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Thanks for the great info everyone. It is especially helpful, Mike, with your explanation of the mechanics behind it. It helps me understand that the build of the knife, while maybe cosmetically not perfect, is mechanically done properly, and it's because of that that the cosmetic variance exists. In truth, it doesn't actually look that bad in person, as in the enlarged closeup photo that I posted. Where it is actually more noticeable is moreso the feel in running my finger along it. At the end of the day, it does help to know that it is not considered some sort of defect. I am a bit torn, because personally, I do not care for the way the shield sits, but if given the alternative to return it or keep it, I definitely think I am leaning towards keeping it. As for a swap (or return and get a different one), I've looked at the photos of the few that are still available online with a couple of the dealers and it appears, when you closely look at the photos, that every other one seems to have the same recess in the shield inlay. The few that look like they sit flush, or nearly flush, have patterning on the covers that I don't like nearly as much as the one I have. So my choice is to either be ok with the shield setting on the one I have with covers I really like, or replace it with one with a better/flusher shield setting and end up with covers that I don't like as much (or return it altogether, but that is not really an option I'm considering). I think I'm probably going to be keeping this one.


knifeswapper said:
The *frame* is placed parallel when they essentially route out the recess for the shield. Thus if the stag is not even, and it seldom is, there will be some variance. Generally in highly textured stag you don't notice it as well as Elk stag. Since the shield has a pin already on the back of it and can't be set in un-even; would you rather they left the other end above the stag? Bend the pin and set it at a 30 degree angle so fleas could ski down it? Ground out a little flat spot in the stag before routing? In trying to come up with another solution in the most unforgiving horn, I am at a loss (maybe trash the set of horn and raise the price of every other knife $1).

There will always be these little things one person other other can spot. And there will always be those that tell you they don't consider it a problem and those that tell you to get it back to the dealer asap. The fact of the matter is that you have to decide if it works for you. No factory or dealer would consider either of those issues a defect, or even an anomaly for that matter. But if you don't like it, send it back. Generally on these types of hot sellers you can expect a refund instead of replacement. And I can near assure you that GEC would not fix the shield issue - they would have your dealer refund you and they would give him the option to have it back or get a refund (and the next buyer would be tickled to have found one).

The moral to the story is that YOU have to decide if it is going to bother you every time you rub on it. You can ask on a public forum and get a lot of opinions; but I have found if they don't match the way I was already thinking, I don't get much solace from them. If it will bother you, send it back as a personal preference return. If you don't like the way you are treated, go on down the road to the next dealer. There have only been a couple that couldn't find a dealer that they could get along with :D
Click to expand...
 
heres a fair shot of my Natural Stag Viper.




I would rather them sink the shield further into the Stag/Bone rather than cut down the material to match,that would look crazy.
 
Mikael W said:
Here's the shield of my GEC Northfield #42 in Natural Stag.

LvEE0G.jpg


I think differences in shield recesses, has more to do with the antler.
It belongs to the style and add a lot of character.
If it was me, I would use the knife and get another one for the collection.


Regards
Mikael
Click to expand...


That's Perfect.
 
Peregrin said:
If the surface of the shield is parallel (or close to parallel) with the liner then I think it's inlet properly. The horn thickness dictates how the shield sits. I've got a Scagel Fruitport in stag that looks a lot worse then that. It really doesn't bother me at all.
Click to expand...
I once saw a scagel by Northwoods (can't remember the model) that had a full, little chunk of the arrowhead missing to accommodate for a bump the in stag.

I didn't know whether to be disgusted or love it's uniqueness. Still torn, haha.
 
Received an American Elk 42 today and the shield does not sit flush,have to look for it to notice it.
 
I recently got my 47 GEC in elk, and the shield is not completely flush, but not as dug out as yours is. I think this is just the nature of a natural material they are using. Elk or stag will not be perfectly smooth without altering the uniqueness of the up and down of the handle material.

If I were happy with the Elk handles, I would probably keep it and chalk it up to the unique characteristic of that piece of elk. If I was unhappy with it every time I saw it, I'd email Chris at GEC, and see if it couldn't be smoothed without altering the handle material too much.
 
Stag is always hit & miss due to the unique characteristics of each scale. Asymmetric scale thickness is my personal pet peeve, but I have one stag knife that is similarly sunk on one end of the pinned sheild but the alternative would be to have it raised on the other end which would be far worse IMO. I would agree that if it really bothers you to request a swap out from the dealer, but keep in mind that the replacement might not be as good as this one in some other ways.
 
Not just stag, but this primitive bone has a very uneven shield; due entirely to the bulge in the bone.
Doesn't bother me much at all, with the beauty and character of the bone.

PrimRoper.jpg~original


This pic shows the bulge right where the shield edge sinks in deeper.

PrimRoperGaps.jpg~original
 
I agree with the others who say that the shield should be parallel to the liners, the stag will inevitably be at different levels around the shield. Even though i am fussy about the fit and finish of these expensive knives, I can't stand gaps in a new knife, etc, if I had received the OP's knife I would not have even noticed this

on the other hand, remember this thread? where the shield was matched to some fat stag on a Case/Bose, and it looked awful:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...C-2012-update?highlight=case+bose+stag+shield
 
This (non)issue of shield inletting on natural, uneven materials is common on GEC's stag and natural bone knives. The shields are set parallel with the knife's frame without regard to the uneven nature of the handle materials surface. I suppose leaving the shields off would be a solution, but if they are to be incorporated into the finished knife, better they are sunken than proud (sticking out). JMHO
 
There was a time, at the beginning, that GEC did not put the shield on some stag covers. They shipped the shield as a separate item in the tube.
 
Modoc ED said:
There was a time, at the beginning, that GEC did not put the shield on some stag covers. They shipped the shield as a separate item in the tube.
Click to expand...

That is/was only on Genuine Stag Handles, not Burnt Stag. They always put Shields on Burnt Stag. The OP's knife is Elk anyway.
 
rma100 said:
That is/was only on Genuine Stag Handles, not Burnt Stag. They always put Shields on Burnt Stag. The OP's knife is Elk anyway.
Click to expand...

I was careful to say some stag. Yes, the OP's knife is covered with Elk but stag is also being referenced in this thread. WD40 hasn't been mentioned in the thread yet but who knows what could happen.
 
Modoc ED said:
I was careful to say some stag. Yes, the OP's knife is covered with Elk but stag is also being referenced in this thread. WD40 hasn't been mentioned in the thread yet but who knows what could happen.
Click to expand...

Indeed, the thread has wandered from Dan to Beersheba. But, it's still fun.
 
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