Collins with chip in blade

A

A Visitor

Joined
Jan 19, 2009
Messages
387
Should clean up with a file....No?
ry%3D400
 
I'll just add that I would soak it in vinegar for a couple of days so you can see the hardening line before putting in the effort. Otherwise why not. You could also take more from the top and then perhaps get away with taking less off the bit. Either way its a perfect candidate for modifying IMO.
 
A couple of thoughts FWIW.

I would also want to do this first
Hacked said:
. . . see the hardening line before putting in the effort. . .
Click to expand...

My other thought is to keep the balance front to back the same as the original.

24267476082_bd382881fa.jpg


It probably had a balance front to back at a point roughly at the front of the eye. Take the same amount of material factoring in the chip off both ends. My illustration shows a removal line B on the bottom, but you could take material off of the top or both. You might also reshape the poll to get the balance.

24267975682_9417edb27d.jpg


Bob
 
Yup. I usually hate seeing people chop up old axes because they usually use ones that are totally fine. This one, on the other hand, is a perfect candidate. No collectors value or historical significance, no practical use as-is, so yeah--go to town on that baby and let it rise like a phoenix from the ashes.
 
Thanks all, Some great advise to a post that I made sarcastically. Another "user" axe would be fine but redundancy on that need was met a long time ago.
I'm considering making something useful from it that I can enjoy more than another axe among the axes in the workshop. A lamp or coat rack, maybe a shelf like this one.
max-qwertz-yanik-balzer-ready-made-im-design-2.jpg
 
quinton said:
I did what, pegs outlined in less than a day, and used just basic hand tools to do it. That included a new haft made from a stave.
Click to expand...

Using my belt grinder, it would still take me a couple of hours to reshape the head and reprofile the cheeks so it would still cut well. It would take me several days if all I had was a file. A good hack saw would help a lot.
 
I dunno if that one is worth much effort...even if you re-shape it you might run out of hard steel once it's bevels are brought back. I'd say it's a wall hanger or other interesting use like you mentioned. It just seems like an absolute ton of work for not much in return (unless you simply just want and enjoy the project).
 
Depends on what tools are at your disposal. With cutoff wheels and a grinder you could get it back in action in no time. At the very least it'd make a good axe for work in conditions likely to beat it up, like chopping roots.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Depends on what tools are at your disposal. With cutoff wheels and a grinder you could get it back in action in no time. At the very least it'd make a good axe for work in conditions likely to beat it up, like chopping roots.
Click to expand...

Very true, too! That's a great point...root chopper at the very least as that doesn't really need a hardened bit. Good call.
 
There's probably still going to be at least 1/4" of good steel in it after modding anyhow.
 
You also have to keep in mind that the hard steel bit partly wraps around the softer core, so the vinegar bath could make it look like there's still some hard steel on the sides, but the center/edge is soft. I'd try reshaping the edge right in the scallop and then etching, to make sure it was still hard all the way through first.

Well, actually, I'd just pass on this one and find a better one for 10 bucks somewhere...
 
the possum said:
You also have to keep in mind that the hard steel bit partly wraps around the softer core, so the vinegar bath could make it look like there's still some hard steel on the sides, but the center/edge is soft. I'd try reshaping the edge right in the scallop and then etching, to make sure it was still hard all the way through first.

Well, actually, I'd just pass on this one and find a better one for 10 bucks somewhere...
Click to expand...

Although that's only if it's welded construction. If it's whole steel then it'll be hard in the entire dark region of the etch.
 
Feasibility of mig welding in a new bit on something like that? I'm thinking of trying it with some 5160 scrap, maybe cutting a puzzle piece negative or some such shape so the new and old have more weld area. Thoughts?
 
I'm aware of an Australian collector who has had a number of worn-out axes re-steeled.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Although that's only if it's welded construction. If it's whole steel then it'll be hard in the entire dark region of the etch.
Click to expand...

That's a good point, but with the shallow hardening steels commonly used, they can do the same thing to a lesser extent. The surface/cheeks cool faster than the thick interior, so the center may still be soft a little further down.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top