Cold steel Finn Wolf and Long Hunter first impressions

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Did the title wrong... I keep getting bear and wolf mixed up, this is the finn wolf.


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one of the things thats common in a lot of tactical knives these days is the the knife is more then 50% handle, even when it's a large knife. the tiny little finn wolf next to the busse batac actually has almost as much cutting edge, while the long hunter, with the same length from pommel to tip, has way more cutting edge then then batac. the difference in distribution from what I'm used to is refreshing.

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The long hunter feels large in the hand, but only (for me) because I have to be aware of size when using knives round other people, especially fixed blades. as a camp knife, this isn't to large at all, but as a edc user, it's a touch to big. the handle is secure, though it feels like it would be fairly slippery when greased up because of the smooth hard plastic (though there is plenty of texturing). the ricasso serves as a guard, and it does it's job okay.

The blade is 1/8" [edit: 3/32"] thick, all edge, full flat grind and plenty stiff with a thin edge and tip. It reminds me of the wood handled old hickory knives I bought a long time ago attempting to buy a knife of this category, but this one is head and shoulders above them. The edge and tip indexes well when blind, and it looks great. the blade profile and pleasent sheen from the satin finish reminds me of much higher end much more expensive bowie profiles.

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The finn wolf has less of a gaurd, feeling as though in a hard stab it would slip backward in the hand, exposing the fingers to the edge. If you grip hard, it feels secure enough, but not so secure that you can forget about edge safety.

This little thing has a LOT of edge, and a very fine tip. it's 1/8" thick, stiff, with a hollow grind. I'm really suprised at how thin the edges are on these. it has the same smooth hard plastic handle material as the long hunter, but with a more contoured shape.

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when choking up on the finn wolf you can get a very tight control of a very thin sharp edge, making it good for fine carving and detailed tasks.

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food prep position 1, fine chopping/shaving. the long hunter is a bit wide for this, and the finn wolf handles better in this position, but id does well for it's size.

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food prep position 2, chocked up chefs knife position. handles like a charm.

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the sheaths that come with this are basic canvas pocket stile sheaths, where the edge is kept stable by a strip of rubber at the seem where the two edges of the folded canvas/cardboard (orwhatever it is) meet. I wear fairly tight clothes, a pair of dickies and a plain black shirt, so anywhere where I wear this it shows noticeably, including IWB (which is quite uncomfortable). It wears just fine on the belt, though it's a bit floppy being low ride. if I could wear them on the belt, they would be fine usable sheaths.

the way I carry the finn wolf is just in a pocket. dickies pockets are quite large, and I can push the finn wolf inward and completely conceal it in pocket.

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Here are some modifications I'd love to see on these knives. for the long hunter, I'd love to see a version that has a good half gaurd, a shorter 5" version (I'd use the 5" version over the finn wolf, but not the 7" version), and a longer machete version. the handle and blade shape combination on this thing is really awesome, and I'd love to see how it handles with a longer 1/8" blade.

and for the finn wolf, I'd just like the gaurd to be a little more pronounced.



overall first impressions:
These things are awesome. the handles are usable but don't wear on the hand, the blades are thin, stiff, and with thin SHARP edges right out of the box, not just shaving sharp but actually sharp where if they dull the edge is still thin enough to be usable. The fit and finish is high for the price range, with a nice satin finish that doesn't quite get rid of the larger belt marks on the flats of the grind, but is very consistent and even. The profile cominations ares are fantastic, the handles and blades fit together very well to make what feels like a finished thought out knife. The sheaths are very usable though simple.

overall the only thing I can really complain about is that they aren't made of a higher end steel. I'd LOVE to see either of these with a2 or 52100 heat treated by mike steward. But at around 20$ a peice, these things are unbeleivable deals. the finn wolf makes for a fantastic edc knife that does just fine at food prep duties, and the long hunter would make for an AWESOME camp knife. long enough to do some brush clearing, short enough to be easy to handle, light weight and with a blade to handle profile that makes it almost made for food prep.

these are light weight dirt cheap knives that honestly impress me at every turn. 45$ (after shipping) well spent.
 
