Collapsible saw to pair with GB SFA?

soapboxpreacher said:
Sven Saw

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They make it in a 21" and a 15". I have one and it has a very aggressive tooth pattern. It will go thru lots of stuff very easily. I use this and a 6" knife to baton and it seems to fit the bill without needing an axe.
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I agree with this suggestion. I have the 21" version and it is a beast. Totally awesone and durable. I highly recomend it as a light-weight compact but full service bow-saw.
 
18" Sawvivor, Mine broke at the rivet and I replaced it with a nut and bolt, now it is better than new.
 
Out of curiosity, does the sawvivor use standard saw blades? I know the blades are of better make than chinese blades you'd find at hardware stores, but I'm wondering if they're proprietary and require special sawvivor replacement blades.
 
I normally use a 24" bowsaw for the kind of wood you are talking about and larger. While I haven't purchased one, I really like the idea of the Trailblazer because it packs down small, covers the edges of the teeth, and (if I remember right), takes normal blades. Also, because of the design, you have the full stroke length even on larger logs, unlike some designs.

Incidentally, on the frame packs, a regular bowsaw can be carried OK, it may be even better if you got an 18" or 21" one.
 
killa_concept said:
what exactly are the advantages over a collapsible buck saw for my proposed usage?

However, I see a number of faults:
1) There's the matter of your hand position being in a stabbing position rather than a punching one, which seems a lot less natural for a sawing motion and seems like it would fatigue you more easily if you're planning on doing a good bit of wood processing.
2) The folding mechanism seems like it would be more prone to breakage than a buck-saws.
3) Longer models that can cut 8-10" logs are QUITE spendy.
4) I've looked around and it seems like replacement blades for laplanders and silkies are 50-75% the cost of a whole new unit! And that's before shipping, which will be a necessary cost since they'd be impossible to find locally... whereas bucksaw blades are much cheaper and can be purchased from hardware stores.

I can see a folding saw being nice and handy for cutting a few 4-5" logs and doing some other bushcraft chores, but for sectioning out serious firewood, it's not seeming like a very viable option to me...
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I use a folding saw (a trailblazer folding saw) fairly regularly and I also concur with your points above. The folding saws are perfect for 4-5" logs and that is mostly what I use for firewood. However, going to 8-10" hardwood really requires a buck saw configuration in my opinion.

The ability to use two hands and change up hand positions makes them better on endurance. The ability to power stroke in both directions due to the tension also increases cutting efficiency and less chances of damage. I also use the 18" trailblazer take down saw and have had it for more than 10 years. Its not quite as functional as a full size buck, but there is also a 23" version of the trailblazer take down available at Lee Valley.
 
Like many people on this forum, I enjoy playing with cutting tools of all kinds. In my case, that makes me more of an interested amateur than an authority, so take the following for what it's worth. I purchased the 18" Trailblazer bucksaw a couple months ago. I think it's actually a nice tool. Personally, I'd much rather depend on a "bucksaw" design than any folding saw, but that's just me.

I'm not crazy about any metal frame saw (which includes bow saws) for Winter work just because it conducts cold so darn well. That's not a saw issue. That's an "I'm a sissy" issue. I've made a couple wood framed bucksaws (which is so simple a project, even an idiot like me can do it). The 21" saw I built many years ago is still my preference to any purchased saw to date. There are much nicer folding wooden bucksaws available from a variety of makers at a reasonable price. Do a quick Google search and you'll find them. On a purely aesthetic note, the folding wooden bucksaws "just go" with a nice axe like the SFA.

PC
 
JGON said:
It's the BIGBOY, and it has a 14.5" blade.

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JGON
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I have this saw and it eats anything in the woods. I wouldn't go anywhere in the wilderness without it. You kinda don't need an axe if you have one. It'll drop a tree pretty quick. And take it apart even quicker.

Silky all the way no matter what size you want.
 
There have been some previous threads that featured beautiful wood-frame bucksaws, both home made and store bought. I'm thinking of getting one just for the heck of it.

I am not pushing folding saws over bucksaws for larger wood but I will make one point in response to the question. The Silkys cut on only the draw stroke, so you are not using a stabbing motion per se. I have found the draw stroke to be more relaxing and less fatiguing that cutting with a push stroke. When you are cutting off a branch at or above shoulder level it is particularly easy. You just gently slide the Silky saw up, then let the weight of your arm and gravity do much of the work on the downward draw cutting stroke.

DancesWithKnives
 
killa_concept said:
Out of curiosity, does the sawvivor use standard saw blades? I know the blades are of better make than chinese blades you'd find at hardware stores, but I'm wondering if they're proprietary and require special sawvivor replacement blades.
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Not sure about generic blades but the Sawvivor ones are easy to get on ebay. PS I'd get the sheath as well it has sharp edges and needs to be covered in your pack.
 
Just my 2 cents, but I use a Corona folding saw on a regular basis and don't get the itch to upgrade to a more expensive saw. It burned through a 12" log in about 10 min. just the other day with no hiccups. Replacement blades are inexpensive and readily found just down the road.
Top one in pic (taken from another member's previous post)
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I keep a Wyoming saw III with my kit. Maybe not the lightest, but solid. Friends around elk camp have used them for years. Available in 3 (?) sizes. The III is the mid sized, 14 in.
 

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For day hiking I prefer a folding saw such as the Kershaw or Bahco pictured below.
If you're planning on processing huge logs a larger buck saw is definitely the way to go.

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Hey Killa. Not sure if you've already bought something or not but thought I'd add my 2 cents. I've been thinking about upgrading to a bigger saw for processing wood easier too. I have a Bahco folding saw but in is inadequate for serious processing and like you pointed out my hand gets fatigued quickly. So here's what I've decided to do. Buy some buck saw blades (21" for me) and carry them in some old water hose tube then make the frames for the saw in the field. Its super easy to make a frame and if you come up with a good one you can just keep it if you want.

Pros
- Super light to carry
- Super cheap and available (saw blades may run $5-$7 at your local hardware store)
- Fun (lets face it, we all get a kick outta making stuff with our hands in the woods)
- Much more efficient than the folding saws

Cons
- Takes some time to make the frame
- Takes a little talent development to make a good frame

Here's some links to some places with some instructions on frame building:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-an-Ultralight-Portable-Buck-Saw/

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/Make-A-Hand-Saw.aspx (not really for a field expedient frame but cool nonetheless)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80cqxYwNtLU
 
My 2c...

If you don't go for something like one of the big Silky saws, I too would recommend making up your own bucksaw rather than buying one of the commercial things. :)

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I am sure there are threads on here about doing so, there are also some on this UK site.
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18672
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42706

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The problems that I have seen with the triangular commercial saws is that they really restrict you in the size of wood you can handle, the frame can foul on the work very easily when trying to take full length strokes. Some of the folding bow-saws also use kind of weird blade lengths which can be hard to find. Maybe this is less of a problem in the US, but a lot of the hardware and gardening stores in the UK don't stock anything less than 18".

I was dubious about carrying a long blade in my pack, but once wrapped in webbing and coiled up it wasn't really any trouble, just had it at the top of the pack under the flap. A 24" blade works great and can still be used very efficently for smaller wood by pinning the frame to the ground with one foot, bracing the other frame end against the body and moving the wood against the blade with both hands.

The pictured saws use no nails and are just held together with pressure, but a more permanent frame would be easy to make up.
 
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