Cold Steel Hold Out II

Been thinking that this would be a great waveable knife. Please post a pic of your wingnut mod Sosa. Thanks!
 
I never had a problem with the thumb studs getting lose but I'm sure it's possible. Blue loc-tite would do the trick. I think Cold Steel does this so you can use clamp style sharpeners.
 
The opening/unlocking problem can be resolved by leaving the knife open @ 90 degrees for a couple days. I've been lucky, and only had one knife with this problem (a Spartan) I recently aquired a Recon 1 XL Clip point in CTS-XHP, and the lock is smooth and easy to operate.
 
Just bought my Hold Out I. Was lucky enough to get it in AUS8A - can you imagine sharpening that 6" serrated edge in CTS-XHP in comparison? I'll post what I think of it once I get it.
 
Great recomendation! I will define try try this out after work tonight. I wonder how leaving the blade half way open (90°) would help the stiffness of operating the lock, but if it has to do with the spring, than I can sort of see the point in doing this since the spring can expand, allowing less force to be applied to the lock to disengage it. I tried to look into the handles, but I couldn't spot any spring. Its probably built in. Anyway, thanks for the suggestion and the responses to all.
 
Hmm... yeah, that's one big blade for sure! But I think the XHP is bit similar to the S30V no? I haven't had any hard time sharpening or maintaining the edge profile on s30v (featured on PM2), so I don't think it will be that hard to sharpen unless you allow the edge to get very dull (which in that case, just the sheer size of the HO1 blade on the folding knife alone would make it bit of a hassle depending on the sharpener you use).
Let us know how it goes! I think even an AUS of the HO1 size can be bit pain on the butt to sharpen it. But I am a amateur sharpener so...
 
쌍칼잡이;15834745 said:
Thanks! Yeah, I am loving it. By the way, are you Chinese? Taiwanese?
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I'm a mixed mutt. Little bit of everything.:)
 
sharpbear said:
Been thinking that this would be a great waveable knife. Please post a pic of your wingnut mod Sosa. Thanks!
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Here ya go. Stainless nut and knurled torx capscrew. A lock washer and a little loctite. It wave quite well. Doesn't tear pants as bad either. Capscrew head acts as thumb stud when not waved.
image_zps5ebpwt9r.jpeg
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쌍칼잡이;15834721 said:
Great recomendation! I will define try try this out after work tonight. I wonder how leaving the blade half way open (90°) would help the stiffness of operating the lock, but if it has to do with the spring, than I can sort of see the point in doing this since the spring can expand, allowing less force to be applied to the lock to disengage it. I tried to look into the handles, but I couldn't spot any spring. Its probably built in. Anyway, thanks for the suggestion and the responses to all.
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The "half open" method only helps with spring tension. If the lock is sticky, only cycling the action will help (other than disassembly and strategic polishing)
 
Sosa said:
Here ya go. Stainless nut and knurled torx capscrew. A lock washer and a little loctite. It wave quite well. Doesn't tear pants as bad either. Capscrew head acts as thumb stud when not waved.
image_zps5ebpwt9r.jpeg
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Bookmarking that recipe. Looks like something that I could add to a number of folders.
 
Kwon Kwang said:
Just bought my Hold Out I. Was lucky enough to get it in AUS8A - can you imagine sharpening that 6" serrated edge in CTS-XHP in comparison? I'll post what I think of it once I get it.
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Cool. Thinking about grabbing another simply because I will never see a deal like that again. But.....Having two of them ? Hard for me to see the point as I already have a lot of toys. Thinking about that 2 in the new steel now and then though........... Who knows.
 
The Hold Out seems a little harder to unlock due to the shorter lockbar. Anyone else see this as the issue? The stubby bar gives less leverage. My other Triads are no where near as difficult as my Hold Out I.
 
ceptor781 said:
The Hold Out seems a little harder to unlock due to the shorter lockbar. Anyone else see this as the issue? The stubby bar gives less leverage. My other Triads are no where near as difficult as my Hold Out I.
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I am a little surprised to hear that. Mine pops like oiled glass. Maybe having larger hands is a variable ?
 
