Cold Steel Recon Scout vs. SOG Seal Team Elite

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Aug 1, 2009
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Hey guys,

I'm wonder what you guys think is better, the recon scout or seal team elite. I'm looking to purchase a new survival/outdoor knife ( just retired my Ka-Bar USMC ) or if you have any other suggestions. my price range is around $130 bucks

Thanks,

Evan
 
If your looking for a high quality knife get the Gerber LMF ll. It has a partially serrated blade that is made to cut through steel.
 
Between the Recon Scout and the SOG you're talking about two knives about as different from each other as could be. Front heavy versus neutral balance, full flat grind versus dual saber, carbon steel versus stainless. What are you wanting to do with it? I know you said survival but that's a bit broad, as both killing sentries and building a lean-to could fall under this heading.

The SOG is patterned heavily on the old SOG Bowie which is first and foremost a fighting knife. The dual saber grind is really good at entering ribs without getting the edge stuck in them, and looks damned cool, but is extremely limited as a general task cutting tool. The Team Elite will cut slightly better than the bowie simply because it's a thinner blade stock and so the hollow grinds aren't so deep, but the geometry is still focused on stabbing rather than cutting, regardless of how sharp it is. Can it be used for utility purposes? Of course, but several others will run miles around it.

The Recon Scout is the more utilitarian of the two with its full height flat grind. I find that the factory edge bevel is adequate at best, but with a little thinning it can be turned into a very capable slicing, splitting, chopping blade. It's a heavy knife, balanced towards the front and this helps with chopping but gets somewhat tiresome if you're trying to be really precise with it. Definitely would recommend having a pocketknife around to handle the latter and let the big bruiser do big bruiser stuff.

The Gerber LMF II is decent enough but very different from the knives you're describing from a size standpoint. And no, marketing aside, there's nothing about its serrations that are any more capable of shearing through steel than any other serrated knife. Especially when you only have about 2" worth of teeth to work with.

I also highly recommend the RAT offerings. They're all about solid performance through excellent blade geometry and function rather than armchair commando cool factor. The RC6 is the largest they currently produce. You can also go the Ontario RAT route (RAT knives was once partnered with Ontario, though they've gone their separate ways). Ontario still has the RAT 7, which will have a little bit of a chopping advantage over the smaller RC 6, while still being a carry-able size. The Ontario RATs aren't built to the same fit and finish as the genuine RATs, but they're very solid working tools.

The Becker BK7 from Kabar is also an excellent choice in the size you're looking at. Yes, it is a saber grind, but it's a saber flat versus a saber hollow, and that coupled with the width of the blade makes for a cutting geometry that is still very utilitarian.

TOPS knives are of a very consistent quality and workmanship but are (and this is a long-discussed topic on these forums) kind of pricey for the range you've listed, and also tend strongly towards looking cool first and being useful second. Lots of fat saber grinds with swoopy curves, saw teeth and the like. They have a few patterns which are pretty performance oriented (with the sheer number of designs they have I think it was inevitable that a few sneak through) but unless one just absolutely drives you wild in a gotta-have-it kind of way, I don't see the reason to pay the TOPS price when RAT and Becker are out there.

Best of luck and be sure to tell us what you decide.
 
I'd definitely go for the Recon Scout. Had one a while back, that thing is a beast. And I know some knock the kraton handle, but it feels just fine for me. Better, in fact, than the squarish handles on the RC 6. Hard to go wrong with a FFG, too. And the steel is surprisingly good at edge-holding, and easy to sharpen (not that far off from the famed Carbon V, IMO). To echo T1mpani's sentiments, good luck, and let us know what you select.
 
Of the two mentioned knives,I would go for the Recon Scout.If you could find a US made CarbonV version,all the better.Have had mine since the early 90s and it has been a good knife.It's just a shorter version of a Trailmaster Bowie,also have,and shares the same blade thickness of 5/16".
 
t1mpani, thanks for all the info! I plan on being a Navy SEAL but I won't need a fighting knife until after I graduate BUDS. Someone told me about the spyderco Rock Salt and Hossom Forester, are those any good or are they just for looks? I am considering the RAT RC-6. I'm looking for a multipurpose knife that I can build a lean-to and chop some firewood, but be small enough that I can do some precision work with like building a nice snare or trap with, so basically carving or whittling. raindog101 I heard the RS's handle has some play in it, and that it can get pretty annoying, is that true? also can you do anykind of small intricate carving with it? not to intricate but things that involve making traps and shelters.

Thanks a lot you guys!!

Evan
 
Not to confuse matters but how do you think a large knife like the ROSARMS Taiga would compare with the CS Recon? They got some fairly decent prices on their website right now.

The only knife in this this size range that I can provide comment on is the son of dogfather (SOD) from scrapyard. Its one tough knife and a great chopper.
 
I guess im one of the few who recommend the Seal Team Elite.

Why? It is lighter, easy to carry, very corrosion resistant, and I like the nylon sheath setup.

BTW, if you want to be a navy seal dont worry about the "fighting" knife you are gonna need.

