Cold steel voyager

m. wohlwend

m. wohlwend

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Apr 21, 2007
Messages
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Have any of you modified a Cold steel folder? if so what advice do you have? I like the size but it's built into a plastic handle. I would like to add liners to strenghten it.
 
Oh sure. I actually started out doing those because at the time I was a big Cold Steel fan. Most of those old models have changed or been renamed or outright discontinued I think but most of the ones like the Vaquero, Voyagers or GunSite knives are no different to me than rebuilding any Spyderco.

Also, a lot of the Cold Steel knives I redid were all done before I even owned a computer so I have no pics of any because I have not tackled any of those in a lot of years.

I'm game though if you want to take the plunge. And if you want to tackle it I'll take over if you get in over your head.

I'd suggest that just adding liners to the existing handles is a waste of time based on my experience. You are far better off to buy a sheet of green canvas Micarta or some other Micarta or synthetic and use some .040 or .050 titanium or stainless steel for the liners and go from there.

STR
 
Oh yeah. When I say sheet I mean like a 5" x 12" piece 1/8" thick. This way you have both enough material for those longer handled knives and enough to give you a margin of error in case you screw up one or both on the first try.

STR
 
I have several large blocks 4 inch by 4 inch by 12inch. two are brown canvas and two are mint green pheloic? I think that is how it is spelled. What about liners? what kind of material? I might need your help before its over. :D
 
I could probably get liners from texas knife makers, any advice when it comes to taking it apart? The handle has two flared pins in it so I am assuming they will be destroyed in taking it apart.
 
I must have added that after you left. Check the last paragraph of my last post.

Some 410 stainless would work but it won't be hardened when you buy it. A lot of guys don't worry much with that for just liners though, and only hardened it for locks a lot of the time. Not all but I've seen it a lot over the years.

I'd use titanium personally and you could even find that old thread on anodizing using 9 volt batteries in the embelishment forum and color them if you wanted. Anodizing is fun and easy to do with some basic materials.

STR
 
well it will be a few days before I get some supplies in, but I will keep you posted. I am sure the pins will be destroyed when I take them out, so I know I will need to add that too my list. Should I take photos? before during and after?
 
Its always nice to have some document pics available if for no other reason than to be able to see how the lock up looked before and stuff like that but its not necessary. I did it for years before I even knew what a flat bed scanner was.

You can order some of the "F5" barrels in 1/8" size and a TD608 carbide drill as well as some cut off wheels from Jantz supply and with a pair of vice grips hold the barrels after marking them to cut them to the proper length. You can drill some holes in a sheet of that titanium in a 3/32 size and shove the barrel screws through and cut those holding the head with a gloved hand also. Thats what I'd use over pins. You can certainly buy some nickle silver or brass rod or even stainless rod and do some peening also though.

STR
 
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