cocobolo & bicodi tactical hunter

:eek::eek::eek: JG, I see the road less travelled was way too crowded for ya. Big props to you for beating your own path. :thumbup: Its difficult to be truly different and still keep w/ the functional concept of the tool, but that handle looks quite comfy and the multitude of edges and teeth leaves me only to imagine the cutting options. It'll be interesting to hear your take on knife design.
 
I want to share my creativity, Its only metal and the end result is up to me. Thats why every knive i make is CUSTOM. There is no end to the creative mind!
 
Just lookin for a little input on the design with this knive. So please tell me what you think about all the file work and design
 
While the blade is not to my taste, (which doesn't necessarily mean anything), I very much like the handle and I think it would look good, and probably be very comfortable, on a more "conventional" style of blade.

This comment is not meant to crimp your style BTW, keep at it, creativity is what creates new and better things.
 
Thanks the handle is comfy. This was my first knife and i'll be the first to say i went a lil overboard on the file work. The blade was persay a test to see how much i'd enjoy making knifes. Had to test my ability to make wild knifes some how ya know?
 
the handle looks great, but the blade looks a whole lot rougher. So aesthetically they don't exactly match. Which means the appeal to a buyer would probably be it's usefullness, rather than as a display knife. Maybe you can describe the utility advantages of this design, to pull folks in?
 
What exactly do you mean the blade looks rough? The design, or that i had paper towel fibers and a couple oil smudges on it that didnt get completly cleaned before the pics? Bottom line is do i need to post better pics or the design just no good in your eyes?
 
My take: it looks to me more an art knife- which is cool, but not something I generally buy.

From a "user" perspective:
I would approach it with RG mindset. The serrations on the spine, and the curvature would make for good shearing traps, but carrying the serrations onto the body of the blade isnt' necessary, and may be reducing its strength (without knowing the stock thickness.) I wouldn't see need for the insets on the leading edge...

The inset with serrations is something I would picture more on a hard-use utility blade, where you had a rounded spine, and coud pull on the back, and slide the blade around a stalk/shaft, whathave you, to sever it, ala a pipe-cutting action.

It's very kris-like, and has an excellent fantasy appeal, but that may be a limited market...
 
Rob this was my first knife i made and its 3/16" 1095. The serrations arnt deep in the body. I realize now where the market is thats why i droped the price so much. Got new projects goin and just tryin to move what i have up here now.
 
OK.. *my* take on it.. get a really good picture of a tom brown tracker, and look at both. do some comparisons.

I think your design is non-existent, you built it without ever designing it. If there's an error that's it. No obvious goal, 'it just grew'.

the haft looks comfy, fits a filet knife. The blade has several features that are worth contemplating, and there's a lot to explore in an effort to rationalize/normalize and still keep the utility, while adding symmetry and smoothing out transitions. I wouldn't suggest you change directions, but rather stay on firm ground and plod on!

Things I like: the round bit with serrations on it, hmm. nice, where does it FIT properly? The 'teeth'.. well.. I've often wished for a sawtooth edge on a knife that was actually intended to saw something, actually ABLE to saw something. Hand filing the teeth is likely not as effective as making a jig, and using a 3/16 chainsaw sharpening dremel diamond bit on a rotary-shaft tool.. (10 to 1 better than a hand-held dremel) Anyway, *even* SHARP teeth, properly cut and spaced to do a job, would be a big selling point with folks tired of 'let's pretend' tacticool teeth. I like points that are solid, not flimsy.... and I like points that are sharp enough to pick a splinter.. (better be, or i'll find a knife that is) .. and I like points that exactly CENTER the knife.. if the point identifies the line of force in a thrust, it's in the right place and there sure IS a right place for any 'all around' blade.

I think you'ld be well served to carve out wooden models. The time invested would be recovered by faster production of an evolved and clearly defined design. . not to mention that after you're established, those models alone will have significant value. (really for sure!).. it'd save you time now, and make you money later, and very likely prevent you ruining a few knives due to blurry concepts.

Stock removal knives aren't so very difficult to DO.. if you have superior tools and a machinists precision. Both are less than common.. but you can BUY good tools, and lots of folks will be encouraging.. and you can build precision, but it's not going to get any applause, just folding money... :)

so, that knife has several good ideas, proves you have the creative spark, but thinking with your hands won't pay the rent. use your head for thinking, even if it's not your habit yet.