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the reason I got these is because the finn bear didn't have a guard of any kind and the other knives (roach belly, canadian hunter, etc) all seemed to have low hollow grinds that were more severe then the finn wofl. also no gaurds :)
 
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and the sheaths. very simple, but functional. good for pocket carry. The finn wolf only weighs 3.6oz, and I can't imagine the sheath is more 1oz, so your looking at just over 4oz for the entire package. VERY light.

edit: apperently mine isn't quite up to par with other models, as the one I have isn't completely sunk into the handle. it's got a bit of exposed tang, but it's in there solid enough.
http://www.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/coldsteel/images/36ps.jpg
 
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Thanks for the Review. Might have to get one, although Mora knives are a better value.

value is only relative to what you want. from what I've seen mora knives are consistently 3/32" thick with low puukko style saber grinds. on the classic mora at rc61 I could see it being nice and stiff, and having a wear resistant edge, but with the rest I question how stiff the blade is and in general can't stand that type of low grind. unless the knife is sub 1/16" thick, I want my grinds high. mora can't provide me that, but cold steel can at the moment. so for me, cold steel is a better value because mora isn't an option.
 
value is only relative to what you want. from what I've seen mora knives are consistently 3/32" thick with low puukko style saber grinds.

I'm retarded, the cold steel's are also 3/32". I'll have to see if I can find a mora thats a higher saber then normal then...

Edit: just bought one of the laminated carbon core mora's from ragweed forge, one of the ones where they say the core is rc61-62. it will be interesting to see how it compares, since they are in the exact same price range...

Double Edit: I asked ragweed if he could switch out the laminated s-1 for a single finger gaurd non-laminated #612. after reading cliffs reviews of the laminated version not having high wear resistence compared to other lower hardness blades, and the discription from ragnar about them being much more flexible because of the lamination - the #612 just sounded a lot more appealing.
 
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The Finn Wolf looks like a straight copy of the Fiskars puukko sold in the 1980s before they stopped making them. IIRC, patents only last 17 years so I wouldn't be surprised if CS just took a mold of the grip and made theirs straight from the Fiskars version.

To me, I don't like the Fiskars/Finn Wolf because it is too light, it just does not feel right in my hand. Feels like it needs a little more 'heft' to it.
 
The Finn Wolf looks like a straight copy of the Fiskars puukko sold in the 1980s before they stopped making them. IIRC, patents only last 17 years so I wouldn't be surprised if CS just took a mold of the grip and made theirs straight from the Fiskars version.

To me, I don't like the Fiskars/Finn Wolf because it is too light, it just does not feel right in my hand. Feels like it needs a little more 'heft' to it.

I find that I like the lightness a lot, it makes it much easier to carry in pocket and it's a very novel experience for me, since I'm used to the much heavier busse's. even though it's really light, I find that I can index the tip blind very easily. I can't wait to get the mora to compare, now that I know how much more similar they are then i thought.
 
Could you put a magnet up to the Long Hunter's handle and see how far back the tang goes? I posted pics of my de-handled Finn Bear a while ago, and it only has a little less than 1/2 tang (very similar to Frosts plastic handled Moras). http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=534179 On the Bear, this is fine, since it's a small, light-duty knife (and the tang though short is very beefy and well moulded into the handle). On something like the Long Hunter, I'd want something more substantial.
 
Could you put a magnet up to the Long Hunter's handle and see how far back the tang goes? I posted pics of my de-handled Finn Bear a while ago, and it only has a little less than 1/2 tang (very similar to Frosts plastic handled Moras). http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=534179 On the Bear, this is fine, since it's a small, light-duty knife (and the tang though short is very beefy and well moulded into the handle). On something like the Long Hunter, I'd want something more substantial.

the only magnet I have is the speaker magnet in my fender 112 amp, and that indicates that it0 stops 1/2 way down the handle. theres definitely nothing past the 1/2 way point, and I would assume that it's construction is very similar to the fin bears. Since my copy has the handle slightly farther down on the tang, I have even less handle molded around the tang then usual/whats meant to be there.

It seems that if you were to use the long hunter for more stressful tasks like batoning, the likely damages incurred on the handle would be an overall loosening, rather then an outright failure (as long as the tang looks like the one on the finn bear). and if the handle did break, having the 2 holes pre-drilled would make it a little easier to rehandle in a 2 slab method, and would make it equally secure in a redone hidden tang epoxy filled type handle.
 
That's a good review, LVC.

Though, I do wonder if it's a sign of the apocalypse that CS is making products even Busse-lovin' can desire and appreciate.
 
Thanks, LVC. I was hoping they'd gone a little farther with the tang on these, but I like the blade shape and size enough (and the price is definitely right) that I'll go ahead and pick one up. A rehandle shouldn't be too tough. :thumbup:

edit: I guess I should say a rehandle if I have any troubles with the stock one. I'll just use it as is and only rehandle if necessary. Who knows, maybe the factory handle will hold up just fine?
 
