Close to a Sebenza?

Westflorida

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I have recently sold off my Sebenza and I am looking for another knife that has a fit and finish that is close to a Sebenza. I got rid of the Sebenza because it is a little too boring and plain. Here are my requirements for my next knife.

*3-4"blade
*lock- any as long as it is strong
*fairly lightweight
*between $100-300

My current picks that I am deciding between are

*Spyderco Military
*Spyderco Para-military
*Spyderco ATR titanium
*Spyderco civilian
*Strider SNG(I would have to throw in another $100 for this knife).

Thanks, Steve
 
The Swamp Rat Rat Trap has perhaps the slickest lock I have handled for a while and it is built like a Strider (almost). Fit and finish is on a par with the best of 'em, though not as machined as the Sebbie.
 
What about a custom, for the price of a strider (okay maybe a bit more depening on who you buy from) you could get something great from Jens Anso or Kevin Wilkins.
 
I want to see a picture of the Rat Trap. I couldn't find one at the official site.
 
Good luck in your quest. I don't think it will be easy.

That being said I like the ritter grip, better then the milatary or paramilitary.

On paper the ATR seems pretty close. but to me it seems like just a different knife.
 
What about a Benchmade 635 mini-Skirmish? Lightweight, frame lock, Ti frame, S30V, wicked recurve blade, and enough bling to give it character without going overboard.
 
I have a spyderco military and love it, my skirmish (the original) is great although a little large and heavy for daily carry. Check out the folders from combat elite, i have a RRF (about $200) and love it. All things considered i would probably go with a manix or one of the smaller skirmishes.
Theo
 
ZDP189, I don't even see that the Rat Trap is listed as one of the knives he makes on his web site.

I don't think that knife has a very high public profile. I know a lot of guys that would love to have one and have posted having trouble finding it.

It is nice though, I'll say that.

Steve, I don't think any of the knives on your list are going to be vey similar to what you had. But the Para-Military or the Military are what I'd look at strongly. Both are great knives and will perform very well but if you thought the Sebbie was plain I doubt you are going to think much different about the ones on your list.
 
If you're gonna kick up the price for a SnG you might also want to check out Rick Hinderers work. The FireTacs are about as close to a Sebbie in fit and finish as it gets and they come in different flavors, inlays, and blade profiles for roughly the same price. He does very nice work.

oil
 
OilMan said:
If you're gonna kick up the price for a SnG you might also want to check out Rick Hinderers work. The FireTacs are about as close to a Sebbie in fit and finish as it gets and they come in different flavors, inlays, and blade profiles for roughly the same price. He does very nice work.

oil

Oil man...you beat me by 2 minutes to this response. Defintiely look at a Hinderer...I have a firetac on order and i canot wait.
 
agony said:
What about a Benchmade 635 mini-Skirmish? Lightweight, frame lock, Ti frame, S30V, wicked recurve blade, and enough bling to give it character without going overboard.

Agony,
Is the mini-Skirmish BM635 ground from thinner stock? Are the grinds more acute?

The Skirmish is a well built knife, I am suprised by the precision that Benchmade was able to get, fit and finish is excellent on mine. The lock up is tight, opens very smooth. It is a very attractive knife. The only downsides are that it is really too big for me to carry and it does not cut very well.

Mine has edge angle of about 22 degrees per side, it is a saber flat ground to over .030" behind the edge (~.030-.035" along the length of the blade).

As well, there have been reports of problematic heat treat.

Having a poor blade profile for utility work (I am not qualified to speak on its usefulness as a weapon as that does not interest me at all) shows not only in its actual cutting performance, but also in areas like edge holding.

Despite being made of a fairly strong and hard steel with good wear resistance, it is not equal to a simple Swiss Army knife in edge holding on cardboard. The SAK, properly sharpened, will cut just as much cardbaord if not more before becoming functionally dulled (not able to make cuts smoothly, has to be powered through).

How can this be? A SAK has cheap steel, not known for edge retention, right?

The answer lies in its blade and edge profile. It starts out cutting much better, so it takes much longer before it is functionally dull. Here is an analogy: My 20 year old Toyota is pretty slow. But it will outrace a Corvette in a 1/4 mile race if you give it a far enough head start (like 1200 feet!).

The SAK blade is .010" or so behind the edge and is running under 15 degrees per side (it was sharpened at 10 degrees per side a while back, but has since been sharpened quite a bit at 15 degrees and the microbeve, has climbed up the edge so to speak, thickening it.)

skirm0027ag.jpg


It takes far less pressure to cut through the carbaord with a thin sharp blade, so it has to make several runs through the material just to be where the Skirmish is starting out at.

Hold on now, the Skirmish has a different scope of work than the SAK, right? Yeah, that is true, so lets look at a knife that has a similiar scope of inended work from the Same company, the 710 in M2 steel. A knife near and dear to my heart.
skirm0019fc.jpg


The 710 has a blade of harder, more wear resistant, yet tougher steel. I say it is tougher, despite the claims of Crucible because I hear about S30V chipping all the time, and I have used the heck out of my M2 blades without trouble, and this is with much thinner edges than seen on most S30V blades.

My 710, over the course of a half dozen years, has cut hundreds of yards of cardboard, carpet, drywall, plastic tubing and pipe, thin metals, tons of wood and fiberglass insulation. It has scraped old gaskets off a cylinder head, deburred aluminum, copper and brass, and just in general been put to hard use.

The edge has been reset many times, especially after runs of carpet and insulation. It was at ~.025 bhind the 30 degree edge, now it is starting to creep past the .030" mark. This is after years of hard use.

It still easily out cuts the Skirmish and stays sharper much longer.

The handle is more secure and ergonomis. It can be used in more grips comfortably than the Skirmish, and the G10 is much easier to hang on to with wet hands than the slick Ti on the Skirmish.

The clip design is far better, it is easier to carry and far less obtrusive.

The Axis lock can be operated with either hand, indeed the whole knife can be switched for left or right hand carry. As well, soem people have reported problems with frame locks and torque failures. See Cliff Stamp's post on the subject.

The more subtle recurve is better suited to most tasks, and the point offers much better penetration.

The Skirmish is probably a better looking knife though, especially compared to my beat up old 710.

So, what knife did I carry before I started using the 710? A Sebenza, of course.


That is just my opinion though, based on my observations.
 
knifetester said:
... is a saber flat ground to over .030" behind the edge (~.030-.035" along the length of the blade).
That is just silly for a folding knife designed to cut things. That is where I would run a large chopping knife if I wanted to be able to do power cuts into knots and be able to take heavy rock impacts and cold chisel cut metals without danger of primary grind damage.

I like the looks of some of Benchmades designs, and reprofiling them isn't really a problem, but I can't bring myself to whack that much money for a knife that has to see a belt grinder when there are so many out there that are decent NIB.

Nice shot of the Axis, well used, I would puukko-grind the primary right back down and then micro bevel as required. I did this recently to the Fulcrum IID, still can't cut thick media of course, but handles wood work, ropes, and such really well now and still has the insane blade strength due to the absurd stock and primary grind.

-Cliff
 
ZDP-189 said:
The Swamp Rat Rat Trap has perhaps the slickest lock I have handled for a while and it is built like a Strider (almost). Fit and finish is on a par with the best of 'em, though not as machined as the Sebbie.

Is it as thin as it looks in the pictures? I'm somewhat amazed because from what I've seen, Busse and SRKW mainly make sharpened prybars. It reminds me alot of my Al Mar S2K. I'm not sure about that hump in the handle towards the rear, though. I guess I'd have to handle one...

Mark
 
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