I sympathize with you, I learned leatherwork by buying a big whacking hide of leather and honing my Case XX Sodbuster (large, CV steel) and thinking with my hands the first year.. and dear lord I wasted leather. . but I built some exceptional things, too, way over my head on quality.. ONCE I LEARNED TO DO THINGS DELIBERATELY AND PRECISELY *ONCE*.. instead of literally whittling my way into the idea. ONCE I LEARNED TO START WITH CARDBOARD.. and use the pattern for my experiments and modifications, and get it all out of my system for sure.. and then MEASURE everything, and add notes, and point at trouble spots and detailed finish work spots, and highlight the don'ts, and highlight the critical 'do-es'.. BEFORE cutting the leather, and then AFTER cutting it READ MY OWN NOTES AND PAY ATTENTION.. as to what happened next..

and it wasn't nearly as fun. it was one heck of a lot more educational, it paid better, and the work went faster with less wasted time and materials..

the goal isn't to prove you can do it, or even the satisfaction of turning your own idea into reality, and CERTAINLY not just the money.. the goal is to improve YOURSELF.. and by the way make exceeding good products that OTHERS will brag on, and you'll sort of excrete as a byproduct of your dedication to improvement.

doing it out of enthusiasm without a disciplined METHOD runs the risk of losing interest on a day when you're not in the creative mode. Building PATTERNS in the creative mode leaves straight production lots of room between ideas, to copy and duplicate your own successes. Experiment in ones, sell the successes in dozens.

They sure don't HAVE to be 'every one custom'.. and to do it that way means you failed to hone and perfect the design to the point it acquired some drop of universal acceptance. When you can build TWO knives of your own design, and even YOU can't tell them apart.. you're there. None of this is meant to be patronizing a bit, self taught is hard learning. Shortcuts are hard to find on your first efforts.. READ ABOUT THE MASTERS.. and work on models. :)
 
Mitch Im here to tell you this is my first knife i ever built and what you see is what i came away from the grinder with! If i wanted to make production knifes id put out a line of your every day jo blow knifes. Look at the latest two iv posted and iv come along way in the last few knifes iv made. These two of my latest are numbers 4 &5 for me. If any one thinks theses are crap for my 5 knifes iv ever built, than so be it! I have good review on the one knife i sold and hes ordering another now so im clearly doing something right. thanks mitch
 
Jg, I dont think Mitch was trying to push your buttons, and I think he had some really good advice. I took some of my first knives to my knifemaking mentor to inspect. I was really proud of them and he tactifully told me what needed to change. I am glad I took all of his suggestions, because now years later, my knives have improved drastically. It is good that you sold your knife (even though you should keep your first knife, you will treasure it years later), but Mitch had some really good suggestions. No one on the forum wants to make production knives, but it is good to be able to repeat knife design and characteristics, it shows control over your craft. Take Mitch's advice with a grain of salt if you want, but take it. Constructive criticism will improve your knives much faster than praise. I dont mean to offend, just offering advice, take it or leave it if you want.

Matt
 
The last few knifes iv made there not by the seat of my pants. They are exactly what i intended them to be if not better than i pictured in my head. When i sit down with a piece of flat stock my design is drawn on the steel then, directly from my head. I adjust the detail as i se needed before the it gets cut. I KNOW EXACTLY what i want that blade to be when im finished. My first one was built by the seat of my pants. That is no longer the case. Im taking a little more time on the details that make my work to the next stage of quality. lately iv been doing my home work per say. I started making my first blade like a month in half ago. All im saying is, with the latest two knifes i posted do you think im going in the wrong direction? Are they un practical? Or am i taking steps back in craftsmanship and quality? Please go look at them and then leave me your thoughts. thanks josh
 
All im saying is, with the latest two knifes i posted do you think im going in the wrong direction? Are they un practical? Or am i taking steps back in craftsmanship and quality? Please go look at them and then leave me your thoughts. thanks josh
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I'd be willing to give a bit of feedback, if you start a topic in the appropriate forum area.

Buyers are encouraged to ask questions, however, For Sale threads are not for product discussions. Take it elsewhere. Do not chat up a thread trying to keep it at the top of the exchange area.
 
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