Cold Steel Counter Point 2

K

klute

Joined
Dec 25, 2011
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520
Just got one yesterday, wow.

Perfect for NYC carry [sub 3" blade, not a gravity knife can't be flicked open] so it's a huge shot in the arm for me giving me another option as most of my knives tend to be big. I guess i'm getting into a new phase in knife appreciation bcz now i'm going to be looking at more and more smaller folders.

I was carrying a Pocket Bushman i ground down under 3" and that is a cool knife but the Counter Point is so compact, it can go in alot more places in my gear.

Anyway if anyone is looking at getting one the handle material is somewhat textured, i did not know this until mine arrived and that's a big plus.
The F+F is excellent, solid construction all around, blade arrived sharp [razor] the lock is a tiny bit hard to release but i've had no problems and that in itself is a good thing bcz it is near impossible to have an accidental closure. Once open it STAYS open. Lockup is adequate ie tight, no play.
 
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I'd like to see a Counter Point XL, with like a 6" handle / 5" blade, i really think it would give a DDR Maxx a run for it's money
especially with a better blade steel...S90V / 154cm, something like that wohoo.
 
Invisible thread wooooooooooooo.......oooooooo.....[scary music playing]........
 
I think a larger 5" blade version with fancy handles would sell pretty well but Counter Point 1 will be a good size for me since 5" handle is about right for my hands and waistband, jeans pocket, jacket pocket, etc. Might give a go at giving one a stonewashed clip.

Design and build quality are all I care about really as long as the materials are usable.
 
If u get a chance to handle a CP2 you might see the very good ergos i am seeing.

I have somewhat big hands and when i vice grip it, it fits very good / feels solid as hell.
 
I know what you are saying. I get it.

I cut 2 pieces of paper. I know, big deal. Anyway, i'll update this thread in a while with an honest performance opinion.
Performance is the proof in the pudding.

When i started this thread I was hoping someone might give their thoughts on what they observed about this knife.
 
klute said:
I'd like to see a Counter Point XL, with like a 6" handle / 5" blade, i really think it would give a DDR Maxx a run for it's money
especially with a better blade steel...S90V / 154cm, something like that wohoo.
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Good luck with that. That would have to be one heck of a knife to keep me from drooling over an HTM Maxx.
 
TriviaMonster said:
Good luck with that. That would have to be one heck of a knife to keep me from drooling over an HTM Maxx.
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This is the thing here. I'm tired of drooling too, but i don't have the coin to buck up for a Maxx anytime soon.
So let's get it on with the Counter Point XL, Grivory handle / steel liners / S30v blade for less than $100
 
OrdnanceBubbaUSMC said:
I think a larger 5" blade version with fancy handles would sell pretty well but Counter Point 1 will be a good size for me since 5" handle is about right for my hands and waistband, jeans pocket, jacket pocket, etc. Might give a go at giving one a stonewashed clip.

Design and build quality are all I care about really as long as the materials are usable.
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I too wouldn't mind seeing a 4.5 or 5" one

Personally, I thought the CPII was a bust. First of all, it's a PITA to remove the thumbstuds every time to sharpen it, and second the grind is too short to do my usual 3" folder tasks: lots of slicing and stuff.

It''s a good lucking knife and fun to play with though, so I won't sell mine.
 
res1cue said:
I too wouldn't mind seeing a 4.5 or 5" one

Personally, I thought the CPII was a bust. First of all, it's a PITA to remove the thumbstuds every time to sharpen it, and second the grind is too short to do my usual 3" folder tasks: lots of slicing and stuff.

It''s a good lucking knife and fun to play with though, so I won't sell mine.
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It's not designed to slice, although it can quite well in most materials when adequately sharp.
I know what u mean though, that's what your projection is on the knife and it doesn't match the design.

I think they are cool looking too, but ergos, carryability, construction, and functionality are looking good for
what my projection is, which is SD / utility. I may even partly serrate one, we will see.
The T-studs on mine were functionally removeable, i think they did a good job with that, just unscrew it.
I discarded the T-stud for a tactical [lol] T-stud ie larger flatter knurled disc, i wish i could post a pic.
 
Big Mike said:
Anybody try cutting something with one of these?
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Mike not to be a smartass but this is a $30 knife. I wanted to start a discussion on it is all.

