Comparison of how steels move under the hammer?

[weo]

Hello all. As the subject says, I'm looking for any info on how different steels move when making damascus to help plan layer count for patterns.
For example, my last 3 knives I've tried a 3 layer san mai pattern using 3 pieces of.070 15N20 (for .210 outside layers) and .125 middle layer of 1095. It seems like I got a more even pattern on the blades I did using only 2 layers of 15N20, with more dark blade compared to the nickle steel spine. This makes me think that the 1095 moves easier than the 15N20 making for a thinner core and less dark steel when using the thicker 15N20.
Thanks

 

[DevinT]

From my experience, from easiest to hardest to forge; simple carbon steels like 10XX and W1, W2, low alloy steels like 5160 and 52100, high alloy steels like martensitic stainless and tool steel, D2, 3V, A2, M2 etc.

Hoss

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Also, another big issue with forging high alloy/stainless steels is they harden every time they cool off.

Once I was trying to forge out a D-2 bar to get a wider blade and I swear I heard it laughing at me ... well, maybe it was me laughing, but there wasn't anything funny about it.
When I went to grind the profile and basic bevels in before HT it was hard as woodpecker lips. Took a twelve hour slow aneal to make it grindable.

 

[A.McPherson]

Ha! I thought I was the only one that used that saying!! Hard as woodpecker lips! Snicker!