Hard to open
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Have you tried loosening the pivot screw/ unscrew the threaded torx screw a fraction of a turn ?

I have the HO I and the HO III. Neither one was hard to open even out of the box. Mine are bare CTS-XHP. Maybe the black coating is dragging or gobbed up.

Hard to unlock
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If you take the knife apart it may become obvious where to touch a grinder to totally remedy this problem. On my HO I (the largest knife) I had to really press the unlock lever far into the scales of the handle to get it to unlock. Not a problem the first couple times but after frequent opening and closing fatigue and almost what I would call bruising of my fingers would set in (and I have callused hands from all day mechanic work) and it would get to be where I had to concentrate too much on closing the knife and or use different fingers to close it.

Once I ground an angle across that little corner it is easy to close over and over and does not compromise the strength of the lock.

surfaces that slide when opening the knife
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I found mine to be better polished than I expected. I had planed on taking a diamond file and then carborundum paper to mine but all I did was admire those areas and put it back together. I am not convince that even if these were just stamped and not ground smoother that it would make the knife much harder to open I just was going to do it out of habit and the hope of making the knife extra smooth etc.

Have you found areas that were rough and smoothing them actually made it easier to open?

Hard to sharpen large knife with CTS-XHP
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No problem. I recently ran the edge into a metal tool while cutting with the knife and dinged up the edge . . . ha, ha, but not as much as the knife dinged up the tool it ran into . . .

I used Shapton stones on the Edge Pro starting at 500 and the edge came right up to hair whittling in no time. The only questionable anomaly was that the bevels on each side of the edge looked even from the maker but when in the jig I had to use radically different settings on the jig to hit the edge. I haven't measured the faces of the blade but suspect they are not evenly centered on the back of the blade. I don't know how to explain that any better. The back of the blade and point are centered in the handle though. I find this to be true on most factory ground edges. I wish they could automate the sharpening like box knife blades are then I could, in theory, just chuck the knife into the jig and sharpen it brainlessly.
 
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쌍칼잡이;15827093 said:
Speaking of the Tri-Ad lock, wasnt there a time or certain versions had issues with the spring that keeps the lock in position? I believe it had to do with the spring deterioration over time/use.

Anyone had such issues with the Tri-Ad lock? I would assume its been fixed but who knows (if its even an issue now days). I do realize there has been spring issues on other types of locks as well, but I never broke a spring on any of my knives locks.
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The only spring issue I've ever heard of with regard to the Tri-Ad lock was with the Black Rhino, whose spring would work its way forward out of the slot in the back spacer. This doesn't happen in any other Tri-Ads, as the lock bars have a "step" in the shape that doesn't allow the spring to move forward. Here's something on the Rhino: http://coldsteelforums.com/Simple-Black-Rhino-Spring-Fix-m103604.aspx. Note the ramp shape of the lock bar. That was the issue.
 
Great feedbacks folks~ My H.O.II took about 3 days (upon its arrival)
for the lock to become smoother to operate. Don't get me wrong... although it eased up, its still by far the most ridged locking mechanism that I've operated. I've only broken liner locks in the past, which were featured on cheaper knives. So I know my usual tasks that I do with knives wont be an issue with this knife. I was bored last night so I taped 4 thick cardboards together and strapped it on a tree. I stabbed it 8 times bare handed and 8 times with the gloves that I wear often. The result was great. I had no slippage issue on the grip of the handle (with and without gloves). And the tip of the knife was just fine. I did however break the tip of a CRKT Drifter, doing the exact same experiment. Infact, I was reminded why I do not like solid steel handles for tactical usage because I did slip on the CRKT.
 
My HO II arrived over the weekend and I'm very pleased.
It is XHP w/DLC coating and green G-10, out the box it is super sharp and the grinds are even.
I wish the grind went back to sharpening notch and the lock harder to disengage than my HO III.

The smooth G-10 is very nice but I would of been ok with the grippy type too.
This is a great knife design and I can see myself getting a HO I at some point.
For such a simple design it fits remarkably well in my hand and the blade shape is very useful for me.
 
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