Cold steel 4034 vs Buck 420hc

[gazz98]

As for the OP, yes, Buck 420HC >> 4034.

I'll echo what Ed and GGG said, if you cut a lot of plastic banding, grab some wire cutters. They may be more bulky but will do the job better.

As for breaking a lot of safety cutter blades, I've never had that happen to me on a regular basis.

 

[marrenmiller]

Please don't return a knife that you damaged through negligence. They're probably just going to give it to someone else because they're not a knife retailer and don't care.

I have only seen one hardness test figure for Cold Steel's 4034, and it was at 57 HRC (the same as Buck's 420HC, per that testing group). Unless your knife was absolutely botched in heat treatment, I don't think there's going to be a huge difference in strength/edge stability. You could probably benefit from picking a steel that is harder; I don't like to recommend inexpensive production D2 as it might not have a good heat treatment, but you could try that if you want to keep at a low price point.

You mentioned "an overall angle of 25 degrees". Is that 25 inclusive, or per side? I wouldn't put a 25 dps inclusive edge on something that's being used how you're describing.

 

[Alberta Ed]

I've only ever freehanded. I will get a guided system at some point so that I can ensure edge geometry when I need to repair an edge.

An angle guide is all you need, rather than a guided system. Both ensure a precise angle. Another way is to tape a coin or something similar to the blade.

 

[G. Scott H.]

You mentioned "an overall angle of 25 degrees". Is that 25 inclusive, or per side? I wouldn't put a 25 dps inclusive edge on something that's being used how you're describing.

That is the question. Most CS knives I've owned have been anywhere from 20 to 30 degrees per side; however, the Tuff Lites I've owned (2 full size, 1 mini) were all in the neighborhood of 12 degrees per side OOTB. Since the Kiri is a similarly smallish knife with a thinner blade, it could well be like the Tuff Lites, but idk. If so, I'd go for a steeper micro bevel (50-ish degrees included) at the very least for such use.

 

[POCEH KOCEB]

I think it’s not very smart to mandate workers to use particular “safe” equipment/cutters…
‘I had very good experience using curved replacement blades for cutting plastic ties and wraps,
the other mentioned blades will work of course but because of the thickness of the blade it’ll require more force, therefore it puts more pressure on the wrist. Used with slight angle to the tie, those blades will cut like a charm without a chance to damage the actual package.
‘This is what I have in mind, it may work better than the two mentioned knives, of course if you’re allowed to use it
Sorry, couldn’t find smaller picture. This is a blade used in carpeting, they are some variations of it but you get the idea

 

[midnight flyer]

The answer is probably both. No matter how bad 4034 is, it can't be worse than the 8cr on my paraframe.

Almost nothing is worse than a Paragraph... nothing...

For every reason that could be described it was one of the two worst knives I've ever owned that I actually purchased myself.

 

[JAF1973]

You do know that they will repackage it and sell it to someone else? Just resharpen it and don't put your mistakes off on others. By the way those plastic bands have damaged blades on several hundred dollar knives. It's user created damage not something to blame on others. If you can't resharpen it yourself send it in for sharpening or contact somebody who does that service. I'm pretty sure you just described something to a computer that doesn't care. Show some integrity.

Pure truth. Today I got a tiny chip in my Hogue Deka which is CPM20CV steel cutting a wire bread tie. I got the chip out with a good ceramic and steel rod. But I was a bit shocked. I am assuming the thin edge along with high Rockwell could contribute to minor edge chips in some super steels.