Thanks for the Review. Might have to get one, although Mora knives are a better value.

mora vs. finn wolf:

overal size is about the same. the mora feels much more substantial in the hand, do directly to the type of geometry the mora has wich has more full spine thickness throughout the blade.
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The main reason I don't like mora's - any of them. because of their "scandanavian" style grind. This low flat saber grind is made less obtuse by it's zero edge, but to me its still thick.
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To give you an idea of how this grind translates into cutting edge - heres a pic of the difference between tips, and effectively the difference between grinds. The cold steel is waay more accute across the entire blade in overal geometry, even though the mora might have a slight edge 1/32" from the actual cutting edge.
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The mora is also lower on fit and finish. I got this from ragweed forge, wich is a great seller run by a great guy, so I have no doubt that this came from the factory like this. there is a section of edge in the belly of the blade that is rippled, and the flats dented, as well as the tip being blunted. It's surpising to see the edge rippled given the rc of 61-62, but it echoes cliffs review of the laminate version of mora's carbon steel.
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They say that the laminate version is considerably more flexible then the straight carbon version, but I don't see how anyone could call this flexible. the cold steel is more flexible (and the cs is pretty stiff) because of it's geometry, but both require a good amount of hand/forearm power to bend noticably.

I like the mora better in pocket then the cold steel, because the streamline sheath makes it a much smaller overall package, but for the geometry alone (And the lack of gaurd on the mora), I'd choose the cs any day of the week. Wether the steel will hold up to use is still questionable, but everything else about the knife puts cs ahead of mora for me. the mora is a beater, the cs is a slicer.

I got this particular mora (s-1) thinking that the higher rc laminate blade would be tougher and stronger then the normal straight carbon versions, but after reading cliffs review of one I immediately sent an email to ragnar asking to have my order changed, but apparently it didn't get sent through or substitutions like that are a hassle for him. so I bought another one, the 612, wich is the standard carbon steel, with a single finger gaurd. I think that I will like that version MUCH better then this one, because the lack of a guard (and the inherently distrust of the steel given it's rippling, and past reviews) will be addressed with the new blade.

this is the one I'll hopefully get on monday or tuesday -
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Funny, the reason you don't like Moras is the reason I like them- I like Scandi grinds.
I haven't bought a Mora like yours pictured because of the lack of a guard, as well. My Mora, the Swedish Army Knife, has a pretty good guard.
 
got the 611 today... I guess the 612 was out of stock, cause this is the slightly shorter blade version.

the standard carbon version is slightly thinner, and has a higher grind, making it noticably more acute then the laminate version. though the little tiny single finger gaurd may look and seems mall, it makes a world of difference. I would use this knife, where as I wouldn't use the standard version. at least, I wouldn't use it for any normal day to day tasks, I'd relegate it to food prep and other very controlled situations. the 611 standard carbon steel blade is much, much higher fit and finish then the laminated version. it's a better satin finish polish, the edge isn't dented/rippled, and the edge is thinner with the entire geometry being more acute. The top of the spine wasn't smoothed down, so you have some of the black left over from heat treat, and it's got a groove down the length thats caused by the large bur from the stamping or cutting or grinding process, but everything else is better.

and even though this is the most pure zero grind I've handled, making it considerably sharper then any box cutter I've seen (fresh out of the package), it's still an obtuse feeling geometry. with the finn wolf, you have to use the hollow grind portion when cutting food, otherwise it kinda binds/hits on the edges where the hollow grind stops. but that gives you some distance, like when cutting carrots it's easier to hold the carrot and do a circular cut, because you don't have to push the knife all the way through. But with the mora, the food gets shoved far apart immediately because of the low grind.

as a slicer I'd much prefer a full flat grind, because I really just don't need that much full thickness area on the blade. for a heavy user/abuser, I'd still want a full flat, or at least a high saber.

heck, I'd even much prefer a nepali style grind, where the broad area on the face of the mora would also be at an angle, like 5 for the flats, then 17 or 21 for the main grind, SOMETHING to reduce how quickly media is forced apart by the thickness of the blade.

with two versions (pretty much the same knife) from mora, I'm still carrying the finn wolf out of general preference.

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This is a great thread. Thank you for posting all of this. It seems to me that all the CS stuff that is out for less than $30 are good deals.
 
the other thing to note about mora vs. the cold steel's is that mora has a full length stick tang, instead of the short stout square tangs of cs.

the fighter series from cold steel really impressed me, you get a lot of steel for the amount you pay. I think they did a very good thing by introducing the new line of low end fixed blades.
 
Thanks for the review! I've been looking the Long Hunter over in my catalog, I like the look of it and the Western Hunter. I don't like scandi grinds either, and like the full or high flat grinds. These 2 look like they can really cut.

How is the edge retention? I've never tried this steel before.
 
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