Co cobolo

H

hellgap

Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
1,189
I am trying a wood ive never tried looked nice ,its heavy and dense but burns very easy worse than maple. Is this common I had to go to 80 grit and place no pressure on it before it wouldnt burn the wood black . If i place any presure while sanding it burns black. Any sugestions??? This was sanded on the new grinder speed is 1725 rpm . I do have a small 1 inch might be better for wood. ??
 
Grinding wood on a platen or wheel will cause burns very fast. I make quick, brief passes if I'm using the platen, and I'll work around the handle not spending too much time in one spot so that heat doesn't build up. Also, after the initial roughing with the 36 grit belt (which can be worked pretty heavy without burning too much), I do almost all the rest of my grits on the slack belt. It builds much less heat and gives a nice organic contour.

--nathan
 
thanks nathan i was sanding on the flat platen. I tried a piece of maple on slack belt and was really nice sanding. the co cobolo has alot of the same properties as maple. kellyw
 
Nathan,
Thanks for the slack belt tip ! I've got some cocobolo also and have already experienced some flat platen Maple burn. I'll certainly be trying out the slack belt in the near future.
-Josh
 
Using dull belts, especially on the end grain will encourage scorching. Make sure you are using new belts--that will help.

Tad Lynch
 
I only do rough handle shaping on belts. The rest of the work is done with files and sandpaper.
 
Plus one on the slack belt for rough shaping and handwork for final shaping. I've ruined a couple nice handles trying to do too much too fast on the grinder. :(
 
After slack belt and file shaping I use shop roll in various grits. Place the blade in a rotating knife vice and use the shop roll like you are shining shoes.

Be sure to protect the blade with leather while in the vice.
 
There's definitely more control with hand shaping following initial roughing, and you don't have to worry about burning the material. It can be done all with belts, you just have to be careful. I've found a method that works well for me on the belts with only final sanding about 400 done by hand. You've got to figure out what works best for you and grow that.

--nathan
 
Thanks for all the extra tips ive been playing. The slack belt works awesome and i went to using 80 then stopped at 120 grit it worked real good and really fast. I clean my belts every so often and that also helped to stop the burning of the wood. It never burned once in slack belt mode. Once i ruffed it out then i did the shoe shine trick in the vice to get my shape . Will levet might even like the one i just finished. I just a pile of knives back fron heat treat so ill be doing 2 or three a day . I made a bunch of mosaic pin anf lanyard tube so i m ready for it. lol I did although make one minor mistake by not lining up my mosaic lanyard tube but because the pin sare just round brass stock it doesnt look that bad. I really like these small skinners i m making . I will have no problem selling them , everyone ive showed wants one lol pictures in the next few days thanks for the cocobolo sanding tips. kellyw
 
a good rasp will quickly shape up some coco...and you don't have to worry bout the dust with a rasp.... its a real oily wood ...

then i do the same as Jim... with the shoe shine rolls...


and a lite buff with white... it'll shine like a pearl
 
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