Cold Steel's Hawks?

Billy The Hungry

Billy The Hungry

Joined
Aug 11, 2020
Messages
1,711
Hi gang.

What's happening with Cold Steel's Hawks? Is the new company getting rid of them?

I'm strongly regretting giving my CS Hawk's away a couple years ago, now. Haha.

Thanks all

Bill
 
I suspect that the protracted shortage of them is tied to ongoing pandemic-related complications. It's very difficult for a lot of companies to get their hands on sufficient quantities of steel right now.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
I suspect that the protracted shortage of them is tied to ongoing pandemic-related complications. It's very difficult for a lot of companies to get their hands on sufficient quantities of steel right now.
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Hey Ben,

I was looking at your Rinaldi's. I want the American felling axe you have listed, but I guess it's out of stock at the moment?
 
For similar reasons. We have them on order but Rinaldi is having multiple challenges with supply at the moment. And my rep at Council said steel mills are currently quoting soonest delivery as far out as February.
 
Last new one (C.S. Hawk) I had in hand was to be a gift for friends younger brother. I typically make a few changes like Allen screw delete, paint delete, setting bevels at 15dps, fit haft to head, Shorten haft, remove varnish from haft and apply Whatco Oil, patina head, etc.

I will say, this last one came without the black paint, and the steel was well finished which was a nice benefit. But, part way through Shou Sugi Ban treatment of haft, noticed a shallow longitudinal crack in haft (made a wood dust & glue mix and packed and clamped it), that may require replacement in future (has survived 3-months so far, and have replacement haft if needed).

To my knowledge, the dies for the C.S. ATC Vietnam Hawk were sold to RMJ. So, assume ATC Vietnam Hawk has been deleted from the C.S. lineup. RMJ is NOT using the old dies (I read they were supposedly destroyed).
 
Spey said:
Last new one (C.S. Hawk) I had in hand was to be a gift for friends younger brother. I typically make a few changes like Allen screw delete, paint delete, setting bevels at 15dps, fit haft to head, Shorten haft, remove varnish from haft and apply Whatco Oil, patina head, etc.

I will say, this last one came without the black paint, and the steel was well finished which was a nice benefit. But, part way through Shou Sugi Ban treatment of haft, noticed a shallow longitudinal crack in haft (made a wood dust & glue mix and packed and clamped it), that may require replacement in future (has survived 3-months so far, and have replacement haft if needed).

To my knowledge, the dies for the C.S. ATC Vietnam Hawk were sold to RMJ. So, assume ATC Vietnam Hawk has been deleted from the C.S. lineup. RMJ is NOT using the old dies (I read they were supposedly destroyed).
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I really enjoyed Cold Steel's Hawks. Looks like the only ones available are the Viking Hand Axe and the Hudson Bay one now. The Hudson Bay pattern has my attention though.

Just a little side note, for what it's worth (not much haha) but I can't seem to get my Viking Axe as sharp as I normally can get a Cold Steel hawk. Usually I can get them shaving sharp without too much effort. This one refuses to do so. Bad heat treat on this one?
 
Billy The Hungry said:
... I can't seem to get my Viking Axe as sharp as I normally can get a Cold Steel hawk. Usually I can get them shaving sharp without too much effort. This one refuses to do so. Bad heat treat on this one?
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It would be my guess that you have not fully apexed the edge on that particular head.

As mentioned in my earlier post, I typically reset the factory grind much lower than OEM, to get them started with good working geometry (makes future touch-ups and sharpenings much easier throughout the tools life-cycle). The last one I did (newer version post painted finish), with the newer finish took a reprofile very nicely. However, this effectively means I spent zero time with the original edge and/or the outer most part of the steel (the factory bevels).

Are you attempting to match the OEM grind or set initial bevels to your preferences, and what method do you use to confirm edge has been apexed fully from toe to heal of bit?
 
Spey said:
It would be my guess that you have not fully apexed the edge on that particular head.

As mentioned in my earlier post, I typically reset the factory grind much lower than OEM, to get them started with good working geometry (makes future touch-ups and sharpenings much easier throughout the tools life-cycle). The last one I did (newer version post painted finish), with the newer finish took a reprofile very nicely. However, this effectively means I spent zero time with the original edge and/or the outer most part of the steel (the factory bevels).

