Coarse Diamond Stone?

Trout Hound

Trout Hound

Joined
Sep 28, 2014
Messages
693
Okay, since I got my waterstone, I am quickly realizing that I am going to spend a small fortune in SiC paper to keep it flat. So, I'm thinking about getting a coarse diamond bench stone that I can use to lap other stones, and maybe to do some basic blade reprofiling. But, I have no money to spend on it right now, so I need to get out as cheap as I reasonably can. I was looking at the Smith's 6" coarse interrupted stone. I know it won't be as high quality as the DMT, but will it do a reasonable job? Thanks.
 
Yes, water stones require lapping often. You'll ruin a diamond stone in short order. Try lapping on a flat area of concrete. DM
 
I didn't realize it would ruin the diamond stone that quickly. Even without using much pressure? Maybe I should look at one of the flattening stones then?
 
David Martin said:
Yes, water stones require lapping often. You'll ruin a diamond stone in short order. Try lapping on a flat area of concrete. DM
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This is not good advice and I would not recommend doing so to any waterstone.

Diamond plates such as the Atoma 140 or DMT 90 micron Lapping Plate are almost exclusively used to lap waterstones and even designed with is operation in mind. Personally, I prefer the Atoma 140 because the structured diamon surface reduces stiction to almost nothing which is the most wanted feature next to lapping speed in a lapping plate.

For very coarse waterstones stones there are lapping stones like those from Suehiro or Naniwa that range from 20 grit to 120 grit and can be used with silicon carbide lapping powders for faster lapping and better surface texturing. This texturing of the surface is preferred over the use of a diamond plate because the diamonds will actually reduce the effective abrasive size of a coarse stone. This can be overcome by lapping two coarse stones together after the diamond plate is used.

Going cheap will only give you the same problem you are currently experiencing, lapping tools that are not efficient and don't last.
 
Jason B. said:
This is not good advice and I would not recommend doing so to any waterstone.

Diamond plates such as the Atoma 140 or DMT 90 micron Lapping Plate are almost exclusively used to lap waterstones and even designed with is operation in mind. Personally, I prefer the Atoma 140 because the structured diamon surface reduces stiction to almost nothing which is the most wanted feature next to lapping speed in a lapping plate.

For very coarse waterstones stones there are lapping stones like those from Suehiro or Naniwa that range from 20 grit to 120 grit and can be used with silicon carbide lapping powders for faster lapping and better surface texturing. This texturing of the surface is preferred over the use of a diamond plate because the diamonds will actually reduce the effective abrasive size of a coarse stone. This can be overcome by lapping two coarse stones together after the diamond plate is used.

Going cheap will only give you the same problem you are currently experiencing, lapping tools that are not efficient and don't last.
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Jason, thank you very much for your advice. I was hoping that you would chime in on this. I just found a very good price on a DMT DiaSharp XC plate (60 micron). Would that do what I need? Thanks!
 
I also saw a recommendation from Lee Valley Tool (Leonard Lee is their president) for the use of a DMT Coarse interrupted benchstone for flattening waterstones. Thoughts on this?
 
I just realized that the only diamond stones/plates that are even remotely in my price range are the 6x2" - same width as my waterstone, and obviously not ideal for lapping. I will probably go with a flattening stone. Already sold the Mrs. on the economics of the situation. 👍
 
Wait, just realized the Naniwa lapping stones are only about 6 3/4" x 2 1/8" anyway. Now I'm just talking to myself. Somebody help!!! 🙀
 
I have a DMT 220 grit diamond plate that I use for flattening waterstones. It cost me about $50, and was money well spent! Don't try to save money on the plate, just get a good one and be done with it.
 
Okay, this is what I've found that I can afford right now:

1. DMT XC DiaSharp plate, 6x2"
2. DMT XC or C benchstone, 6x2"
3. Norton Flattening Stone
4. Naniwa Flattening Stone (what grit?)

Will any of these get me the results I need? I would love to do one of the diamond sharpeners, because I could also use it for sharpening/reprofiling, but only if it will do what I need with the waterstones.

Could really use some advice on this. Thanks!
 
Save your money. 3/4 of those are 6x2 and that gets you nowhere on the average 8x3 waterstone. You need a lapping stone/plate at least equal or larger the size of the stone to be lapped.

I know many do but it's only recommended that the DMT XXC and specified lapping plates be used for lapping. I have used a coarse DMT for lapping and it tore diamonds from the plate.

I highly recommend you save and purchase the Atoma 140 plate.
 
I recommend it for oil stones but not waterstones. It can be done for very coarse waterstones but much beyond 220 it chews up the stone.
 
I've seen some folks use the grid on the back of a ceramic tile. Is that actually any good? Don't know how flat it would actually be, or how much it might dish. (Not trying to get out of this for cheaper than I can do it well. I'm just genuinely curious about that one.)
 
I've tried it but didn't find it to be that great of a option.
 
Jason B. said:
I've tried it but didn't find it to be that great of a option.
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Figured as much. Just wondering.

I just started another thread about loose SiC grit. I know that's a good option, and I have the plate glass. Might give it a try.
 
Go Atoma and be done. The 140 is great for all around flattening and establishing bevels. I would have all four if I could afford them.
 
Jason's advice is exactly what you should follow in this thread. I've probably flattened more stones than everybody on this thread combined - in the thousands. Atomas - specifically the 140 is a superior solution compared to anything else out there. I use it on 120, 150 and 180 stones all the time and finer. These coarser grits will eat a DMT XXC which is significantly coarser than the XC DMT and anything else isn't in the race. Eventually you will get one if you continue to sharpen. Just to reemphasize, DON'T use a sidewalk to flatten stones. They aren't that flat and can massively contaminate your stone. A 24 grit stone is so much better than a sidewalk. I'm even more of a purist on this point than Jason. Listen to Jason.

---
Ken
 
Just some alternative suggestion - the diamond plate is probably a better way to go, I don't use one myself. I took my old Chinese 12k for which I had no use, and hatched it with a diamond sawsall blade. I use this on my waterstones and Jointer stones just the way it is, and if lapping a hard stone like Arkansas, India, silicon carbide, I'll use some 120 grit SiC as a lapping abrasive.

I have also done this treatment to a couple of stones and it does a good job. So far the 12k is holding up very well to this assignment. Is likely a bit slower than the diamond plate but is pretty versatile in that it works great with a slurry.

Increasing the number of hatches would probably speed it up.

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