Cold steel Finn Wolf and Long Hunter first impressions

Thanks for the review! I've been looking the Long Hunter over in my catalog, I like the look of it and the Western Hunter. I don't like scandi grinds either, and like the full or high flat grinds. These 2 look like they can really cut.

How is the edge retention? I've never tried this steel before.

I've only used it for food prep, so I probably won't really need to sharpen any of them for a good long while. I expect it to be like aus6a as far as edge retention is concerned. I don't really base that on anything technical, it's just a stainless steel from cold steel on a 20$ knife, so i'd expect it to run a little soft, but also be reasonably tough due to the softness.

I'm very curious about how I can break down the handle of the mora's, becuase both have exposed full stick tangs. the tang appears to be held in place by a half circle tube that is pushed in along side the tang at the pommel. I'm just not sure if I could just pull the tube out and then replace it when done, or if it has to be put in a certain way. it worries me that a carbon blade like this would have an exposed tang if it's not able to be dissasembled, and I know it is. just don't know how...
 
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Good notes on those blades, and appreciated.

Have you tried chopping anything with the Long Hunter? Not taking down an oak, but just light branches and brush, etc. I'd also be curious to find out if it would survive light batoning.

I thought the Long Hunter was the most interesting new release just due to the flat grind, I cannot tolerate hollow grinds.
 
Good notes on those blades, and appreciated.

Have you tried chopping anything with the Long Hunter? Not taking down an oak, but just light branches and brush, etc. I'd also be curious to find out if it would survive light batoning.

I thought the Long Hunter was the most interesting new release just due to the flat grind, I cannot tolerate hollow grinds.

this will sound dumb, But I don't have anything to chop here. I live in an apartment and don't really have the space for my normal supply of random tools and supplies. in about 2 months I'll be back in california and I'll have a garage again and more room to work with, so I'll probably revisit this thread then with a more up to date users review...
 
this will sound dumb, But I don't have anything to chop here. I live in an apartment and don't really have the space for my normal supply of random tools and supplies. in about 2 months I'll be back in california and I'll have a garage again and more room to work with, so I'll probably revisit this thread then with a more up to date users review...

Thanks much anyway, appreciate the reply. I'll have to wait and see if any local shops carry them so I can handle one.
 
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so, got to do some batonning with the finn wolf last night. I got to drive past this looooooooong line of fenced in houses that consitutes a church compound out in roy washington... I'm really curious what the name of the place is, cause it's pretty dang creepy seeing a half mile of pristene houses fenced in with wire and all for a half mile when your out in the middle of no where. so much in the middle of no where that people were fireing off shot guns at 1am... apperently to shoot possum.

the finn wolf did very well in my eyes, since my expectations for it (being cold steel, being stainless, and being half tang) were fairly low, reasonable for what it is. at first I used another log to hit the tip and handle, but it was difficult to handle them with any force and precision with the edges of the wood, so I switched to a 2' long 1.5" thick wooden dowell. the group I was with was trying to build a teepee style bonfire out of wet wood, so I was trying to spread the fire out from the base so the wood that was drying at the edges would get to burn, and they had no kindling otherwise.

having beat on the ricasso area of the plastic handle for 30 minutes with a wooden dowell, the handle did just fine with no visible damage, and the tang stayed solidly there without producing any wiggle or gaps.

The blade tip however did end up bending. I pulled the knife out on the one large knot I was working around everytime it got to it, and just splintered off what wood I had cut down rather then try to drive it through, but I was still hammering on the tip at an angle for a short bit each time I got to it. the result was that the tip was bent by as much as 10 degree's from where the taper started. I beat it back, and took some plyers to it and it's straight again without to much effort. The edge held up well, though it needs a sharpening now. I'm going to see if light steeling and a ceramic rod will be enough. most of the damage is at the tip, but I think thats because I glanced the rock I was working on more then anything the wood did or any inclusions in the bark.

The long hunter would have done much better, becuase it was longer and the tip isn't as thin. and being as thick, taller, and full flat, there is more supporting metal throughout the geometry, without the ridge at the end of the hollow grind to provide extra friction. so to answer the question, I would feel comfortable doing extended batoning with the long hunter, I'd just be careful while doing it, for fear of slamming the tip when it was at an angle.

I was using the fin wolf because it's the shorter, more sheeple friendly blade, so thats the one I edc. A drawback of the finn wolf: everyone thinks I'm carrying around a steak knife. Thats not necessarily bad, because people known steak knives, they don't think of them as "weapons", it's more like I'm so poor I'm carrying around a kitchen knife to do daily chores. But it is kinda demeaning having person after person comment "why do you carry around a steak knife?"
 
so, looking at this in my car during lunch today I realized that it didn't just bend the tip, it also torqued it a bit. so now the edge is leaning over to one side, even though the tip is inline. if I had a vice, I'm sure I could hammer it back in line...
 
LVC do you know what the width of the long hunter is edge to spine?

thanks!
 
An excellent review on some very affordable, yet very functional knives. In regard to the half tang of these CS knives, depending on what you are using it for it is a non-issue and will not effect breaking except under the most extreme use and abuse.

Secondly I am a great fan of the Mora knives. I say this not necessarily to the detrement of the CS knives reviewed here, but simply on the merit of the Mora itself. I find the carbon steel to be exceptional along with the laminated carbon steel. I do take exception with a previous statement tho, that the Mora's have a less finer edge than the CS's. I find this hard to believe since the Scandinavian grind is extremely thin on the edge and unsurpassed in slicing ability. The lack of a secondary bevel aids in the smooth slicing ability as it produces less friction. I will certainly reserve final judgment until I purchase one of the Finn knives from CS.:cool:
 
I've been happy with the Finn Bear for every day chores. The Krupps 4116 steel is ok, I think it's a little on the soft side, but it makes it very easy to touch up the edge. I'm tempted to get a few more of these to toss in survival kits and tackle boxes.

Jimro
 
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