I was thinking about it tonight while I was at my daughters softball game.. I can offer both as a third option for an added cost.
Adding the lashing points (the way I do them) is roughly the same amount of time and effort as adding the embedded Tee Nuts and drop loop strap, which is why its a trade off on the options for me. I am going to add an option to get both for an additional $25 for anyone interested.
Would a baldric be a potential add-on as well?
Do you think that a Baldric carry option would be too silly? Too extravagant?
I don't think a Baldric is silly at all, and am happy to take orders for them but not on the same timeline as the sheaths. They are pretty time consuming and need to be done with few distractions during a couple of critical points or they don't line up right. If you order one separately more than likely you'll have it before the K18 & sheath.
I also want to clarify something as a few people have referenced a baldric, none of the options being offered have a baldric included. I have a lot of customers rig a paracord or nylon webbing baldric with the pack sheath, and the drop loop will connect to my Baldric using the QD swinging carabiner I sell. They are made in Sweden by Casstrom and have been load tested to over 700 pounds. Either sheath option can be used with a Baldric but one is not included.
If you want to order a Baldric rig just email me separately and we can start a regular order for one. If you just want one of the QD carabiner's you can add it to your order for the sheath and I will include it when I ship, the cost for just the carabiner is $14.
My Baldric's are purpose built, the straps are inlaid into the middle layer of the three layer panel. The panel is my normal English Bridle, the straps are horse draw straps that are made in America by a company who has made horse draw straps for over 100 years, you could probably use it to pull your ATV out of a ditch if needed. All of the hardware is stainless except the latch hook which is nickel coated brass because I have not been able to find that configuration in stainless. They run $90 plus shipping.
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Yes, after his suggestion I added a third option to get both for an additional $25 - I think it's a great option
Not stupid at all.
If you look at my AK47 sheath I make it canted, but on that one I make the loop sliding so it can be adjusted for cant preference and the weight difference of the Micarta and G-10 scales. If the canted sheath does not balance at the right point the weight of the blade will just tip the belt loop and try to go vertical anyway or worse yet, toward the butt. In my experience very few people will carry this on their belt due to the weight, which I think is evidenced by the number of comments about a baldric. A lot of people use the belt loop for baldric carry, even if it's just 3 feet of paracord over the shoulder.. After the sheaths are shipped if someone wants a canted carry loop option I can make that separate and set it up to use the same mounting points as the drop loop.
All that said, if you have the belt to handle it you should be able to belt carry this, I'm only 5' 10 with a 30" inseam and can carry an 18" blade in one of my sheaths pretty easily. I also place the two leg tie holes at the bottom of the loop which places the tie off point just above the knee so it doesn't get uncomfortable. The holes down at the bottom of the sheath tend to put it around the knee or even lower when active which is a pretty uncomfortable experience. My goal is to have the ties resting comfortably loose between 2" from the crotch to 2" above the knee.
With regard to weight and balance, most large knives balance within an inch or two of the same point on the knife, (choil or lower guard) regardless of their size. That difference equates to maybe an inch of difference on where the balance point of the sheath needs to be. When I design any sheath I position the belt loop so the balance is below the loop, which is what I'll do on this one too.
There are a few different designs out there that I have used over the years for drop loop sheaths, but my final design on them is the one shown in the first post. It is removable with two screws and in most cases has a standoff that allows a belt to be slid behind the drop loop for a high ride position, so you get two positions in one sheath without making any changes.
Hope this covers everything but let me know if you have any more questions, thanks!