Don't you think learning from the experience of others is a wise thing? That's part of what i'm trying to do.
Right now i want to keep the blade with the edge it now has and not use it, got my reasons.

I'm liking this knife better each day, i'm really impressed with it's apparently excellent construction, i'm a mechanic and generally know when a tool is good just by looking at it. When i get the money i plan to buy another CP 2 so i can start using one and get a better understanding of what it can and cant do.

I had a Al Mar SERE 2K folder of which the CP 2 has a nearly identical blade geometry, so i have a good idea of what this blade type can do, provided it has a decent heat treat. While on that subject it is possible to have a bad heat treat [more likely on a production knife?] and not really know it if the blade performs badly. To avoid subjective judgements like that i try not to judge too much on one sample of a certain knife.

What i'm saying is what if i did some testing and this blade performed poorly? Should i never get another one, even if that ONE was a lemon? And how would i even know?Unless i withheld judgement, especially with this blade although AUS8A which many are familiar with i see that not too many members here seem to have a CP2.

That's kinda cool though.
 
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a bad heat treat will change the hardness of the blade. this means you might notice a difference in edge retention (or possibly chipping). The comment on slicing ability was probably meant to point out the blade geometry. it's obviously not a knife meant for slicing or other practical use. it's meant to look like a "tactical" blade. and i really doubt you're going to see a bad heat treat on one CS knife and a good one on another. It's not like they're handmade so they should all be very similar. and though i am no expert on the subject, i kinda doubt a big company like cold steel is going to mess up their heat treatment.
 
fatherhudson said:
a bad heat treat will change the hardness of the blade. this means you might notice a difference in edge retention (or possibly chipping). The comment on slicing ability was probably meant to point out the blade geometry. it's obviously not a knife meant for slicing or other practical use. it's meant to look like a "tactical" blade. and i really doubt you're going to see a bad heat treat on one CS knife and a good one on another. It's not like they're handmade so they should all be very similar. and though i am no expert on the subject, i kinda doubt a big company like cold steel is going to mess up their heat treatment.
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Not meant for slicing nope it is not. I was thinkin though, with those big commercial HT ovens isnt there a higher probability of a "cool" or "hot" spot in such a mass production type of deal? A knife can also be a lemon in other ways, we've seen it here on the discussions a bad Benchie or Spydie every now and then for xyz reason. There was a Strider or 2 as well, probably among others.

I plan to use it as my go-to in a life threatening situation. It carries very well clipped in rear pocket.
 
Nope. EDC'd the SERE for 2 years though, beat it up badly. It held it's own, no doubt, solid.

I cant even approach my dream of a Benchie 275, so i'll stick with the bowling + Bud crowd these days lol.
 
In regards to heat treatment.


Bad heat treatments are very rare in production knives.


Modern techniques are very controllable and repeatable.


Any variation in a batch are usually with in tolerances.


You're much more likely to get a bad HT from smaller makers trying do do it in house then anyone using professionals,

...also, not all companies are willing to pay for the best possible HT.


This is not saying that some blades HT can't be compromised by other steps in finishing the knife,

...like overheating while sharpening.


When it come to a company like Cold Steel, who doesn't make knives themselves but has them made by low bidders; A "Bad" HT might be standard across the board, not really bad, but not up to the full potential of the steel being used.


As an example look at Dozier's D2, his meticulous HT of that steel yields performance beyond what most makers provide.


That said, I have no information on how this steel performs in this application.




Big Mike
 
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Big Mike said:
That said, I have no information on how this steel performs in this application.
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Thanks for your reply, not knowing how this knife performs myself, maybe i will get to the next level here in bladeforums [knife school] and do my own tests on it.

i'm looking at ordering a CP1 now, i think that one + about .750" or so of serrations will be a good work knife, for me anyway, [i'd trade my cold steel AK-47 2.0 for one of those]. See you 'round campus!
 
klute said:
Thanks for your reply, not knowing how this knife performs myself, maybe i will get to the next level here in bladeforums [knife school] and do my own tests on it.

i'm looking at ordering a CP1 now, i think that one + about .750" or so of serrations will be a good work knife, for me anyway, [i'd trade my cold steel AK-47 2.0 for one of those]. See you 'round campus!
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Bases on recent posts in the "Cold Steel Counter Point I quick review" thread (review sub-forum),

...performance of the steel/HT on these seems better then expected,

...according to those who did not expect much.




Big Mike
 
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