Coating removal on a Becker

StuntDouble

StuntDouble

Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
2,502
I'm thinking about removing the coating from my BK7 and bluing the blade. I just wanted to find the best way to go about removing the epoxy coating.
 
Emory cloth and elbow grease (or just drag it down a gravel road behind a pickup truck). You could try various solvents and see if they work.
 
Chris Mapp said:
I'm thinking about removing the coating from my BK7 and bluing the blade. I just wanted to find the best way to go about removing the epoxy coating.
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How about Paint Remover?
 
citrus paint remover, no noxtious fumes.Let it sit over night.Do Not Blue The Blade if used for food preperation!!:barf: :eek:
 
I use Citristrip and follow the directions on the container. Let it soak for about 20 minutes and the coating peels right off. I got it at Home Depot and I'm sure you can find it in most major hardware stores.
 
I took the coating off my necker with some stripper I got at Advance Auto Parts. It'll blister the coating off in about 15-20 mins. Its in a red spray can, don't remember the name.
 
Do Not Blue The Blade if used for food preperation!!
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I use my blued blades for food prep nearly everyday. Why would you not? It is just an evenly distributed oxidized layer no different than a knife like grandma's old butcher knife that had the same thing only not so even and built up over many years of use. The selenium dioxide or whatever other source you use to blue with is not still on the blade after it is blued and cleaned off and scoured with a steel wool pad under the faucet. All that is left is the evenly distributed oxidized layer. If you have information contrary to this please share it or if you are referring to a different method of bluing maybe. To the best of my knowledge there are no reasons to prevent you from using a blued blade for food prep.

STR
 
hey there.. I know that acetone is what some knife customizers use to strip coatings on blades...
 
Hi STR, I have used cold blueing on a few blade's over the year's and found that the acid's in meat and citris make the blueing come off on the Item's leaveing a black resideue and taste.
 
I have noticed on mine that I've blued and kept that when cutting meats or acidic fruits or veges that it does cause additional spotting on top of the bluing but I've never seen the bluing come off really. I rather like the patina that forms naturally but it is never very even or good looking so getting it spread out early by bluing has always worked for my handmades. I blued the one in my signiture line and use it quite often to cut up some apple slices every morning (when it is the one I'm carrying) for my oatmeal and if anything it just formed some spots where it was even looking before. The bluing helps to cover up the spotting so it doesn't look so bad though. It seems odd to me that it would wipe off. After bluing mine I scrub them hard with a steel wool pad under the faucet and it won't come off even then.
 
It may be a bit pitted under the coating so bare that in mind when you start. You may have to spend considerable time with emery cloth to get rid of the pits and rough bits that the coating hid.

I did this on an Ontario SP6 a while ago and tool it to #2000. It took about 3 hours to do and most of that was trying to get rid of the aforementioned pits and what-not.

Surprisingly the 1095 hasnt even tarnished since it was done and its been in its sheath outside.
 
Acetone has been known to work, I remember it was reportedly used on Busse coatings. Be careful with acetone and plastics though. A search will bring up more info - at least a couple of good threads.

Rust remover can be useful in some cases. The coating on my Glock FK78 didn't react at all to acetone, but rust remover gel took it right off. I don't remember what the stuff was exactly, and I'm not home so I can't check the label. I've written about it on a couple of threads, so a search will help again.
 
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