ones might be thicker? I am basicly looking for an easily field sharpened, thin, carbon fixed blade. I don't know if there are any lockblades that fit that description anymore. It seems this might and at a fair price.
 
I am looking at these blades because most blades in this size range seem to be way thicker than I think they need to be for efficient cutting and slicing. I was just curious if some were better made than others. It seem the more expensive Eriksson ones might be thicker? I am basicly looking for an easily field sharpened, thin, carbon fixed blade. I don't know if there are any lockblades that fit that description anymore. It seems this might and at a fair price.

Then you cant go wrong with the frosts clipper.
 
Then you cant go wrong with the frosts clipper.

Agreed. Worst-case scenario, you spend $15 and don't like it; toss it in your tackle or tool box. I bet you'll find it one of your favorites if you want cutting ability above everything else.
 
the mora ss is tough enough imo, ive used several of them in knifethrowing competitions at work (and we are not very good at this..), and none of them ever broke, however a few carbon steel moras have. yeah btw the hard plastic parts in the clipper handle is prone to cracking when missing targets.. just so you guys know. however this is abuse.
 
Stainless steel is not tough enough to be used as throwing knives and this is why knives designed for throwing are made of soft tough carbon steel which is generally 1050 or 1055 with a rc of 45 up to 52 or 54 (yeah i know everthing from china is stainless steel...even the so called throwers, but these are not meant to be taken seriously) and i am sure that if throw a carbon blade with an edge holding rc rating that it too will break as you say some did ,but look again at the rc which is about 57-59. Ever see a dependable axe made of stainless steel? absolutely not! it would break on the first swing on an oak or hickory on a cold december morning. believe me i know... and i have broken two carbon axes which were made in china! do some homework on metalurgy and you will then know exactly what steel and rc is needed in this or that climate for what and when. Stainless steel may be desirable in a hunting or kitchen knife but never a hard working blade. as a collector though i have many of just about every carbon stainless and alloy yet devised and some of my favorite hunting knives are of stainless steels which is fine if you never intend to abuse the knife and as mentioned earlier a carbon blade with a hardness rating intended for cutting and slicing will break if used for throwing chopping or prying. Always use a tough carbon steel for these tasks Tough = medium carbon with rc under 57
 
Frankly, I've not been too impressed by the Mora 2000 in comparison with the Clippers. It looks cool, yes.The elastomer grip is mostly effective, but it's not as effectively sculptured as the other Moras.
I also don't care for the blade geometry for general outdoors tasks. I also am not impressed with it's additional 1/2" in length. Oh well.

I have a couple of stainless mora clippers I really like them...I've been hearing alot of hype about the mora 2000 however is there that much of a difference???
 
i do know ss is not the best for anything really, i just wanted to point out that 12c27 at mora hardness is fairly tough. i have read a few books about metallurgy and heat treatment of steel. didnt want to stir up a sh!tstorm, just wanted to say the ss moras are probably good and tough enough for most tasks, and i abuse the hell out of all my moras. almost no knifechores at all for my moras really, theyre more like multitools :D
 
I prefer the Mora 2000, although the tip is a little on the wide side. My Eriksson's have a slightly larger bevel and more acute edge than my Frosts, and I prefer them slightly. I really like the handle on the Mora 2000.

I prefer stainless for food tasks, and yes, carbon will take more abuse. Either pair the knife with a larger one (as suggested) or adjust your tasks accordingly (as also suggested). For the money, either is a great knife.
 
So to go back to the original question. The Clipper and Mora 2K are two very different knives. Whether you would see a practical difference in use is a question you have to answer on your own.

I definately think the Clipper is the more practical knife. However, I personally would feel more comfortable with the clipper as an around camp knife for smaller tasks. For an unknown situation or hiking, the 2k would be my choice simply because it is a more robust design.

sean
 
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