Cold Steel Safe Maker II - can I add a Black oxide coating?

A

agoutihead

Joined
May 5, 2007
Messages
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I have a CS Safe Maker II and absolutley love it.

But I wish it came in an all black version.

Without adding thickness to the blade so it still fits in it's kydex sheath, how can I get the blade black?

Can I send it out for a Black oxide coating? Or are there other options?

Who could do this for me and any idea how much it would cost on a smaller blade like this?
 
agoutihead said:
I have a CS Safe Maker II and absolutley love it.

But I wish it came in an all black version.

Without adding thickness to the blade so it still fits in it's kydex sheath, how can I get the blade black?

Can I send it out for a Black oxide coating? Or are there other options?

Who could do this for me and any idea how much it would cost on a smaller blade like this?
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I think you can probably get it blasted and duracoated, that would be pretty cool actually. :thumbup:
 
The tricky part will be the handle. Most at-home coatings require some baking, and you'd have to be very careful when blasting or the handle will get damaged. If you're willing to redo the handle, then sandblast it and use something like Brownells bake on coating.
 
me2 said:
The tricky part will be the handle. Most at-home coatings require some baking, and you'd have to be very careful when blasting or the handle will get damaged. If you're willing to redo the handle, then sandblast it and use something like Brownells bake on coating.
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Yeah that's one thing I'm worried about.

The handle is fantastic on this dagger and I really want to keep it.

There is no way to remove the handle and put it back on. It looks like it was molded/dipped on.

What about the Black oxide coating? Could the exposed SS part just be dipped for this kind of procedure while the handle is taped off?
 
You know if push comes to shove, you can have some handle slabs put on that thing after the coating is completed. G10 in an array of colors, carbon fiber, or even some Micarta would be awesome choices. I don't know that the knife has enough handle to have those things installed, but I'm sure it can be done somehow ;)
 
There are some industrial coatings out there that do not require any heat. However, they are quite expensive, and are generally only available in bulk quantities. The will also require sand blasting. Bead blasting is not enough. All the at-home coatings I know of (only 2) require heat above 250 deg F. If you can find one that doesn't require heat, you could try it.
 
if you like the cs safemaker2, why not get a cs safemaker 1 or better then the big daddy, safekeeper 1?
 
I would suggest checking out the brownells catalogue. I think they have a few coatings that might work, probably not very tough, but worth looking.

I suppose you could always look for an epoxy based coating, but that can get expensive if you don't already have a set up, and might not fit the sheath.
 
I've blacked out a couple of SOG Aus 8 daggers using spray paint. Cover the Kraton handle with tape, make sure you apply a grey primer paint then spray it flat bleck. It's surprisingly durable and easy to reapply if needed.
 
hmmm, how would anyone try "not to bake" the kraton parts?
i'm pretty much done myself in trying to figure out way how to permanently darken stainless steel part of a readymade knife without involving the element of heat...
 
Try spray on stove paint.
It sticks to stainless steel fine, and is durable - also resists high temps :).
I used it for my stainless stove pipe, and a scratched WWII FS dagger.
Both look fine, and the paint doesn't scratch off too easily
 
did once apply an aerosol of high temperature paint on to an all steel dive knive.
but it must however be entirely cured by heat, in order for the spray on to dry out.
must say that the finished surface looked almost professionally done,
if you don't mind me saying so.
don't know if all that direct flame ruined the blades temper though...
 
stickwhistler said:
Try spray on stove paint.
It sticks to stainless steel fine, and is durable - also resists high temps :).
I used it for my stainless stove pipe, and a scratched WWII FS dagger.
Both look fine, and the paint doesn't scratch off too easily
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Do you guys think this stove paint would be a better coating vs the grey primer and flat black spray paint?

Which stove paint is best?

Which grey primer and flat black is suggested for best durability & coating?

So is a black oxide coating out also? Or can that be performed without heat?

What about anodizing? I know it's a popular coating stele amongst aluminum, but how would it work on AUS A8?

Basically it needs to be a kind of coating that the exposed blade can be dipped in for this to work I think.
 
How is Black Oxide done, is it a process that I could have done to this knife with the handle still on it & not getting damaged or warped? I'd prefer to go this route over paint, but no one has said whether it can be done or not.

If not, I'll do a high quality paint spray.

Thrustus said:
I've blacked out a couple of SOG Aus 8 daggers using spray paint. Cover the Kraton handle with tape, make sure you apply a grey primer paint then spray it flat bleck. It's surprisingly durable and easy to reapply if needed.
Click to expand...

What paint should I use if I'm just using spray paint? Dupont or Rustoleum or something?

stickwhistler said:
Try spray on stove paint.
It sticks to stainless steel fine, and is durable - also resists high temps :).
I used it for my stainless stove pipe, and a scratched WWII FS dagger.
Both look fine, and the paint doesn't scratch off too easily
Click to expand...

Do you really think this is better than regular spray paint?

Does it put a thicker coating on it that would give it issues sliding in & out of its kydex sheath? It doesnt need a grey primer like regular paint will?
 
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