Are you attempting to match the OEM grind or set initial bevels to your preferences, and what method do you use to confirm edge has been apexed fully from toe to heal of bit?
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Hello Mr. Spey,

Perhaps the edge isn't fully apexed. However, I have spent much time with a stone honing on the edge.

I judge an apex by sight and feel. It looks to be apexed to me. A reprofile does not look necessary. Of course I could be wrong!

Considering how thin the bit is to begin with, I would not think too much reprofiling should be necessary.

Seriously, it would look to only need a stone.
 
You'll want to start with a file. And the reprofiling would be of the edge, not the cheeks. The factory edges are always fairly thick and unrefined.
 
RE: Billy The Hungry said:
"... I can't seem to get my Viking Axe as sharp as I normally can get a Cold Steel hawk. Usually I can get them shaving sharp without too much effort. This one refuses to do so. Bad heat treat on this one?"

* My re-replies in italics.
* Please understand I am not being critical, judgmental, etc., only offering my thoughts based on what I read above, and my previous experiences in effort to help :-)

Perhaps the edge isn't fully apexed. However, I have spent much time with a stone honing on the edge.
* I have worked on a lot of blades (knives, hawks, shears, etc.) where others have "spent much time with a stone honing the edge.", to find an edge that is NOT apexed cleanly across entire edge. In my experiences, when folks spend time honing, stropping, etc., the results MANY times are apex being rounded off and QUITE dull. There are multiple kinds of tests for this (one example: is where edge is placed on a fingernail, at 20-30 degrees off vertical, and blade should bite and support the knifes (hawks, etc.) own weight with zero slippage). Cleanly slicing and then push-cutting printer paper and then phonebook paper are a couple more simple apex tests I use (somewhere within this range is when I expect a clean push-shave).

I judge an apex by sight and feel. It looks to be apexed to me. A reprofile does not look necessary. Of course I could be wrong!
* Generally, if an edge doesn't seem sharp (as you mentioned), it is not apexed cleanly in my experience.

Considering how thin the bit is to begin with, I would not think too much reprofiling should be necessary.
* Every Cold Steel hawk I have seen, or worked on, can benefit GREATLY from a reprofile (as FortyTwoBlades commented above and I STRONGLY AGREE "The factory edges are always fairly thick and unrefined."). At a bare minimum eliminating the secondary micro-bevel that I see on many CS Hawks.

Seriously, it would look to only need a stone.
* I typically destress the original edge (to remove factory apex), then reprofile to apex at 15dps as a starting point on every fresh CS Hawk (provided cutting performance is the goal of the tool). By the time edge leaves a 240 stone it is push-shaving from both sides of blade. A good sharp Mill File should be able to do most of the work if not set up for stones, and/or a stone can finish up after a file job.

* Understand, I am not saying the edge needs a reprofile to simply be sharp.
* However, I am curious if you know what the current edge angles are ? It could be that you have a REALLY obtuse factory grind (RE: my last comment below).
* A picture might go a long ways to assisting others to see what may be going on.

* I have not yet had a CS "Viking Axe". But, just photo'd a comparison (below) between one of my Frontier Hawks at 15dps (30inc) and a Viking Hawk (approx. 35inc). If you look close you can see on Viking Hawk that it is MUCH thicker/fatter behind the edge. I would assume the even larger "Viking Axe", you mentioned, would be even thicker than the Viking Hawk in my photo.

* hopefully something here of use to you ;-)


* Looking down bit from heel to toe, w/ bit inserted in a KELL gauge for comparative reference mentioned above.
CS FH vs VH-11280Wide.jpg

* Viking Hawk w/Blue tape, others are Frontier Hawks at various stages of completion. I am contemplating removing upper (toe) part of bit on Viking Hawk.
CS Hawks-1280Wide.jpg
 
Was gonna treat myself to a Trail Hawk, but there are no where to be found. I also have a Hudson Bay Hawk, which is heavier, but performs well.
 
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