Go and exercise, alot. Get in the pool 5 days a week. Swim like crazy. Get very very comfotable in the water. Do alot of team sports, step up, and volunteer to be a leader.

They are gonna look for high levels of physical fitness, extreme comfort in the water and under the water, and a "can do" attitude with a refusal to quit.
 
I'd get the Recon Scout in carbon steel. I wouldn't mind having one myself. I have a SOG that I bought in the early 1990's because I thought it looked cool. The edge geometry on mine is terrible. Not just the edge but the grind leading up to the edge is super thick. It's not very useful as far as utility IMHO.

I don't have a Recon Scout but from the pictures, it looks like it can do the job as a camp knife quite well.

Just my opinion of course..
 
t1mpani, thanks for all the info! I plan on being a Navy SEAL but I won't need a fighting knife until after I graduate BUDS. Someone told me about the spyderco Rock Salt and Hossom Forester, are those any good or are they just for looks? I am considering the RAT RC-6. I'm looking for a multipurpose knife that I can build a lean-to and chop some firewood, but be small enough that I can do some precision work with like building a nice snare or trap with, so basically carving or whittling. raindog101 I heard the RS's handle has some play in it, and that it can get pretty annoying, is that true? also can you do anykind of small intricate carving with it? not to intricate but things that involve making traps and shelters.

Thanks a lot you guys!!

Evan

Generally I prefer replacing the handles on the heavy Cold Steel knives as yes, they do have a strong tendency to work loose over time, and also kraton seems to form blisters on my hand like no other material. Replacing isn't tough--it can actually be a fun project.

Both Spyderco knives are excellent utility cutters, though of a smaller persuasion than what you'd mentioned so far. Spyderco really has very few misses---they're a performance based company and I've never picked one up and said, "What am I going to do with this clunky thing?" Stainless isn't my preference in a big knife, but in a medium to small sized fixed blade it's absolutely fine.

Agreed on the exercise-your-ass-off recommendation. Back when I was in the Army, I had serious designs on the whole SF route and it didn't pan out. I hit a major plateau in terms of increasing my endurance, and basically just ran out of time. Tough, tough, tough :)
 
Yup, again I second T1mpani in that the handles can work loose, or so I've heard. I've had the good fortune to never have that happen to mine. Also I've heard the guard can be jarred out of position, but I believe this problem was an isolated one, limited to a certain run, I think in the first Taiwainese batch IIRC. But to answer your other question, the RS is capable of some moderately fine work, I've been able to notch and whittle without too much trouble, but obviously it doesn't excel at that kind of thing. I think it's a great all-arounder, I say go for it. Just be careful of rusting if youll be around water (I imagine you will!), it is a carbon steel blade after all.
 
Thanks guys,

I'm in a SEAL mentoring program so I do the SEAL PRT test 3 times a week, hit the pool 6 days a week, Row 7 days a week, I'm as athletic as i can be :D I'm prett torn between the Spyderco woodlander and the RAT 6, I think I'm gonna go with the RAT 6.

You guys have been awesome!!! thank you!!!

Evan
 
You're entirely welcome---do good. :thumbup:

P.S. And since you ARE going to be around water, a little trick for you---it's a good idea to always keep your edge clean (alcohol wipes are wonderous for this job, btw, although water will work if you wipe it dry afterwards) of sticky stuff between uses, fat, vegetable matter, tape, etc. regardless of whether or not your blade is stainless or non-stainless as it just helps them cut much better. Stainless, however, will have a bit of an "edge" *intentional pun* in edge holding in a very wet, salty environment as its edge isn't corroding as quickly, which also contributes to dulling. So, keep the edge clean, and keep a little tube of chapstick around (when possible) to coat the edge once it's clean before you stick it back in the sheath. Just creates a little wax layer, and it can make a big difference.
 
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Evan - good luck.
that's a tough program to get into, but the ones who can hang with it are the best.
on topic, since I prefer flat grinds, I'd vote for the recon scout or the RAT 6.
 
Thanks T1mpani I'll make sure I do that! all you guys have been a great help, for now I'm gonna go with the RC 6 cause of the flat grind and the warranty and because I can't be bothered to have to deal with the handle on the RS

1066vik, the mentoring program is the best thing, the PRT tests are hell but now because of the program I've improved a lot.

Thank you all very much!!!

Evan
 
The SOG is a bit more expensive than the Scout's that I have seen on the net. Scout's range from about $61-$114, but you can find great deals for them ( try mycornerstore.com or trueswords.com. Maybe even knifecenter.) This is of course in referance to the SK-5 version. San Mai III is a quite a bit more. As mentioned before, you should take a look at the offerings of RAT. Although they may be a bit pricier, they come with a life-time warranty, which is totally worth it. The Scout is also a bit longer, and, in my opinion, is made from a higher quality steel than that of the SOG, which is AUS 8. Overall, the Scout is the better knife, I think.
 
For 130 bucks you can get a RAT cutlery or Fallkniven, perhaps even a custom. That would be my recommendation.
 
Enjoy running the beach in Coronado. Assuming you're active Navy now, so good luck, and stay strong. My salute to anyone who volunteers for SpecWar training.
 
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