Coining Spacers - Questions

i4Marc

i4Marc

Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Messages
5,048
Ok, I'm not asking about tools. I have checkering files, thread chasing files, triangle files, needle files, jeweler's saw etc. My question is about procedure and planning. If you glue up your spacers with the handle material and shape on the belt or with files you will get nice transitions but you can't get into the spacer to do the coining. If you coin the spacer and shape the other handle components separately, how do you get all the parts assembled in a way that it looks like you sanded it all at the same time so transitions are seamless? I imagine you have to make precise drawings or patterns for all the parts so they can be shaped independently but even with the best planning, doesn't the final assembly still require fine tuning and finish sanding? Wouldn't final shaping and finishing wash out some of the coining? How deep is it practical to cut the grooves?


* I should have mentioned that I'm asking in reference to fixed blades like bowies, hunters, etc.
 
Last edited:
T.A Davison is "THE Man" on coining He may pop in here if you are lucky.
On my liner locking folders one of the last steps before going to file work is to have the scales, liner, and liners assembled and totally finished.The liners are placed back to back and the file work is started, cleaned, and finished.
Frank
 
Take a look at some of the WIP threads from Don Hansen and a few others. You will see that they use alignment pins which connect the guard, spacers, and handle in exact alignment. The asembly can be ground to a perfect fit, disassembled, file worked or coined, and reassembled flawlessly.
 
indexing pins as mentioned above, if all the parts you are grinding are metal you can superglue them together and then break the superglue bond after the shaping is complete but you still need indexing pins to put it all back together correctly.
 
also, I use super glue to temporarily hold pieces together for indexing. works best with cheap super glue.

if the glue won't pop loose after you can throw it in a freezer for a few minutes and it should pop right off.
 
Agreed, pins and superglue. Pin and/or glue everything together and get it all shaped and polished, then pop it back apart and coin the spacers.
 
Another way to pop CA glue apart is to warm the metal. It will pop apart easily when warmed to above 200F. A heat gun works great.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top